I have a fantech air exchanger in my new home, what is the half inch clear plastic tubing under the unit, job.

I have the same unit. The drain line will be outside and is linked to the condensate drain on the outside refrigeration unit. It will be a black plastic or clear polythene tube a half inch in diameter. The bottom is probably blocked. A tech may be able to do it from the inside by blowing compressed Nitrogen gas down the drain. The case obviously has to come off which should be a quick job just 7 screws according to the video help.

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is it the original unit ? if so they fail .mine failed twice once under the 5 years cover then just outside .so i bought a better unit and replaced the speakers and added a small under seat ken wood sub .the sound quality is excellent if you have some basic DIY car electrical knowledge its a easy job to do just take ypour time many new head units come with DIN wiring so will fix on without any extra wiring you may have to add a live just take from cig lighter its easy to get to .there are you tube videos to help you ..the speaker that came with the car will need to be changed because they will sound poor with a new head unit .i used 6 and half inch hertz speakers and a 6x9 kenwood sub with an alpine head unit ..its very nice quality sound .

to bleed brakes is a relatively easy job for two people although it can be done by one without a pressure bleeder.NOTE keep brake fluid levels above minimum at all times during bleeding ( forgot to do it my self on more than one occasion and had to start over, trying to do too much at once) To do by your self you will need the correct ring spanner for bleed nipple, a clear tube that is a tight fit on bleed nipple ( long enough to reach down to floor) and a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it (glass jar will do it, is easier to see fluid level), Starting with the cylinder/caliper at rear furtherts from master cyl (longest brake line from tee piece) place spanner on bleeder then fit tube, placing other end of tube into container below level of fluid,. release master cyl cap/lid (no need to remove completely) undo bleeder half a turn, watch for fluid in clear tube. this should start to flow within 10 to 15 seconds (if bleeder isn't blocked with road grime clean if required), if fluid doesn't flow by it self (it should but) tighten bleeder then release again quarter of a turn, apply foot pressure to brake pedal, hold pressure on pedal till you feel pedal dropping towards the floor (half inch of pedal travel should be enough) ( fluid in container will stop air being drawn into brake lines when you release brake pedal) check clear tube for fluid/bubbles, open bleeder further quarter turn, if fluid has filled clear tube allow fluid to fill container a further eight of an inch, then close off bleeder (make sure no bubbles appear in tube whilst this is happening other wise drain more fluid till only brake fluid is visible in tube ) repeat process on opposite wheel cyl/caliper, then repeat process on front caliper furthest from master cyl , then the caliper closest to master cyl last. If two people are doing the bleeding the same clear tube and container are used,as is the order in which cyl/calipers are bled. One sits in the car and pumps the pedal until it has some resistance under foot (Whilst the pedal is held down) second person releases bleeder, first person keeps pressure on pedal whilst bleeder is released (pedal will travel towards the floor) when pedal has been depressed as far as it will travel second person closes bleeder before, the first person releases pedal and pumps the pedal again repeating the process until no air bubbles appear in clear tube at this cyl/caliper before moving to next cyl/caliper. good communication must be maintained to make this process hassle free

I would bet that the problem lies in what you said about the pad. It needs to be well-soaked for the evaporative effect of the unit to do its job.

You give no model, but if you disassemble the unit (only the top panel) at the water distribution tube and expose it you can see what's going on. Water flow will be minimal.

The tube disconnects from the water supply tube at one end.

Disconnect it and, carefully since it's plastic, clear debris out of the distributor.

If it's like mine, it will have a fair amount of scale built-up in it. Once clear, re-assemble and start the unit.

you correct these heat exchangers are either warrantied for 15-20 years on the units... but the labor usually is not.... been appliance/heating /and air conditioning business owner for approx. 10 years now and in the business a little over 18 years .. the heat exchanger labor usually runs around 600.00- 800.00 when we do these jobs under warranty... it requires diassembly of practically the entire unit in order to do it correctly... and that usually requires unistalling the unit and re-installing in order to get the job done.,,, if the unit is over 12-15 years old we usually recommend replacement ,but does not have to be the finally result... as far as changing it out i won't say it cant be done by a home owner it is alot of screws and like i said requires diassembly of the burner chamber ,combustion motor ,flue piing,gas valve,any safety switches and wiring in the way...the heat exchanger is located on the burner side of the furnace in behind all this is the burner tubes and a plate that has to be removed to gain access to the heat exchanger. it not all that difficult just time consuming... as far as a diagram or step by step instructions i am not aware of any available.. they do have instructions in the new heat exchanger that gives a brief description of what required and a picture or two on it... 5k seems a little expensive too... i am in the dallas /ft.worth metroplex and we charge on the average 3500.00 to install new furnace unless there is special circumstances or going to be a real chore requiring several guys... hope this helps good luck ....

Check the condensation tube (usually white plastic open ended PVC tube about an inch in diameter that sticks out of the unit). If it is full, this is where your clog is. This tube tends to accumulate mineral deposits over time. A one ounce shot of bleach should clear the jam in a few minutes. If not, try running a coat hanger down the tube to free the clog and add nother ounce of bleach.

You will be fine with 2 bends in an 8 inch pipe. If you bend it more than 3 times though you will loose fan force. If you up to a 10 inch duct you will not have good fan force because the space is bigger.

Good Luck and Please Rate FixYa!

Does it look like a box with four flex ducts or pipes coming off of it? if so its a fresh air/ heat recovery ventilator, supposed to bring in fresh air, keep in mind, the outdoor unit does not bring in air, it is just a pump to the indoor unit. that unit may be running independently, or wired incorrectly

No need to remove tank. I use an 18mm (i think) deep socket to loosen plug and slide a 8 inch piece of tygon tubing over the plug to screw it out. Insert new plug into the clear tubing to engage (start) the threads of new plug. Most hardware/home supply stores sell the clear soft plastic tubing very cheap. Take a new plug with you to get tubing that will fit snugly on the spark plug insulator. Tightend to specified torque setting and ride. Do not overtighten, as the aluminum head will strip easily.

Why even mess around with a leaky coffee pot? Just buy a new one theres a ton of garage sales if a new one is not in your budget. I noticed the same thing a little leak and as soon as it would start to brew....I also thought I was just spilling water around the heat plate. After a few weeks of wiping the heat plate I decided to invest in something enjoyable.
Bye Nicole