It's the sound of the guys who did the job not having checked their work! Bring it back and tell them to fix it properly...something is catching the window belt!
Please try your best not to use the window until it is repaired.
The glass or the "regulator" is hitting something inside the door, and that may break something, any time soon.
If the shop that fixed it won't make it right, you need to 1) take it somewhere else, and 2) don't use that shop anymore!
P.S. they should not charge you to "make it right".
SOURCE: window won't go up or down
our window regulator is driven by plastic pulleys and wire cables. They brake all the time. You will need a new regulator for the window. They are not cheap and it takes some kowledge to remove the door panel. It is not like the olden days There are no tracks to put it back onto anymore. Bmw has had numeorous failures when going to this design as well as other manufactures
SOURCE: Power windows roll down slowly
You can try a dry lube or lithium grease on the slow ones, but it sounds more like you need new window motors. Unfortunately Saturns are plastic cars, and... The window motors are not too difficult to change and it requires removing the outer door panel to make it easier to access.
SOURCE: 98 corolla drivers side window won't roll down or up well
I just repaired a 1999 Corolla (160,000 miles) window regulator with the same problem. I checked the motor commutator windings for shorts and the motor was OK. The brushes were still good. The motor is built like a clock - extremely well made with almost no indication of wear. Bench testing showed that the motor would not rotate once it had been run for a few seconds.
Elsewhere on the Internet someone mentioned a PTC Thermistor. This was exactly what was causing the problem. This is a special type of resistor "in series" with the motor that increases resistance when hot. It prevents the motor from drawing much current when stalled at the top or bottom of the window travel or in event of a jam, etc. The thermistor doesn't look like a standard "Radio Shack" part. By pulling off the motor top the magnets and commutator pull out. The PTC Thermistor is the two large copper plates separated by a silver looking material about 0.001" thick that are in series with one of the brushes. To fix, short out the thermistor. I tested with a small clip of copper wire. I made a permanent fix by soldering a jumper from one plate to another. During assembly, don't break the brushes.
The power window works great! I don't need an "electronic minder" to stop power to the motor at the top or bottom of the travel; I can do that. I don't intend to place my head in the window and push the button. If you have kids, this fix might not be for you.
SOURCE: i turn the key in the ignition, dash lights all, 92 grand prix le
Problem number one sounds like a dead battery to me. Problem with driver door is the cable in your window regulator is broken and bound up. Will need to replace the regulator. Passenger side window problem could be caused by a number of things... most common that come to mind are window guide not in correct position or one of the bolts that hold the window to the regulator has come loose.
SOURCE: 97 Accord drivers side window won't go up or down....
Window motors & regulators go bad every day. Pull your door panel, unplug the motor, if you have an ohm meter apply the leads to the leads into the motor. One will be ground the other two will raise and lower (reverse) the motor. If you show resistance between the leads the motor windings are good and the problem may be the window regulator. If you do not have an ohm meter, you can run two wires (one ground, the other hot) and test the motor by applying elec to it.
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