Electrical diagram for lincoln oven 1450

It's not a fuse issue.

This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.

The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or stuck in "night light" mode. Sometimes this will similarly affect the fan operation or inside light, too.

We see and repair this a lot. The problem is on the control circuit board.

You can have it repaired or replace the smart board yourself.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

Here's a YouTube video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes. Then...



Some connectors have a lock.

Then you remove the defective board and install the new one in your frame. Be careful, since the display is made of glass.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose or corroded connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron
- shorted high voltage diode

See the following help files on safety & disassembly and door switches.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

see this cuases and fix it. God bless you
Microwave Runs, but no Heat OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

If the proper voltage is coming into your control board and you are not getting voltage at the MW relay, then you need to replace the control board. If voltage is interupted by a thermostat or switch from your testing to the control board, then replace that part.Now, testing from the MW relay on to your transformer, high voltage capacitor, magnetron, and diode. Do not do any voltage reading from the secondary side of the transformer on, this can be a deadly microwave oven repair if you do not follow directions. This can result in electrocution and the "blowing-up" of your voltmeter, only do OHM testing with the power off and the capacitor discharged. Someplace in this circuit, usually before the transformer, you will have another thermostat to test. It is usually mounted on the magnetron. Do a quick OHM test to see if it is open or closed.
Now to test either the transformer, high voltage capicitor, magnetron, and diode, you must test each part separately. A good rule of thumb, if your capacitor is bad, change the diode also. Another note, if you are working on an OTR model and you have determined to be one of these "heating" circuit parts, you can not test these parts until you take the unit down. If you don't have the parts with you and you have to order them, order the magnetron, capacitor and diode and you will have a 90% chance of solving the problem. If it is an older microwave, order the thermostat also, most times you can return un-used, un-opened parts. Check with your parts supplier. This way you only have to take the unit down once.
To test these parts, scroll down this page and you will see a chart with component tests. Follow the instructions to find which part(s) are defective in your microwave oven repair.

please see the next topic:
Microwave Runs, but no Heat OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

see the next step and proceed with common sense: God bless you
Microwave Runs, but no Heat OK, get ready, this micrwave oven repair can take some time. This is where you must be able to read a wiring diagram and do some "live" checks on parts. First easy check is to make sure power is coming off your control board at the MW relay. Make sure of the wires and test here, if you have 120 volts at this point, you have ruled out a lot of parts that could be the problem. You have now ruled out any switch problems, control board problems, or a thermostat or 2.
If you do not have power from that MW relay on the control board, you must trace the wiring back to see if the proper voltage is going through your switches, any thermostats, and arriving at your control board. Your wiring diagram on your sheet will show you where and what to test. Below is a general switch test troubleshooting guide.

I would check the door switches or look for condensation damage on the control board.

In that case the outlet your using is pushing out too much electricity. Try calling your local electric company for help or a professional electric repair man.

I repair GE circuit boards, but the problem is not your circuit board.

This is due to a defective or loose magnetron causing electrical interference and disruption in the control circuit board.

If your magnetron was recently replaced, it may have loose mounting nuts or bolts or maybe the wire mesh RF gasket was not installed or got pinched.

It may also need a new high-voltage diode and stirrer, and the cavity may be affected.

Details are in their bulletin here. Even if your model is not on the list, the same problem can occur, requiring a kit. The parts kit is similar to this one.

(Your model may use a different kit - this is shown for illustration purposes only).

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
[email protected]
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

The most common suspect here is a shorted high voltage capacitor, since you say it blew the fuse right after Start, but I would certainly suggest checking the door switches and door switch mounts first. Just be sure you installed the right fuse. It would be a The switch mounts seem to break at about this point in the life of these models. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info (as well as a text file which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems) at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://www3.sears.com (the three is correct)