- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello,
Usually, it's the heater (resistance should be accurate), or a problem with the incoming power (not getting 240V) or a bad relay board. First, check volts to oven and then resistance of heater and then relay board.
Several things can shorten the life of bulbs. It could be a factory defect, the filament is receiving too much voltage,
physical shock while the filament is heated, vacuum leaks in the bulb seal or base.
Suggest try another brand preferably heavy duty.
i just looked up your model number and when you change a halogen bulb you should buy the bulb and socket or lamp assy. part 14-38-437 and that's the part the bulb plugs into you can't get it anymore,i just was on sears and repair clinic and it's unavailable
Are you buying hi quality oven grade lamps for this purpose that'll take the intense heat inside an oven? I wonder if they're halogen or tungsten filament lamps. Defective solder, frosty joints and/or ring fractures on lamp driving areas of a circuit board ARE indeed capable of causing problems with lamps.
bulbs blow from incorrect voltage in use or loose ground wires ( arcing out)
if they fail while the oven is on it is because the bulb construction glass is wrong
bulbs used in ovens need a special heated treated glass and are generally only available from the service agent
failing immediately on turning on indicates a bigger problem that the bulb so call in an electrician to test the system
The only charge for this information is your appreciation and continued future use of FixYa. The bulbs you need are known as "Pygmy" bulbs. The correct size for your model is E14 and is 15W for the top oven/grill or 25W for the lower main oven.
You can buy these in most DIY shops - all the sheds - Homeback, B&Q and Wickes - sell them as well. The best thing to do is remove the old bulb/s first and take them with you to make sure you get the correct one. If they've been in there a long time, it can be quite difficult to unsscrew the the bulb cover/lens.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if you need further assistance.
Your total FixYa bill is £0. Bulbs will be about £3-5 each.
I have a paper copy of the manual - if you need to know anything more than the information below post a more specific question.
The function symbols on Knob F, clockwise from the top, are as follows:
0 = Off
Lamp symbol = Lamp Only, no fan, no heating.
Fan + Drip Symbol = Lamp + Fan, but no Heating - this is for defrosting.
Fan inside a Circle symbol = Lamp + Fan + Oven Heating - this is the normal cooking position. The temperature of the oven is set on the Temperature Knob.
Final position = Grill. The temperature of the Grill is set on the Grill knob.
The red indicator light only comes on when the Oven is heating (not the Grill), and goes off when the oven has reached it's set temperature.
The bulb is 25W 230V Type E-14 300 Degree C.
The oven draws a maximum of 2300W so requires a 10A supply.
To change the bulb is quite easy, the glass lens screws off, give it a good soak and clean whist popping out to buy a new bulb, otherwise you won't notice the difference. Note the bulb is a special oven bulb, if yoo can't read the old bulbs rating it's probabily a 25W 230/240V rated for 300deg C - try Wilko's around £2.50
×