Question about Refrigerators
Freezer working but fridge not working
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves not working
Posted on Oct 09, 2007
Ok, got it sussed! [well here's what I did anyway]...
Quite simply, I turned off the fridge-freezer at the mains overnight and in the morning, broke and chucked out the ice chunks that had lined up in the bottom of the freezer section and then turned it back on. I returned that night to see that it was working fine again! Hallelujah, I got my fridge back!!
So it seems that all it needed was a good long defrost, so far so good! I hope this solves your problem.
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
Try these solutions in these order:
1. Switch off the fridge and leave the door open overnight. Switch it back on in the morning.
Explanation: The sensor inside the fridge gets frozen and cannot control the temperature properly.
2. Switch off the fridge. Unplug it. At the back of the fridge (behind the unit, not inside) there is a large grid. Clean it with a hoover thoroughly. Open the fridge. Dry the back of the fridge if wet (inside the fridge). If frosted wait for it to defrost and then dry it. Plug in the fridge. Switch the fridge back on. This one worked for me.
Explanation: The dust in the grid deprives the fridge from cooling down and the unit can't control the temperature in the fridge section.
3. Switch off the fridge. -Unplug it. Empty it. Turn it upside down. Plug it in. Switch it on for 24 hours. Switch it off. Unplug, return to normal and switch on.
Explanation: This has to do with the pressure of the gas inside the compressor. I have not tried it but this advice as given to me by a qualified electrician when I commented the (in)famous F2 problem in Liebherr fridge/freezers.
Hope it helps. Regards. Albert
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
your freezer cabinet need to get all out and open the back wall.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 12, 2016 | Belling Refrigerators
Jul 05, 2015 | Belling Refrigerators
If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
Please check the link below for tips to remove the panels/parts:
Sep 08, 2011 | Refrigerators
Aug 23, 2010 | Belling Freezers
Sep 13, 2009 | Freezers
Dec 15, 2008 | Refrigerators
Nov 11, 2008 | Belling Refrigerators
Apr 01, 2008 | Refrigerators
55 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!