I am trying to install a Pass & Seymour Harmony fan speed control switch. It has 2 red wires and 1 black. I hooked up the power to the red line and the black leading to the wiring for the fan. No matter if the switch is on or off, there is power constantly on both the second red wire and the black wire. I haven't hooked up the fan yet, just checking the switch first. I reversed the power going to the black and the red going to the fan and it's the same result. I checked for power with a little device indicating if power is present. Is there always some power going to all the wires? I thought is was strange since one would think if the switch was off, there would be no power at all. I already returned one switch and the second one is doing the same thing. Is this normal??

The common wire is usually the white wire. Some switchs are only wired with a hot (black) wire. So not all switchs need a common wire (leg).

Copy following link to help identify switch and wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#PandS
Add a comment and describe timer and wiring in detail.
Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

If you look at the wiring in both boxes, you can usually figure it out. typically, you have one common at each end. This might be the red in your case. It would go to the light at one end, and be the hot wire at the other end. The other two are called travelers, and just go switch to switch. On the dimmer, the black would be the common, the two reds would be the travelers and the ground, the ground. In yours, the two blacks may be the travelers. You can try this hook up and see if it works.

You're right, green goes to ground.
Black wire connects to Hot wire from breaker box
Red goes to Load (fan, light, motor)

Ok which wire on the switch goes to the Load?
And which goes to Hot from breaker box?

You can test or you can simply hook up the device. If it doesn't work, swap the two wires.
It just won't work until the 2 wires are correct.

Found a .pdf file that shows LSDC163pwv ... it does not show wiring for LSDC. It shows wiring for other 3-way dimmers & separate wiring for 3-way fan control. This is a clue.

The Pass and Seymour download page does not load, so I can't see specific manual.

Let me provide what I know:
-Instructions might be confusing because LSDC works for both single-pole and 3-way circuits ... which probably adds a lot of extra wording in manual
-LSDC Device has single-pole/3-way dimmer (this requires 3 wires)
-Device has single-pole/3-way fan control with 3 speeds (which requires 3 wires)
-That's 6 total wires
-If I understand correctly, you just want to control a ceiling light? -And you do not have a fan? And your ceiling light is set up with 3-way switches.
-IF you are also wanting to control a fan in addition to the light, the box will need separate wires that go specifically to the fan >> your description shows that you do not have separate wires for the fan. Is this correct?
-Without separate wires to the fan, you can still control the light ... but if wires to light also turn the fan on-and-off, then the LSDC is not the right control since a dimmer for lights will not work on both fan and light.
To wire the light:
-You have identified black common wire for light (it is connected to dark-colored screw on 3-way switch)
-You have identified travelers that connect the 3-way switches
-The neutral wires seem to be twisted together at back of box.
-I think the dimmer is located on the top, and fan control is bottom?? Not 100% sure >>>
-Question: are there 3 wires that are associated with dimmer?
-If you can see 3 wires for dimmer, one of those wires should be black ... just hook that to common, and hook other 2 wires to travelers ... and see if it works. If not, keep connecting them until correct combination is found.

Tip- I read a lot of electrical part manuals, and when confused, I write out the instructions so it breaks down the information.

The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.

This is a 3-way switch, made to control a light fixture that is also controlled by another switch in a different location. A typical example is a ceiling light fixture installed in an upstairs hallway, which could be controlled by switches at both top and bottom of the staircase.

The green wire in your switch is the ground connection, and joins to the green insulated or bare copper ground wire in the switch box. The red wire is the common connection. It connects either to the incoming AC hot wire from the electric panel, or to the hot terminal of the light fixture, depending on the switch location. The two black wires are traveller connections. They connect to the traveller terminals of the other 3-way switch.

If you purchased this switch as a replacement for a regular single-pole toggle switch or dimmer switch - one that controls a light from a single location only - then this isn't what you need and you can't use it. You'll know if you have a single-pole switch because it will have only three wires or screw connections. Return it and get a single-pole.

To install this as a replacement for a 3-way toggle switch or dimmer, connect the red wire to the wire going to the common terminal of the original switch. This will be a black- or brass-colored screw on a toggle switch, or the different-colored (not green, that's ground) wire on a dimmer. The black wires connect to the wires that go to the traveller screws (copper-colored) on a toggle switch, or the same-colored wires on a dimmer. It doesn't matter which traveller wire connects to which.

Note that if you're using a 3-way dimmer, only one of the switches can be a dimmer. The other switch has to be a plain old 3-way toggle.

no- one wire goes to one screw and the other wire goes to other screw. It shouldn't matter which one goes where, just seperate.

Would suggest you contact the Pass and Seymour Div. of Legrand (France) and ask for the pdf file with the instructions. Your unit has a wireless function and must be work properly.