Grohe 33 330 fixture loose. Only 1 nut underneath countertop supporting fixture. Per Grohe 46 078 000 - Mounting Set they should be other o-rings washers etc. Please advise. Thanks John

Here you are - power rack & pinion.

Except 2.2L and 1993-96 3.1L Engines
See Figure 1

1. Raise the intermediate shaft seal and remove intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.
2. Remove the air cleaner and disconnect the pressure hoses from the steering gear.
3. Raise and support the vehicle on jackstands, then remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
4. Remove the cotter pins and nuts from both tie rod ends. Using tool J-6627 or BT-7101, press the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
5. If equipped with an Air Management pipe, remove the bracket bolt from the crossmember.
6. Remove the 2 rear cradle mounting bolts and lower the rear of the cradle about 4-5 in. (102-127mm).

WARNING
If the rear of the cradle is lowered too far, the engine components nearest the cowl may be damaged.

1. If equipped, remove the rack and pinion heat shield.

Fig. Fig. 1: Power rack and pinion assembly

1. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts, then the gear assembly through the left wheel opening.

To install:

1. Install the gear assembly through the left wheel opening and install the mounting bolts.
2. Install the heat shield.
3. Raise the rear of the cradle and install the mounting bolts.
4. Install the bracket bolt to the crossmember under the air management pipe.
5. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles, install the retaining nuts and insert new cotter pins.
6. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
7. Install the high pressure hoses to the steering gear and install the air cleaner.
8. Install the intermediate shaft seal and the intermediate shaft-to-stub shaft pinch bolt.

2.2L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
5. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
6. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near rear of frame including the brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hangers.
2. Remove the engine and transaxle mount nuts at the subframe.
3. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
4. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
5. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.

Do not lower the rear of the cradle too far, as damage to engine components nearest the cowl may result.

1. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
2. Disconnect the power steering lines from the steering gear.
3. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
4. Remove the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the exhaust pipe hanger bracket near the rear of frame including brake line retainer and rubber exhaust pipe hanger.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Remove the support fixture.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
15. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
16. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

3.1L Engine (VIN M)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine torque strut from engine.
3. Install an engine support fixture J-28467-A, or the equivalent.
4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
5. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
6. Remove the cotter pins and castle nuts from the outer tie rod ends and separate the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles using a suitable puller.
7. Remove the center engine and rear transaxle mounts from the frame.
8. Remove the intermediate shaft lower pinch bolt.
9. Disconnect the intermediate shaft from stub shaft.

CAUTION
Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or intermediate shaft. This damage can cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.

1. Remove the brace bolts and brace, including brake line brace.
2. Support the rear of the subframe with jack stands.
3. Remove the rear subframe bolts and discard.
4. Lower the subframe for access to rack and pinion.
5. Remove the steering gear heat shield.
6. Remove the clip holding lines at rack assembly.
7. Disconnect the power steering lines and O-rings.
8. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts.
9. Remove the rack and pinion unit through the left wheel well.

To Install:

1. Install the rack and pinion through left wheel opening.
2. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts and nuts and tighten the mounting bolts to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
3. Connect the power steering lines to the rack using new O-rings and tighten the fittings to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on the return line and 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm). on the pressure line.
4. Install the power steering line clip to steering gear.
5. Install the steering gear heat shield.
6. Raise the subframe into position and install new frame mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
7. Remove the jack.
8. Install the engine mount and transaxle mount nuts and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 Nm).
9. Install the brace and bolts including brake line brace.
10. Connect the intermediate shaft to the stub shaft and tighten the pinch bolt to 29 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
11. Connect the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Tighten the castle nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Install new cotter pins.
12. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Remove the support fixture.
15. Connect the negative battery cable.
16. Refill the power steering reservoir and bleed the system.
17. Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Probably a loose fixture nut under the counter behind the sink.
Yeah ya gotta pull out everything and crawl up into the cabinet on your back and see if the nut (right up at the granite, above the hot and cold inlet pipes) is loose. If it is THEN you'll need to tighten it. Wrench, slip-joint pliers or a basin wrench. (probably basin wrench which is a specialized tool made for reaching up into tight places)

Ok not sure what you are asking , but here it goes. If you are wanting to take off the sprayhead simply pull the sprayer out and unscrew. If you want to remove the spray hose from the bottom of the faucet simply grab the red spring loaded connector near the TOP, and pull down spring to release (kind of works like an air hose quick connect). If you want to remove the arch the hose must be removed from the faucet first, then simply jerk up on the arch to remove. When the arch is removed, there is a specialty tool that came with the faucet (which most plumbers keep) to tighten or loosen the faucet. Hope this helps. Luckydog

from underneath,may be really tricky to get a grip on you might need a basin wrench.

need to replace washer how to pull stem out to get to washer

looks like you'll have to remove it and examine it. Brass is a soft metal, I hope you've not stripped out the threads, Grohe is an expensive faucet. i fall else fails and the hreads are stripped out, I might try a tough adhesive caulk like a 3M 5200 marine grade. Apply liberally from the bottom. let it set firmly. Perhaps tape a piece of cardboard over the hole in the countertop from the bottom. this would keep the caulking from falling out before it sets. unconventional, but something to try before buying another $200 faucet. what have you to loose?

http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com/Grohe-Kitchen-Sink-Faucets.asp?id=13758

This link has a spec sheet that will give you an view of under neath counter top. There should be a nut that you can tighten it up with.

there are mounting plates underneath the counter which fasten the faucet to the counter.This unit will need a small allen wrench if memory serves me correctly...keep in mind that all moen faucets are lifetime guranteed and alot of folks do not take advantage of this amazing warranty which makes these the most desirable faucet on the market.however the need to tighten this faucet prob isnt a warranty replacement procedure but can be determined once mounting items and faucet is inspected...good luck

Unfortunately you cannot tighten the faucet from the top. you will need a 1/2" extended socket (the type for car repairs) and you will need to tighten it from underneath using an extension bar.

Put plumbers putty around the flange that will be in contact with the sink. When you put it into the hole, try to line up the overflow as good as possible. The nut that goes onto the bottom (tailpiece) has a rubber gasket that will go between the nut & the sink. Adding some plumbers putty here won't hurt. After all is secure, just remove the putty that squeezed out from tightening.