Question about Dryers
I have a LG front load dryer model# DLE2020W and it is clunking with and without a load. Seam in the drum seems to be fine. It's 3 years old added video with sound
Is the 'clunking' noise new? Or was it always there?
Check manual for Troubleshooting; go to an appliance store and ask the salesperson. I would try YouTube, too.
Posted on Nov 27, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This machine has roller wheels in the front that are not adjustable, but rather need to be replaced if they have a bad spot or something. Usually what I see with a clunking noise(clunks once or maybe two quick clunks in succession) is that the dryer has been set down hard on the ground and has put two dents in the roller surface of the drum. To check this, just unplug it, pop the top off (3 screws in the back and tilt it up) and look at the very front edge of the drum. rotate the drum by hand (carefully so you dont pop off the belt) and look for any imperfections in the suface, such as dents. If you are getting more of a vibration type of noise, I would also suggest taking off the lower front cover then taking of the blower wheel cover located to the left side and checking that there is no lint built up in the blower wheel as well. Good Luck!
Posted on Dec 17, 2006
SOURCE: LG DRYER MAKING CLUNKING NOISE
Clunking could be from bad rollers or cracked drum. Check the drum seam for a crack. If its the rollers you can do the same thing as drum replacement only order the rollers. I got my parts from Sears parts. The below is for a 2514 but should be close for yours.
Ordered drum from Sears parts. 3045EL1002D
Cost of 85$ + 15 to ship. It came in 5 days.
Here is how to do it on a DLE2514W. Takes about an hour. I only used a phillips screw
driver. Take your time and look over the situation. I hope that I rememberd
everything. Good luck.
Dryer Drum Repair
Dryer Drum Repair
1. Remove L bracket with 6 screws at the top, rear.
2. Slide top back 2 inches to unlatch and remove.
3. Remove control panel with 2 screws at top, inside corners.
4. Carefully unplug 4 plugs from back of control panel.
5. Looking at inside at the top. Remove wiring bundle from 2 guides.
6. Unplug wire from dryer light.
7. Open dryer door and unscrew 2 screws behind door just below lint trap.
8. Remove 4 screws at top of front panel that holds the door.
9. Lift up front panel to remove. I couldn't get the door switch plug to disconnect
so I carefully rotated it an set it on top of the dryer.
10. Remove upper case bracket with 2 screws in front and 2 screws inside at top.
11. slide up a bit to unlock from sides. Watch routing of dryer switch wire bundle.
12. Remove lint trap duct with 2 machine screws. Carefully slide down to remove.
13. Remove front drum support with 4 screws attached to sides. Lift up to disengage
sides. Lift drum to free from rollers.
14. Observe how drive belt is routed around motor and tension roller. Push tension
roller up and release belt. Carefully take belt off and remove.
15. Almost done. Lift drum up at rear to free from rear rollers. Remove.
16. While your're there vacuume up dust and reverse procedure to install.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
I am diagnosing a similar problem in my dryer. Mine is a MDG4000BWW but the part catalog looks almost exactly the same. If you haven't done so already, make sure your vent pipe is clear. Since the air flow carries away the combustion gasses, there are safety switches to shut off the gas if the vent is blocked. If the vent is clear, take off the front cover by unscrewing the four screws that hold the door and door stops. The front panel should tilt forward and come free. The gas control is pretty straightforward. There is an ignitor that heats up and glows yellow. On my machine it is on the left hand side of the burner and is very obvious. If the ignitor does not heat up, that is probably the problem. You can confirm that the ignitor is getting electricity with a voltmeter. If you don't have one try the other heat ranges on the dial. It is unlikely that all the control positions would go bad at once, so if none of them make the ignitor work I'd recommend replacing it. If the ignitor works then a solenoid (electric control valve) should open and allow gas to flow into the burner. If the ignitor goes off without the burner starting, then the primary solenoid needs to the replaced. If the burner lights but does not stay on, then there are two potential problems. There is a flame sensor that detects the fact that the burner is on and sends a signal to a second solenoid to keep the gas on. It may be hard to tell which is the problem without a meter. My bet would be the solenoid. If the gas comes on properly and stays on for more than a minute or so, but then goes off and does not come back on I think you have a thermostat problem. There are two (on my machine) one to prevent overheating and one that cycles that gas on and off to maintain temperature. The high limit thermostat is to prevent fire if the cycle thermostat fails. All the parts are available online and range from about $16.00 to $35.00. Hope this helps - good luck
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
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