Leaks oil and gas

You need several things for a running internal combustion engine:

• Air
• Spark (to start)
• Fuel
• Compression
• Lubrication
• Exhaust.

You've shown that you have a workable spark plug so far. Going from the above, consider as well

• Fuel. Bad / old / contaminated fuel. Clogged fuel filter. If it's a motor that needs gas/oil mix, does your gas have the right oil mix?
• Air: Dirty, clogged air filter or air inlet.
• Spark. Is any electricity making it to that proven-workable spark plug?
• Compression. For this one, the most likely problem (other than a toss-the-engine thing like a broken piston) would be if the spark plug is not tightened into the mount hole, allowing the air to leak out rather than compress.
• Exhaust. Most lawn mowers will have a spark arrestor on the exhaust to make sure you don't set a dry yard on fire with your exhaust. It's often overlooked in diagnosing two-stroke engines. Make sure it's not clogged or blocked.
• Lubrication. Is there oil of the right type, and up to a proper level on the dipstick. No oil equals way too much friction in the engine.

Good Luck!

DH

1. Heat dissipation, cooling and clogging of the lubrication system cause the diesel engine to overheat.

Blockage of radiator or pipeline: once the radiator and pipeline are blocked, the cooling water cannot circulate and the diesel generator will overheat.

Exhaust pipe blockage:When the exhaust pipe is blocked, when the diesel generator is running, the exhaust gas is not discharged smoothly, and some of the exhaust gas remains in the cylinder. When the next intake stroke is intake, there are more in the cylinder. Exhaust gas, fresh oil and gas mixture can not fully come in. When the spark plug is ignited, the flame propagates and burns slowly, and then burning time is long, forming a post-combustion. Parts that are in contact with gas, because of the long burning time, can not release heat, thus causing overheating, at the same time, due to the unsmooth exhaust gas emissions, the exhaust gas temperature rises significantly when exhausting, and the thermal load of the entire diesel generator increases, causing the generator to appear overheat.

Oil filter plugging: Under normal conditions, the oil of the diesel generator enters the diesel engine through the oil filter. Once the oil filter is blocked, the oil enters the lubrication points of the diesel engine only through the bypass passage. In this way, since the oil is not filtered, it is easy to bloc the oil pipeline, causing poor lubrication, the oil pipeline is blocked, and the heat generated by the friction coupler can not dissipated, causing the generator to overheat.

Oil screen plugging: The oil filter is placed at the inlet of the oil absorber in the oil sump to remove foam and prevent large slag from entering the oil pump. Once the oil filter network is blocked, the supply of lubricating oil to the diesel generator is interrupted, which will cause dry friction of the friction coupler of the diesel generator, which will cause the generator to overheat.

2. The cooling system and the lubrication oil system leak, causing the diesel engine to overheat.

Leakage of the radiator or pipeline: The radiator or pipeline leaks. Because the water storage capacity of the diesel tank is limited, the generator will overheat.

Oil pan or oil pump oil leakage: The oil pan or oil pump oil leakage is mostly caused by loose oil plug or gasket damage. The consequence of the oil sump or oil sump leakage is that the diesel generator oil supply is reduced or interrupted. Since the diesel generator reduces the cooling effect of the oil, the heat of each friction pair of the diesel generator cannot be transmitted, so that the generator is overheated.
More information at this article: https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/diesel-generators/How-to-Deal-with-Diesel-Generator-Overheating-Problem.html

indicates flooding
possible gunk stuck under the needle and seat
have the carby professionally overhauled

Check to see if the oil was overfilled, or maybe stored in a position that allowed the oil to drain to parts that it was not intended.

P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Dectected
Possible causes - Harness or connectors (EGR volume control valve circuit is open or shorted.)
- EGR volume control valve stuck closed
- EGR volume control solenoid valve
- Dead (Weak) battery
- EGR passage clogged
- Exhaust gas leaks Possible solution - Clean EGR Valve
- Repair EGR harness or connector
- Replaced EGR volume control solenoid valve
- Replaced EGR volume control valve
Code P0171- Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 1 Possible causes - Intake air leaks
- Front Heated oxygen sensor may be faulty
- Injectors may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Mass air flow sensor may be faulty
- Incorrect PCV hose connection Possible solution Dirty air filter of faulty air flow sensor are common causes of the problem P0174- Fuel Injection System Too Lean Bank 2 Possible causes - Intake air leaks
- Front Heated oxygen sensor may be faulty
- Injectors may be faulty
- Exhaust gas leaks
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Lack of fuel
- Mass air flow sensor may be faulty
- Incorrect PCV hose connection Possible solution Dirty air filter of faulty air flow sensor are common causes of the problem.

Sounds like you over filled it with oil. Only reason for oil to come out of these places.

There's a lot on any car that can cause loss in power.
A few of them are:
Mass air Flow sensor
Bad O2 sensors
Old oil or sludged oil
Bad Gas
Clogged catalytic converter
Loss of cylinder pressure or compression

I would start with the cheapest tests/fixes first
oil: if you haven't already and don't know the condition of your oil, change it. If your oil has sludge in it then you could have a leacking head gasket.

Next up, If your gas is bad fill the tank about half way and use lucus oil octane booster, and for a second half a tank pour in some seafoam engine cleaner. It will clean your fueling system, injectors, and pistons/chambers.

If those too don't help: get a compression test on the cylinders. Not expensive to have done, but could be expensive to fix if there is something wrong or the compression is leaking.

Next, go to a muffler shop and have your catalytic converter checked. A clogged or bad Catalytic converter may trap exhaust and keep it from exiting your exhaust system.
While your there you can have your O2 sensors checked.

If all of that is fine, replace the O2 sensors and the Mass air flow sensor. These components control the air fuel ratio. If they are going out your engine won't ever get the right amounts of gas and air to run properly.

It's a lot, but my general rule of thumb for trouble shooting any issue with a car is to start with the cheapest fix and work your way up.

Hello,
From your brief description I'm guessing a high mileage machine? or Previous owners have revved too much from cold?
It sounds like the engine is possibly breathing? the pistons and compression rings are worn so exhaust gasses and compression leaks past them and pressurizes the crank case sending oil out the breather, so the air filter draws it in.
If the bike is performing o.k. and you can live with it try a dribble/breather can? pop the vent pipe into a seperate container to catch it. Make sure you seal the hole in the air filter so contaminents can't get in. also the new breather needs air circulation so trial and error on a recepticle.
Good Luck!
Paul 'W' U.K.

Definitely the carburetor. Take it off and look for something clogged. Look carefully at the gaskets. Look for water and dirt in the float bowl.

Ok. Black smoke, mean fuel system too rich.
1 of the problem related come if the car is hard to start in the morning, If is the case, you need to check the coolant sensor and the harnes,
But if the car start normally in the morning or when the car is cool. You need to check for air leak in the intake.
check the hose from the air filter to the throthe bady for crack.
pinched. If evrything is OK. you need a MASS Air Flow Sensor.