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The black foam seals are not doing their job anymore then. You may humidify them with a paper towel for a quick but it won't last. The vacuum sealer is expected to reach a certain level before automatically sealing it.
There is foam replacments available through ebay and amazon.
would be nice if you mentioned the transmission type
for both manual and automatic , the box has to come out
for manuals the reason seals leak are
worn seal or groove on shaft
input shaft bearing failure
for automatics it is torque converter shaft and pump seals failed
check for correct oil levels first as over filling causes seals to leak
not normally as it is in the timing cover case or behind the bottom sprocket or drive pullet for the timing belt
if it is a rear main seal it will require the transmission removal as well as the flywheel /torque converter
you were not specific as to which oil seal required replacing.
best get a workshop manual as that book shows the procedure to replace seals
IF it is a front seal on an automatic --pull the box . If a rear seal on an auto then remove the drive shaft and lever the seal out and tap in a new seal finishing flush with the housing all the way round If a manual box and it is a front seal the box has to come out and the clutch shaft housing ( bit the throw out bearing slides on taken of and the seal fitted in side at the end . IF a rear seal do the same as for the auto box.
Manual for this type of sump pump says: Quote from manual: Automatic float switch is sealed and factory adjusted for most home sumps. Turn-on water level is 10" - 12" above pump base. Turn-off water level is 4" - 6".
The manual also says that running the pump when dry will ruin the seals. This implies that the water level setting is set so the seals will not be damaged
You might be able to dig the sump deeper, but I don't know if that meets your objective.
if it is the front seal, you did not indicate whether manual or automatic, but the seal is generally 15-20 bucks, its the labour time that costs the most, my suggestion is if its manual, possibly think of doing the clutch at the same time, or if its automatic, having a tourque converter service as well
First of all, be certain that the leak is in fact from that seal. many leaks travel to that area.
To change the seal is fairly involved, you need to pull the trans and flywheel. There are some specialzed tools involved. Do you have manual or automatic? Manual requires clutch plate alignment on re assembly, by the way , if manual, be sure to change the release bearing and pilot bearing at minimum. Commonly it would make sense to change the clutch during this process....you're already all the way in there..
The oil on the spark plug usually comes from the valve cover seal or the spark plug tube. The valve cover seals to the tube and the tube seals to the head. The tube is usually a tight fit in to the head with a little sealant. The tubes can be purchased at the chrysler dealer or possibly at a local parts store. As for the red fluid,it is automatic transmission fliud . It is used in the manual transmission as well as the power steering system. You could have an axle seal leak, transmission shifter seal leak, power steering seal leak, depending on which side of the vehicle is wet.
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