Digital output through DAC static

What exactly do you mean by DAC (Digital-analog converter)?
As the audio core of this receiver is digital, it has an ADC for each analog input. Then it has one DAC for each analog output, so it has 13x DAC for Pre-out (11.2ch which are used also as inputs to amplified speaker outputs) + 2x DAC for stereo AV out + 2x DAC for stereo headphones.

There is no audio output socket to this TV. Audio input is there.
Gopakumar Gopalan Google

http://ca.asus.com/en/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1366/SABERTOOTH_X58/

Specifications;

Audio: Absolute Pitch 192kHZ/ 24-bit True BD Lossless Sound
- Asus noise filter
- Optical S/PDIF out port/s at back panel

http://www.asus.com/News/8krSWx1MniBbcCUI/

Ummm,....No.

10 Channel sound (?)
BD stands for Blu-ray Discs
192kHZ/24-bits True BD

The above is a 192kHZ sampling rate with a 24-bit sound output.
REALLY good quality.

However,

Realtek ALC892 is the audio chipset.

http://www.realtek.com.tw/products/productsView.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=28&Level=5&Conn=4&ProdID=284

"The ALC892 provides ten DAC channels that simultaneously support 7.1 channel sound playback, plus 2 channels of independent stereo sound output (multiple streaming) through the front panel stereo outputs."

Oh, 10 DAC channels.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital-to-analog_converter

(I learn something new everyday, lol!)
Regards,
joecoolvette

This is a link to the manual.http://www.haier.com/admin/en/product/upload/LT24M3-UM.pdf
On P.08 it shows the input and outputs. This television does not have a headphone jack. It has a digital audio output which is the SPDIF output.
To use headphones with the television you would need to get a digital to analog converter. Something similar to what is shown here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=180-998
You would also need a digital audio cable (SPDIF cable). They are about $15-$30 depending on where you get it and the brand.
You would connect the SPDIF cable to the television output and the digital to analog converter box (DAC), and connect the headphones to the DAC box.

You will probably need instruments (voltmeter, oscilloscope) to track down this problem.

At first I was going to suggest there is a fault in the audio buffer amplifier, but the only way that would be the case is if it is the bias circuitry inside a chip shared by both the left and right sound signals, or a power supply problem. The other possibility is the voltage reference for the Digital-to-Analog Converter (DAC).

How it works: the DAC gets the digital audio information from the DVD data processor. It generates an output voltage that is a fraction of the voltage reference value. For example, suppose the voltage reference is 2.5 Volts, and the audio data for the right channel is a 1 followed by fifteen 0's (half of full scale, which is sixteen 1's). The audio DAC should produce 1.25 Volts on the right channel. The audio DAC is almost certainly a dual channel device, and uses one voltage reference for both. If the voltage reference is putting out a very low voltage because it is bad or overloaded by another part, you would get the symptom you are having.

What to look for: identify the audio buffer amplifier IC (trace the circuit back from the sound output jacks). While a DVD is playing, use an oscilloscope to compare the input waveform with the output. You will probably have to search for and download the datasheet for the amplifier IC so you can see where the left and right input waveforms go in. If they are the same amplitude, or the output is larger than the input, the amplifier is probably OK. If not, check the voltages on the other pins on the chip to make sure they are correct. In particular, look at the voltage on the pin labeled "Vcc" or "Vdd" on the datasheet. It should be the same as one of the voltages printed by the connectors coming from the power supply board (give or take several tenths of a volt). If it isn't you'll need to check the power supply voltage with an oscilloscope to see if you have a bad capacitor. It is common for the first capacitor in a power supply filter to fail while the second one is good. This can produce a low voltage output that may still look like a clean straight line on the scope. However, for an audio amplifier, the result would be a low-amplitude, distorted sound.

If all is well with the audio amp, you will have to find the audio DAC chip. Start by downloading its datasheet and identifying the voltage reference input. Measure the voltage there. If the DAC has an internal voltage reference, look for a pin that provides this voltage externally.

