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Hmmm some times the counterclockwise screw that attaches the chuck to the drill come forward and that is how then it stucks the 3 parts that fix a drill to a chuck. Check if this screw come forward. If yes then destroy it and replace it... We destroy it by using a drill smaller than it (usually it is 5mm so we use 4mm bit and of course a CARBIDE one because even cobalt ones can not drill a hardened bolt)
You can do it your self stay away from the cordless drills get a carbide drill bit and a tube fill it with some water so it covers the peice of porcelain you want the hole in. Ihave know idia what a 2 or 3 tiered serving piece is. But if its made out of porcelain but if you have a high speed drill and bit and you can keep the peice cool you can drill perfect holes in it. It may take some time if the hole is 1/2 inch or more depending on how thick the meteral is put a peice of wood under the peice so you don't drill through the bottom of the tube. But small holes 1/4of an inch are much quicker to do. I dought you can find anyone else to do this for you And it sounds vary artsy but this how its done with tile and you can drill perfect holes in porcelain just go slow and steady and keep it under water at all times. good luck
There is no single answer that I can give you because it will vary due to material you are mounting to. If you are going to be mounting on ceramic tile or fiberglass shower wall I would recommend you use the plastic anchors that come with the bracket and mounting screws. Use drill size 3/16 drill holes and insert anchors. Mount bracket and screw in place. If you have hollow wall with nothing but sheetrock to hold the bracket I would get small butterfly anchors from hardware store and drill hole slightly larger than the wings on fastener when they are folded back along side the screws.If you have a wood backer board behind shower wall then drill holes with 1/8 inch bit and use screws long enough to reach through shower wall and sheet rock and mount bracket. Hope this helps you. Thanks P.S. If you have to drill thru ceramic tile you will need a carbide tipped bit.
Drill a hole in the top of the phillips head screw with a 3/16 th's bit. Don't drill the head of the screw off, just drill deep enough for a torx bit to hold. Take a T-30 torx bit and tap in into the hole you have drilled. Then turn the screw clockwise and it should come out fairly easily.
Unit Watts out (UWO) is their rating for the (presumably sustainable)maximum power output at the chuck of the drill. You can read about it..their explanation is basically technically correct.
Yes, max torque is related. The maximum power in a permanent magnet DCmotor system occurs at half the maximum speed when the system is loadedwith half the maximum torque.
1hp = 746 watts, DeWalt's DC900 36V drill is claimed to be 750 watts,close enough so let's call it 1 HP ok? Their max RPM is 400. So 200 RPMis the half-way point.
1HP = 200RPM*Tmax(in-lbs)/(24*5252)
Tmax = approx 630 in-lbs
The equation I used is known equation for relating power (HP) to RPMand torque (in ft-lbs..I added in the factor of 1/12 to account for thein-lbs to ft-lbs conversion).
By the way DeWalt make some bold claims about other manufacterers' drills.
For example they claim the 18V Lok Tor by Milwaukee puts out 390 UWOcompared to their DC988 model listed as 420 UWO. Yet I have readinformation from Milwaukee's own independent tests that claim the LokTor drills faster 2 9/16" self-feeds AND more self-feeds per batterythan that very DeWalt model.
This was posted on Milwaukee's Tool Talk forum (when it existed). Ibelieve the Milwaukee official said that DeWalt averaged 7.2 secondsper hole while the Milwaukee averaged 6.4 seconds per hole. I make beoff slightly but I do remember it was around a 1 second difference.Plus the Milwaukee apparently drilled 28 holes per batt where dewaltwas 25.
grind bits shank in a triangle to let the drill chuck get a better hold of bit but be carfule because this also takes away the drills ability to slip if it hits something solid.
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