Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Front load Whirlpool dryer

The motor comes on and the drum turns once and stops. What could be the problem(s)?

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  • nouzrid
    nouzrid Dec 21, 2008

    You sent me 2 solutions, the first one was short and to the point. That's the one I posted a comment on. You'll find the link below.
    I clicked on the fixya icon and thought that was the rating button.

    http://www.fixya.com/support/t1398778-wh...

    The second one was rather long (the one above this post).
    All tho it would have solved the problem, I didn't rate it because 90% of the problems didn't pertain to my problem. To much info can and will over whelm folks and they get discouraged and give up. Thanks for the help and sorry for not rating.







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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 8,205 Answers

TYPICAL DRYER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS
"Typical dryer problems and solutions"
REMEMBER THIS: WHEN MESSING WITH DRYER PLEASE UNPLUG IT!
Top ten problems:
1) Dead:
If a dryer is not working at all thats not good! But it doesn't mean you need to go appliance shopping just yet.It may be something very simple like a bad door switch or even a broken door switch actuator,in a kenmore dryer there is a tab thats sticks out of a hole in the wall that allows the dryer to run only if the door is shut, other models may have button that protrudes out of the dryer and when the door is shut, this allows the dryer to run. These switches go out from time to time,also if a dryer is full of lint build-up over time this will cause the dryer high limit or fuse to blow. The fuse is located near where the blower is in most cases. When the air in the dryer gets way too hot the fuse/hi-limit will blow and the house wont burn down. 2) Runs but drum dont turn:
Usually this means the belt is broken,the belt may have just been old and worn out and it was time to replace it,or perhaps the wheels locked up or the idler and caused the belt to break. Look around for stiff wheels, bad bearings, glides and idlers. Its a good idea to oil the rollers with some temp resistant oil such as zoom oil. Dont use WD40 as this stuff is highly flamable and may cause a fire.
3) Runs but dont heat:
Ok maybe the heating element got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it may not be the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poormans meter. You can make your own poormans meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight ,thats right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lites up you have a circuit! You now have a poormans meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the little black thingies attached to the side of the heat element ,the door switch (when door is closed) ETC.should have continuity(closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poormans meter) If you come across any little thingie near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, well that a sensor, a safety ,(Now so as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thingie you check) where was I? oh yeah.It safe guards you from having to call 911. These things blow because of lint and too many clothes or blocked vent going out the house or all of the above.
4) Runs but takes a long time to dry the clothes:
Sometimes blower wheels will get loose in dryers. Sometimes they will get a whole lump of lint in them . Sometimes you can hear a rattling noise in the dryer, this is the blower wheel,its worn out and it can cause the fuse to blow too,or it can half *** work and take fifty forevers to dry the clothes.Or it could be just that the dryer needs a good blowing out .I use a lawn blower to get all the lint out of the dryer as well as the vent pipe and vent to outside. I take the filter HOUSING out and wash it also. That is, I remove the housing and clean is good! Making sure that the dryer is properly flowing air is a good thing!
5) Squeals,Scrubs,Squeeks:
All dryers have to have a way of allowing the tumbler(thats the thang you put the clothes in) to turn freely, not all of them are the same tho,some use bearings, some use slides,others use rollers. Over time these rollers will need to be oiled,the slides will get thin and start metal to metal contact causing a noise, The rear bearings will then start to make their way to china and cause the tumbler to rub into the heating element and OUCH! These things will cause the motor to prematurely DIE! Its best to examine the dryers, rollers, and slides when you first hear the noise, but who does?
6) Runs and never stops:
In all probability this may well be the timer motor has quit,and thus the timer needs replacing right? Maybe, but you need to first check to see if your dryer has a moister sensing system, If the sensor board contacts get corroded or goes caput, then the dryer wont know when to advance and shut off in newer models!
7) Runs for a few minutes then quits:
This is probably the motor going bad. The sensors wont cause this to happen. The start switch either, replacing all the sensors in the world wont make the motor be good again. But their is something you can do to try and make the motor last a while longer,their isn't any holes to oil the dryer motor so you must make some,using a 1/8th inch drill bit make a hole in either end of the motor where the bearings are(taking care not to hit the shaft) ,then add some hi temp oil such as zoom-oil,(dont use WD-40) and work the motor free as you can by hand . If this frees up the motor it may go a while longer. Also oil the rollers and check the slides to make sure they are not pinching and stalling the motor. If the motor can't reach top speed it will get hot,overload and stop.
8) Runs only if you hold the button down:
this is the motor trying to get up to top speed but it cant for some reason do it (see above). Some folks try and trick the dryer into staying on by lodging something in between the switch and letting it dry,but the sad reality is the motor is probably shot and needs to be replaced. The switch itself is not the fault, all it does is start the motor up and then the secondary windings in it take over, if the motor is dragging it will not switch over to the run mode, it soon will die anyway.
9) Runs but KEEPS blowing fuse:
Almost all the time this is because of a heavy lint problem some where in the housing of the lint trap. Keeping the lint filter housing clean will stop the fuses from blowing.THIS MEAN REMOVING THE HOUSING AND WASHING IT OUT THROUGHLY!
10) Runs beautiful at repair shop, dead at home:
This an electrical problem usualy caused by a bad breaker or a bad receptacle where the cord is plugged in,In fact bad breakers can cause you to have fits trying to figure out why the dryer wont work. If the dryer breaker is over 20 years old it may need replacing.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

