The unit is an almost new unit that I have had for three years and used only a few times. The engine starts right up, the blades engage, the unit won't move forward. I remember a home depot guy saying that it is a pin or something that is an easy fix? Not sure what he is talking about
I had the same problem with my 5HP Dual stage (C950-520240) Canadian model and found that the arm connected to the traction cable (part #85449 "Shaft Traction Clutch") which forces the friction disk up to the rubber friction wheel had a cracked weld and had bent, preventing positive contact with the rubber friction wheel. The drive wheels would turn if you lifted the back of the machine off the ground, but would not work if under load. First I replaced the belt and rubber friction wheel, but no go. I had to basically disassemble the whole drive assembly to find the problem, very frustrating because you could not see the crack in the arm from head on. I had the cracked and bent arm straightened and welded, all is OK now.
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Carb was probably bought in from a specialist manufacturer by the engine maker along with the ignition equipment and the maker of the snow blower in turn would have likely bought in the engines.
Few manufacturers bother making stuff for themselves when others can do it better and cheaper.
If you want it to be authentic I suggest you get in touch with Ariens with details and pictures of your snowblower and ask them if they have anyone there with a long white beard and a memory to match who could tell you where the carbs were sourced. It will be a matter of playing detective and following a line of clues.
If you aren't bothered about authenticity there are a number of generic replacement carbs that could be made to fit and jetted to suit and if it is a governed engine the governor could probably be made to fit too.
Your front end is jammed. Its either frozen or there is a rock or something jamming it up. Before you start engine reach down chute and turn back impeller that throws the snow out of blower. Should turn freely. when its free its fixed. You will probably need a new belt.
Something is jammed under the deck. If the engine runs good until you engage PTO, the problem is in the deck. With engine off, disconnect belt for deck from PTO, then remove deck and flip it over. With belt off try to spin blade. They should spin freely. If not, you have a bad bearing which are fairly simple to replace, just a few bolts. FYI, draw a diagram or take a picture of belt routing before removal, this will be good to refer to for installation of belt when your done. Hope this helps.
First I would take out the spark plug then try tugging on the rope. If no success take a ratchet and a deep well socket that fits the nut on the flywheel tighten and loosen the nut with out restricting the flywheel does the engine turn over? Does it move then stop after you loosen the nut? If it does then check the oil. If it is low or none in there then the motor froze up and needs replacement. If this was no help check in the shoot for obstructions like a newspaper stuck in the auger or the thrower.
Ignition key on, throttle three quarters on, full choke, press primer 3 or 4 times, pull cord. Should cough, maybe start and run rough, then as it's chugging, turn choke to half, then quarter choke, let it warm up slightly, then choke off.
Electronic Ignition was introduced on many engines about that time frame. I would need to have model and type numbers from the engine to fully determine that question. However, have spark is still the issue. If the unit has a switch installed on the operator's console, it should be disconnected at the engine so that any safety switches are not masking or causing a problem that is not engine related.
Let's investigate a few basics first.
a) How have you determined that there is no spark?
b) Have you used a type of spark tester? c) What is the condition of the plug. Brown or dark brown is OK. Black or silver is NOT Ok.
*If you do not have a spark tester,
a) remove the plug, and with it connected to the wire, b) find a portion of metal around the cylinder that you can ground it on, and then pull the rope. c) If the plug is black, you may see spark, but you should replace the plug. *** PLEASE NOTE ; if there is excess fuel in the cylinder or on spark plug, it can catch fire, so be carefull to cover the hole with a heavy rag so that any fuel cannot be exposed to spark plug durning test !!!!
Get back with me on how this issue works out. thanks, rwvanlue
Sounds like its flooded. This same exact thing just happened to me.
Let it sit with the the choke off. After a few hours, try starting it again, but don't mess with the choke (leave the choke set as if it was running hot). By your pulling of the recoil cord, you will be helping to clean out the flooded engine. Don not prime it during this excercise. (only pull the recoil 4 or 5 times).
Then let it sit again for a few hours.
After that waiting period, you should be able to start as normal, use the electroic start to get it going and lest it run, as normal.
First thing I would check is to make sure the traction drive belt didn't fall off or break. To do this remove the plastic shroud between the engine and the snow chute. The traction belt is the one closest to the engine.If it isn't broke Make sure it is on the upper and lower pulleys.