Direct Draw Error when I try to start Runaway 2 !

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The large MAXI fuses in the engine compartment fuse block are the MAIN fuses. They supply voltage to several other fuses or circuits.

MAXI Fuse #13 in your 1996 Ford Ranger is supposed to be a 30 Amp fuse (not a 50 Amp) according to the power distribution diagrams as well as the fuse block detail diagram. This fuse supplies voltage to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) power relay and to the oxygen sensor heater circuits.

Please note that it is NORMAL for this fuse to cause a draw on the battery during vehicle operation and also after engine shut down. The OBD-2 oxygen sensor heater circuit monitors run after engine shut down and key off. This can take up to 45 minutes to complete. After the O2 heater monitor has run, the PCM will go into sleep mode.

When the PCM goes into sleep mode, the battery draw from this fuse will be reduced greatly. If you are performing "ignition-off-draw" tests trying to figure out why the battery keeps going dead, it is best to use an ammeter that has a 1 or 2 amp scale. You should set-up for the test using a shunt bar. Wait for 45 minutes to an hour for all of the computer systems in the vehicle to go into sleep mode, then open the shunt. Your computer memory, radio pre-sets, clock, etc. will continue to draw without ever shutting completely off. Any draw under 300 Milliamps is considered "acceptable". It is my experience that most vehicles have an ignition-off-draw of somewhere near 150 Milliamps.

The underhood fuse box diagram can be found on page 314 in the 1996 Ford Ranger Owner's Manual.
If you do not have an Owner's Manual, you can get a PDF version HERE (direct link)

It is called Battery Thermal Runaway. You are lucky that the battery did not blow up. You need a new battery.

It is caused by the battery charging itself and gets to a certain point and starts to over heat, melt, and blow up.

The easiest way to find an electrical draw is to remove the negative battery cable and put a test light in between the battery post and the cable. If a draw is present the light will light bright, a dim light is normal. You can now remove fuses until you find the circuit that has a short. You should start at the alternator, it is very common that a diode will short out inside of the alternator allowing it to still charge, but also have a direct short.

That is not power straight they call it a dwell connection. The solenoid you described is the the mixture control solenoid yes it click after you start the engine it is part of your engine management, do you see 2 solenoid one will be a anti-dieseling solenoid that on turn off the fuel when the vehicle start and that solenoid is to help you shut off the car or it will stutter and shake as the car turns off. Okay back to the problem the wire you found does it have a plastic connector attached to it. if it does its to protect it from earth or ground we need to find its connection so it can stay running dont put direct power to it just yet that wire connection may be in some of the wrap harness feel for it it may be from the fire wall. if you cant find it post and ill draw the location or better yet ill try to draw were the source should be at

the alternator will not die in one day unless there is a direct short causing diode or coil winding failure which would give signs of smell, melted wires. Disconnect battery and give full charge. what year is this? while vehicle is running you should be able to briefly disconnect positive battery post connection and vehicle will still run if alternator is good. For a new battery to die in one day, one of two things i think has happened. Either the batt is faulty from supplier,( not likely but i have seen it ) or there is a direct draw or grounding taking place whether its direct in the starter selonoid or a direct draw through accessories. Are you sure all switches are off ? Push switches (on interior lights) nothing like dome lights,delayed lights are staying on! Does vehicle start hard like it almost needs a jump. If it has to be (and it takes time). to find out what is drawing the power ( i am old school) disconnect positive power source on batt. 2) disconnect ignition power source on starter. 3) connect pos batt wire to starter, 4) touch positive cable to positive batt post and look for spark or contact. if this reacts then selonoid or starter motor is shorted drawing the current. Or if you have volt meter and know how to use it, this is good to. If checks good then hook ignition connection back on starter.(disconnect pos terminal on batt prior to re-connect) I think the battery is having the life sucked out of it by a short in the system ( A DRAW ) this could be a quick find or fix or this could take days to track down. alot of variables here to try to explain. but i would seek into the starter first as usually this drains the battery quickly .

Remove positive cable from battery & connect a 12 volt test light between battery terminal & battery post. Anytime light is on, you have a draw on battery. Don't forget your stereo will cause a small draw all the time. Light will dictate how much draw, if it's bright, lots, if dim, not too much. If it' bright, and you pull a fuse & it dims down, or goes out, you've found circuit with fair bit of draw. If worse comes to worse, I always find it easier to make sure I know where they all go back to, then pull them all & start putting back one at a time, light will tell you where you have a draw, mark it down, pull it back out & try another, until you found all sources of draw, and recorded the brightest one(s) Now go from there with info you have. If you put one in & no light, you can leave it in. Good luck, at least it will isolate the culprit(s).

Chgeck for a short by installing a AMP meter at the neg battery terminal, if you have two batteries take one out of the system. After installing meter, with key off see if you have a draw, a small draw of .05 amps is ok, just the memory in the system. If you have a daw check components by disconnecting them ie... the alt. the glow plug and so on. Make sure both batteries are good one can draw down the other

If you connect a 12VDC test light in line, between your + battery post & + battery cable,(cable off battery obviously) the light will stay lit brightly as long as there is a draw. Keep in mind your radio will cause some due to memory function, clock etc. Pull stereo/radio fuse to eliminate that draw, then start removing fuses, and putting them back, watch light. If it dims, or goes out, you've found the source of your current draw. I have had to resort to pulling them all,(after making notes for anything I needed to remember about where they were) to get light to go out, then re-installing one by one & watching light. When it comes on nice & bright, note which fuse slot, and pull it back out and continue on, in case of more than one draw.

If battery good, ( you did have it load tested right?) you probably have some kind of current draw, your not aware of. If you have a 12vdc test light, remove ,+ battery terminal & connect light between battery connection & battery. If light is on & bright, there is definately a current draw when vehicle off. A small amount of draw will be present from radio/stereo memory. Start pulling & re-installing fuses one at a time, and when light dims, or goes out, you've found the circuit causing the draw, and can now isolate it to whatever is fused on that circuit. If no luck that way, make a map of where they all go, and pull them all, and start re-installing one at a time until light comes on, to isolate