2 Suggested Answers

TheMobilian
  • 8205 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool Front

If the drum is kinda hard to turn then you may need to get inside the dryer and yank out the filter first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on. VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel out of your way. Get the drum out and check the wheels and idler assembly. Some of newer dryers have a crappy sliding type idler. I replace that with a generic on with a wheel. I use high temp resistant zoomoil from the hardware store($2). You can also oil the motor if it is stiff but you will have carefull make some oil ports. The manufacturer does not provide any. Zoomoil works well in these motors. hey it might save you a few bucks. It is worth a shot.

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My whirlpool dryer front loading wont turn the drum i change the control board but still wont work .


did you check the belt to see if it's broke,the belt raps around the drum and the motor,when the motor turns on and spins the belt spins the drum.

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I have a Whirlpool electric dryer several years old (front loader) that just suddenly stopped working - the left side knob that you push to start stopped turning on the dryer. I have reset the breaker at...


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Sep 29, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Electric dryer will not tumble. No noise at all when top start/s


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck,
I hope this helps
Please do not forget to rate me
Thank you

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ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley. If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine. Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer. Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum. Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn. While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them. I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/ http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good luck, I hope this helps Please do not forget to rate me Thank you

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Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
First you will need to unplug your dryer from the electric.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would also recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
If the problem is not a broken belt then you have to motor exposed to do further testing, if the motor is ok, then check the start switch and the timer switch
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Oct 08, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Front loading whirlpool dryer won't turn, but you can hear what sounds like the motor running. The the heating element turns on.


This problem is commonly caused by a broken or loose dryer belt. Worse case scenario would be a bad drive motor, but you've already explained that you can hear the motor running. So, that would rule out a drive motor problem. You will need to open the dryer cabinet in order to verfiy if the belt is still intact. A visual inspection should confirm if the belt is still wrapped around the drum and tight. If the belt is missing, the only way it will come off the drum is if it breaks. You will need to replace it if this is the case.

If you need further guidance, please post back with your model number (located aorund the door opening) so that I may be able to provide better assistance. All dryers are not contructed the same and I will need to be able to explain to you how to open the cabinet. I hope this helps you.

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If the drum is kinda hard to turn then you may need to get inside the dryer and yank out the filter first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on. VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel out of your way. Get the drum out and check the wheels and idler assembly. Some of newer dryers have a crappy sliding type idler. I replace that with a generic on with a wheel. I use high temp resistant zoomoil from the hardware store($2). You can also oil the motor if it is stiff but you will have carefull make some oil ports. The manufacturer does not provide any. Zoomoil works well in these motors. hey it might save you a few bucks. It is worth a shot.

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