Binding adjustment need to adjust the height of the toe and the heel

In cars, you place vehicle 10 or 20 feet away from a wall and measure up from the ground with lights on and adjust the height and spread of beams to get a focal point. On your bike, I would find another bike similiar to yours and do the same thing. Just park pace out 20 steps heel to toe and make a mark on ground of front wheel and then mark beam height. Then take your bike and place it in same position and adjust accordingly.

More information please.
What happened in the past that allowed it to shift?
Have you checked the adjustment on the clutch?
Is your shifter getting stuck, binding or is it all inside?
I had this once on my Heritage after taking apart the linkage and doing a clean and lube. I tightened the pivot nut too tight so when I shifted to 2nd, everything just stayed right there.
Let me know the answers to the above questions, heel-toe shifter or just toe and model of the bike. I will see if I can help...

Normally we adjust the rip fence so that it toes out 0.10 mm over the lenghth of the rip fence. Some models have to have the trunion shimmed or the table removed/adjusted to achieve this. The toe out ensures no binding but doesn't effect the measuring. Note. adjusting the trunion is a large job.

brakes squeak and squeal when the pads become dirty, and their "toe-in" is not adjusted properly. The front of the pad should touch the rim or rotor first followed by the trailing edge. If it is the reverse then the brakes will chatter and squeal. As an example, stand up, look down at your feet, point your toes together and imagine you are rolling forward on your bike and your feet are the brake pads. When the calipers squeeze together, your toes should touch first and then your heels. This is the "toe-in" adjustment, thus the name.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

Did you ever figure out how to adjust the toe piece? I am having the same problem

You just need to remove the binding form the board and look underneath the binding. If it doesn't drop out by itself just lever the broken piece out with a flat head screw driver. Once this is done you can insert the new part screw on the cap strap

If you can adjust vertical pressure then you should adjust it as follows.
Put a piece of normal paper (like A4 printer paper) on the toe bit (and heel for that matter) and clip in the boot so that the paper sits between the boot sole and the binding base surface. You should be able to pull the paper out from between the boot and binding without ripping the paper, but obviously without there being a noticeable gap.
If in doubt take it to a ski tech, a bit of cash might save you a broken leg! They might even be able to help you or advise free of charge.