How do I check the anode on my bock 32E water heater? I have flushed the tank several times but the water is still brown and now the release valve drains the whole tank every few days.

the tank needs flushed out ! heres how. Water heater manufacturers recommend flushing sediment from your storage type water heater periodically.
If your water heater is gas, set the gas valve to "Pilot" to prevent the burners from coming on while you are flushing it. If your heater is electric be sure to turn off the circuit breakers. With an electric water heater, if the water level drops below the heating elements and the thermostat turns the elements on, the heating elements will probably burn out quite rapidly. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, Close the shut off valve on the cold inlet to the water heater. open the temperature/pressure relief valve at the top of the tank by lifting the lever. Leave the valve open. Open the drain valve at the bottom of the heater allowing the water to flow out through the garden hose. when the water is clear your finished. close pressure relief valve on top of tank and turn water back on.
Open a hot water faucet in your house, and let it run until no air bubbles come out.

Turn the heater back on, and with gas units re-light the pilot light if necessary. good-day !

These anode rods, sometimes made from aluminum, prevent corrosion. The rod emits ions that line the tank and help prevent corrosion. The rod isn't solid magnesium or aluminum; it has an iron core. If your hot water smells of sulfur (rotten eggs), the anode rod has gone bad or there is a presence of hydrogen sulfur gas that is overwhelming the rod. Usually replacing the rod will stop the odor, but sometimes chlorination of the tank is necessary.

Hi,
This has to be one of two problems....
Either the dip tube is not in place properly or the hot and cold are reversed....
That is the ONLY way that you can be having that problem....

Make sure you have another person look at the heater...
Take off the piping on both the hot and cold lines and VERIFY that the dip tube is in place in the cold side, and that there is NO dip tube in the hot side....then also that the pipes are connected correctly...

heatman101

Replace water heater, before it leaks on the floor
Rusted out inside

Brand does"nt matter use .75/80degree hollow

A) Calculate date of water heater manufacture from serial number located on side of tank:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/WaterHeaterSerialNumberDecoder.pdf
Date of manufacture is not date of installation.
Warranty is usually from date of manufacture
Serial number also shows tank size in gallons, tank volts and watts, and whether tank has 1 or 2 elements.

B) Troubleshoot leaking water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html
Several things can be looked at to see where leak is coming from.
Carefully go over tank pipes and valves to eliminate every suspect.
Final suspect: tank is rusted out.

C) If tank is rusted out, then tank needs to be replaced before it ruptures.
Ruptured tank can cause major damage and water runs until shut off.
To prevent rupture, turn off power to heater, turn off valve located above tank, open tub faucet for a moment to relieve pressure on tank.
Turn on heater only when needed until new tank is installed.
4500 Watt water heater produces 21 gallons hot water per hour.
Shower uses 6-9 gallons hot water. Bath uses 12-14 gallons hot water.

"It is possible to limp along with a failed water heater if the leak is slow and if you turn off power and water when not using hot water. That trick could buy time, possibly up to 3 months. With time, you can consider how to make the system do more for less as well as comparison shop, get competitive bids, etc"

D) Now you're home is safe from damage.
If tank is only 5 years old, it rusted out pretty quick.

There are three things you can do so next heater lasts longer.

1) Learn about anode rods, and inspect anode rod every 1-3 years.
Loosen anode rod before installing new tank so replacement is easier.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

2) Attach electrical ground wire between hot and cold pipes to prevent stray current from reducing life of water heater
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#straycurrent

3) Flush tank each 6 months to prevent sediment
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html#flushelectric

The smell is from bacteria.
1) The tank needs a new anode rod, but it also needs a periodic dose of hydrogen peroxide.
Recommend you reconfigure incoming water pipes where you can easily add 2 bottles of hydrogen peroxide and then flush water heater each 6 months. The peroxide kills the bacteria. Peroxide is not harmful to you since it is also used orally. You don't drink a bottle of peroxide, but it will not cause harm in trace amounts left in water heater.
2) There is something else to consider. If yours is a 12-year tank or lifetime tank, then you probably have 2 anode rods. Replacing one anode rod will not solve problem.
3) Another solution is a power anode rod. If your tank has two anode rods, then replace one with powered anode, and then remove the second anode rod.
According to the seller, he's had only one person where the water heater smell came back.


Here are links to information and to the powered anode rod:
http://www.waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/Power-Anode.html

Manufacturers are starting to add powered anode rods to their top models to assure longer tank life and better customer satisfaction.

Add a comment if you need more help.

The nozzle size and gap completely are designed to each burner, if the bock water heater had a becket burner than you would be okay with the gap, if not then what I would do is check the manufactures manual for proper nozzles and gaps of electrode assembly

Hello You have a clogged oil filter or oil line.The (electrode) gap should be left ALONE.The line needs to be blowin out & replace the filter element then the flameout will stop.

The brown flakes are most likely rust from either the tank or associated metal piping. They could also be from the anode used in hot water tanks to combat electrolysis. Does the water have a Sulphur" or "rotten egg" smell to it? Are you on a well? There shouldn't be so much, as to plug up the valves. Turn off your heat source to the hot water tank. At the bottom of the tank is a faucet. Hook a garden hose to it, run it out side where the hose lays lower than the faucet if possible and flush the tank untill you have clear water again. You may want to do this a couple of times to be sure you get rid of any sediment in the tank. When you are done flushing, make sure you have the air out of the tank by opening a hot water faucet until it runs clear with no "spurts" of air. Shut the faucet off and turn the gas back on, light the pilot light and see if the problem persists. Also have your water tested. Sears does this for free -just take a sample in and they will tell you what the hardness is.