I have a aruf036-00a-1a. When I turn the heat up the one set of coils warms up a little and the other not at all

Bleed screw, jeep liberty limited, 2002, 3.7 L, no heat - Fixya

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Nov 10, 2012 - bleed screw, jeep liberty limited, 2002, 3.7 L, no heat - Jeep Cars & Trucks question. ... Open Question ... Feel radiator and heater hoses, should be very warm to touch,if hoses ... Where is the location of the slave cylinder in a Jeep Liberty2005 ... Bleeding air out of a 2003 jeep liberty sport with a 3.7 motor.

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In this type of system (heat pump), the evap and condenser swap functions by means of a reversing valve, according to the mode selected. Evaps throw off cool air, condensers, warm air. In heat mode, the condenser is the indoor coil and it throws off heat from the outside air. Vice versa for the cooling mode. Heat Standby would be whenever the temperature thermistor has reached set point by the user and shuts down the system. Heat defrost is the cycle that reverses refrigerant flow and defrosts the outdoor coil by sending warm refrigerant liquid to that coil. In heat mode, the outdoor coil builds frost and ice on its surface.

heat wont go off? what does that mean? turn the gas off and replace the valves if they're broken.

Does the fan turn on when you have it set to cool? does the furnace still work? Does the fan auto, and on options still work?(for example when on its on, when auto, and neither the cool or heat functions should be running, the fan is off)? Basicly i'm asking your to test your thermostat right now.

What coil is getting cold? In cooling the evaporator coil should be getting cold not the outdoor condensing coil. Verify you have the tstat setup for heat pump, verify you have a proper refrigerant charge.

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It sounds like you have a heat pump. When you first turn on the system the heat strips will come on and produce warm heat (referred to as supplemental heat strips), as temperatures rise the heat strips will turn off and the "A" coil will just exchange heat to maintain temperature thus conserving energy. . Initially the temps will be around 125 degrees at the register, and drop down to about 105 after the strips turn off.

On some TXV controlled outdoor condensing units the Thermostatic Expansion Valve will stick in the cool position and require replacement this will cause this symptom. It takes several hours to do and requires a licensed technician to do as it involves recovery of refrigerants. I hope this helps

Try your ignition coil. That year model chevy has a dry running coil and it does not go out all at once. It will spark and run while cool but just as soon as the everything starts to heat up the resistance in the coil begins to build and it quits firing. After letting the vehicle set a little while and cool off it will fire off and run just fine untill it starts to heat up again.

your dryer igniter, and or coils are shot.. change the drop in coils first...

That's crazy, we're having the same problem.  Turns out there was a wattage restrictor in the furnace that was switching off 3 of the 5 heating elements in an attempt to save energy.  Basically, the restrictor was sensing that the incoming air was warm, so only 2 of the 5 coils should be needed to heat the air.  Well that wasn't enough and we just sat with the furnace running all day long struggling to reach the 70 degree setpoint. 
This is something a technician can diagnose in a few minutes, but not the sort of thing a DIY'er should really handle.

The first thing you need to do is fix the hole in the coil. It will only get worse no matter what you do. The reversing valve is controlled by the thermostat, then to the defrost board, as it has a timer, sensor and all that jazz. As to your question, that is a tricky one. The way I found worked best for heat pumps is to turn it to cool. If its so cold outside that it will not turn on because of an outside thermostat, cover the coil and yourself with a cardboard box or a large tarp. Give yourself some room of course, get a set of gauges that has temp. ring for R-22.Take suction temp. from the line about 1 foot from the compressor, look at the low side of the gauge and find the temperature, not the pressure for R-22. You should have a 20 degree differential. If more than 20, add freon, less remove. This sounds a little odd, but its easy to overcharge heat pumps on the heat mode. The condenser has a sensor that switches on the electric heat if the heat pump is not working. Ice on the condenser is normal on heat mode, that's why there is a defrost board.