Cautions: the laser in the DVD player can cause permanent eye damage if it is accidentally viewed directly. If the player mechanism does not have a cover built into it, put a sheet of opaque material (e. g., cardboard) over the DVD drive while you work on it. Keep your fingers away from the power supply, especially the high voltage section where the power cord comes in (often outlined on the power circuit board with white or black dashed lines, bridged only by transformers and several small parts). Get an anti-static wristband, put it on and connect the lead to the metal case of the DVD player. This is so any static electricity you build up in your clothing won't destroy parts in the DVD player. The transistors inside the integrated circuits, especially the data processor and DAC, are very delicate, and can be ruined by a discharge too small for a human to feel as a shock.

This is probably a "hobbyist" repair job. It's my understanding that this model is worth under $35, and most professional technicians want a minimum of $50 just to look at it. If you get lucky, you may find another unit of the same model that is no longer reading discs (try your local electronics recycler). You can swap the mechanism or main board with that unit to get one working (observe anti-static precautions with both parts - the laser circuit is also vulnerable to electrostatic discharge).

choondo

In regards to getting a digital output off your CD player there really is not any point in doing this. With standard CD quality you are not going to get any audio benefit from upconverting to a digital format with the player.

You would have to purchase a $50 to $100 Analog to Digital converter and then you are still limited by the audio output of the Luxman d-90 cd player.

So I would recommend that you just use your analog outputs. If you are wanting digital output for your CD player you would be better off buying a new CD Player that has digital output.

Also note unless you are wantling to play digital CDs that are in a DTS for Dolby format there is no need for digital output on a CD player.

Let me know if you have any more problems or questions

Issken
http://www.fixya.com/users/issken

NO. An RF modulator and your digital-to-analog (DAC) TV converter are 2 different devices. The DAC will convert over-the-air (OTA) digital television signals from your antenna to analog NTSC format so your older analog TV can receive OTA broadcasts. The RF modulator converts base-band video (composite cable/RCA connector, or S-Video cable connector) to channel 3 or 4, so you can watch video/audio on your set. To use both the RF mod. and the DAC converter to the same TV, use an A/B switch for F-connector coax, or follow the directions for the RF modulator to make the correct connections.

Hi,

I'm guessing you're asking about the audio specifically?

Xbox 360 has a digital optical output so your system would have to have digital optical inputs for the Audio to be plugged.

A coaxial digital input (as seen on some Philips Cinema Systems) would not work unless you use something to convert it.

Here is a link to such a convertor:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DAC-OC-Optical-Coaxial-Converter/dp/B0002MQGQS

Hope that helps.

There really is no point in  connecting the two components with an optical (=digital) cable, if you didn't want to use the SA-15s DAC- and analog output section you might aswell have bo bought the chiepest one you could find...

To get better sound than the SA-15s analog outputs can provide, you would have to spend a load of money (not as much as for the SA-15 but quite a bit) on a DAC - and the DAC would only work with CDs, you would still have to use the SA-15s analog outputs to listen to SACDs.

So in conclusion:
-Use the SA-15s analog outputs

-If you have other digital sources that you want to use - if you care about their sound quality - you can sell/return the SA-15s, buy the chiepest CD-Player you find (only look and feel matter) and spend the rest on a good DAC. (note: SACDs won't play on this setup)


I'm using a PM-15S1 with a DAC (Apogee Mini DAC, Studio-Equipment, nominal price ~1000$, got mine 2nd hand for 400€ ) myself. A DAC is usually the better choice over an expensive CD-Player - especially if you've got other digital sources (PC, ...) - but you'll probably lose a lot of money if you sell the SA-15, so think about it (IF you're still thinking about it, I realise that your question is 8 months old...)


anyway... have fun with the PM-15, it sure is beauty

Jan (Hamburg, Federal Republic of Krautistan)

Based upon your description, the most likely caue is the D-A converter chip inside the marantz. This is a relatively common failure. Replacing the IC should resolve the problem.

Dan