- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There could be several reasons why a humidifier stops running after refilling it with water. One of the most common reasons is that the humidifier's float switch is stuck in the "low water" position, which prevents the humidifier from turning on even after refilling it with water . Another reason could be that the humidifier's water level sensor is malfunctioning, which causes the humidifier to stop running even when there is enough water in the tank/
If you have a whole-house humidifier, it could be that the humidistat is set too low, which causes the humidifier to turn off even when there is enough water in the tank 1. Alternatively, if you have a portable humidifier, it could be that the unit's motor has burned out or that its fan has stopped working .
To troubleshoot this issue, you can try cleaning the float switch or replacing the water level sensor if they are damaged. If you have a whole-house humidifier, you can try adjusting the humidistat to a higher setting. If you have a portable humidifier, you can try replacing its motor or fan
There could be several reasons why a humidifier stops running after refilling it with water. One of the most common reasons is that the humidifier's float switch is stuck in the "low water" position, which prevents the humidifier from turning on even after refilling it with water . Another reason could be that the humidifier's water level sensor is malfunctioning, which causes the humidifier to stop running even when there is enough water in the tank/
If you have a whole-house humidifier, it could be that the humidistat is set too low, which causes the humidifier to turn off even when there is enough water in the tank 1. Alternatively, if you have a portable humidifier, it could be that the unit's motor has burned out or that its fan has stopped working .
To troubleshoot this issue, you can try cleaning the float switch or replacing the water level sensor if they are damaged. If you have a whole-house humidifier, you can try adjusting the humidistat to a higher setting. If you have a portable humidifier, you can try replacing its motor or fan
Try using WD-40 or sewing machine oil on the bit that the blades are independent from the motor usually just a small opening that you can try to spray some lubricant in there which will reduce friction and noise by lubing up the bearing and decreasing wear if that helps you will then know what the underlying issues are and if you need further action
The humidifier is designed to "pull" the air through the water panel. After it does the humidified air will re-enter the plenum on the side of the opening that it is pulling in from. Just keep the water panel replaced every year and you will be fine.
This may not be a solution, but a couple things you might want to look at. First, the humidifier may not be big enough for your house - just because a contractor installed it doesn't mean he sized it right. Second, humidity may only be 30% locally by the humidistat, but higher in other parts of the house - it depends where the humidistat is located. Finally, look at your hot water line - I'm surprised he ran it off hot water and not cold - seems like a waste of energy to me, but the feed line may be clogged by sediment from the water heater
I called the service company that put in my new furnace (FAmily Heating and Cooling in Detroit, very highly recommend these people)
Anyway they sent out a second service tech who determined that I would be better off having the humidifier wired to go on whenever the furnace fan was running instead of using the humidifier signal from the circuit board on the furnace. After he changed the wiring the unit runs fine. It is pretty likely that the circuit board was bad also.
I also had the transformer problem and it was made worse but an HVAC guy who rewired the furance fan to get more air flow when he installed a new AC unit. He left the humidifier wired to the old fan windings which were now putting out 160 induced volts. The humidifier transformer, which was already undersized by Honeywell, never had a chance. Not sure how common this problem is but I later saw several references to the same problem on other websites and it's worth a quick check of the supply voltage to your humidifier.
Since I had an expensive humidifier and a whole cut in the furnace duct, I looked for a fix. My solution was to buy a $15 transformer from a BigBox that matched the voltage and was oversize on amps and mounted it externally to the humdifier (much like a furnace transformer is typically mounted). I then completely removed the piece-of-junk humidifier circuit board and wired the transformer directly to the water solenoid which it controlled and wired the fan and new transformer directly to 120V that is controlled by a current sensing relay (Aprilaire A50) on the furnace fan wires (and also controlled by a humidistat located on return air plenum).
It has worked fine for two years now, runs only when the fan is on and when the humidistat is asking for more humidity. A relatively cheap fix that would have only taken an hour if I had done it right from the start.
For those of you who haven't bought the Honeywell 360A yet - don't. For those of you like me that spent the money and cut holes in your duct - this is one solution.
Maybe Honeywell will wise up and redesign their transformer PCB to be much more robust. The rest of the unit is a pretty good design.
×