Where is the fusable link for the starter located on a 1996 buick lesabre

the problem is that when i turn the key,,i get nothing,not even a click to the solenoid..i can jump the solenoid and the starter works fine.I have a book on the car and is says it could possibly be the fusable link in the wiring.I have been told that ther is a fusable link,and have been told ther is not one,all by mechanics on here. I have been told that it could be the relay under the dash.but the easiest thing to start with and the cheapest is the fusable link. the problem is that when i turn the key,,i get nothing,not even a click to the solenoid..i can jump the solenoid and the starter works fine.I have a book on the car and is says it could possibly be the fusable link in the wiring.I have been told that ther is a fusable link,and have been told ther is not one,all by mechanics on here. I have been told that it could be the relay under the dash.but the easiest thing to start with and the cheapest is the fusable link.

ok, that is the problem with reading rag books, Chiltoons, Hayness? (spelled wrong on purpose) they are full of lies. and mix 10 years of cars, i\'st toxic soup. stop using them, the correct book is called the FSM. a virutal FSM on like is alldata.com. it covers YOUR CAR and only YOUR year. and your engine options, when you ask any person, a mech, or what ever, we dont kno what YOU are driving,, nor what engine youhave or options. GOT PASSKEY? what size enigne , ok, that is the problem with reading rag books, Chiltoons, Hayness? (spelled wrong on purpose) they are full of lies. and mix 10 years of cars, i\'st toxic soup. stop using them, the correct book is called the FSM. a virutal FSM on like is alldata.com. it covers YOUR CAR and only YOUR year. and your engine options, when you ask any person, a mech, or what ever, we dont kno what YOU are driving,, nor what engine youhave or options. GOT PASSKEY? what size enigne ,

i posted the starter schematic below, did you miss that>? i posted the starter schematic below, did you miss that>?

do you have a volt meter, walfart $10 or better, that reads VOLTS do you have a volt meter, walfart $10 or better, that reads VOLTS

or do we guess 20 times with 20 parts and wire and connectors bad.? guessing really sucks but its popular here, lots of guessign going on ,even this silly forum engine guesses, and 99.9% wrong. sad to watch. see car wont crank, so change the gas cap. dah? or do we guess 20 times with 20 parts and wire and connectors bad.? guessing really sucks but its popular here, lots of guessign going on ,even this silly forum engine guesses, and 99.9% wrong. sad to watch. see car wont crank, so change the gas cap. dah?

my post is real, its based on the schematic posted. if you want to fix this fast use a voltmeter at the starter solenoid relay pins. measure all 4 pins, cranking 1 at a time. and BAM , the truth. will set you free. my post is real, its based on the schematic posted. if you want to fix this fast use a voltmeter at the starter solenoid relay pins. measure all 4 pins, cranking 1 at a time. and BAM , the truth. will set you free.

first be happy car is simple its not 2007+ car, with remote starts and computer activataed cranking... no. first be happy car is simple its not 2007+ car, with remote starts and computer activataed cranking... no.

look at the schematic below. see it . see those 4 pins, set meter to volts 20vdc range or autorange. black lead to car ground(body) the 4 pins are. A1,A2, C1 and C2. got that>?now with the red test lead touch C2, purple wire, it must be 12vdc (12.6v is charnged battery) (you are cranking with the key for each test. ok/) if not 12v on C2 that means the fuse is blown fuse 2E airbag/vats, see it? if the fuse is good that means the fuse CEL 10 , 60am is blow, if the fuse has 12vdc on both sides it iis good, so the ignition switch is bad, check the voltage at the 2 pins on this switch of C2 is dead, easy huh? so say C2 is good, i continue to relay A1, it must be 0v cranking if 12v that means the PRNDL is open(did you try neutral yet?) or thE PASSKEY (unhappy) did you look for the passkey lamp, is it unhappy? well its doing its job. the operators guide covers PASSkey . say you have 0v cranking with A1, I check C1 pin, it must be 12v cranking if not the igniton switch is bad or the 60amp fuse is blown, see it? lets pretend the A1 is 12v cranking, we are almost done now. we measure pin A2. it must be 12vdc cranking, if not the relay is bad., just 4 tests in about 10mins and bam, the cause. or we are very very close to it. the relay just allows the PASSKey to kill cranking. not posting the pass key status is bad news for us helpers. look at the schematic below. see it . see those 4 pins, set meter to volts 20vdc range or autorange. black lead to car ground(body) the 4 pins are. A1,A2, C1 and C2. got that>?now with the red test lead touch C2, purple wire, it must be 12vdc (12.6v is charnged battery) (you are cranking with the key for each test. ok/) if not 12v on C2 that means the fuse is blown fuse 2E airbag/vats, see it? if the fuse is good that means the fuse CEL 10 , 60am is blow, if the fuse has 12vdc on both sides it iis good, so the ignition switch is bad, check the voltage at the 2 pins on this switch of C2 is dead, easy huh? so say C2 is good, i continue to relay A1, it must be 0v cranking if 12v that means the PRNDL is open(did you try neutral yet?) or thE PASSKEY (unhappy) did you look for the passkey lamp, is it unhappy? well its doing its job. the operators guide covers PASSkey . say you have 0v cranking with A1, I check C1 pin, it must be 12v cranking if not the igniton switch is bad or the 60amp fuse is blown, see it? lets pretend the A1 is 12v cranking, we are almost done now. we measure pin A2. it must be 12vdc cranking, if not the relay is bad., just 4 tests in about 10mins and bam, the cause. or we are very very close to it. the relay just allows the PASSKey to kill cranking. not posting the pass key status is bad news for us helpers.

did you even read the oper guide on pass key.? did you even read the oper guide on pass key.?

google finds this in 2 hits, google finds this in 2 hits,

http://www.vadengmpp.com/owners-manual/b... http://www.vadengmpp.com/owners-manual/buick/1996-Buick-Lesabre.pdf

356 pages, its search able, wow. !!!! seach pass-key (dash) 356 pages, its search able, wow. !!!! seach pass-key (dash)

page 2-15, see the starter block message,...???? page 2-15, see the starter block message,...????

then the next page, it says SECURITY light comes on.. is the lamp burned out.? see the self test instruction for this , same pages. then the next page, it says SECURITY light comes on.. is the lamp burned out.? see the self test instruction for this , same pages.

is this your car, or someone else's , see the 3min rule? do both resistor keys fail the pass light? the car came with 2 keys, lost one? we cant help unless all these facts are know. there is some odd time delay for restarts, if the PASSkey fails driving, their little secret. my guess, is you must restart in 1hr, or maybe 12 hours. Immoblilzers suck. the strand far more folks that any theft is foiled. bar none. is this your car, or someone else's , see the 3min rule? do both resistor keys fail the pass light? the car came with 2 keys, lost one? we cant help unless all these facts are know. there is some odd time delay for restarts, if the PASSkey fails driving, their little secret. my guess, is you must restart in 1hr, or maybe 12 hours. Immoblilzers suck. the strand far more folks that any theft is foiled. bar none.

the lamp also flashes, as a warning. does yours, all on the same 2 pages. the lamp also flashes, as a warning. does yours, all on the same 2 pages.

fues 1a is the passkey fuse. it is blown? on all cars made, checkfuse first. use a voltmeter. fues 1a is the passkey fuse. it is blown? on all cars made, checkfuse first. use a voltmeter.