Top 20 1995-1997 Chevy 1500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch Questions & Answers

The fuel tank float assembly is the likely culprit for your bad fuel level readings at the gauge. In fifty plus years of working on cars/motorcycles/boats I've never replaced a fuel gauge because it wasn't accurate.

run the fault codes as the EVAP system may not be venting properly

You must unplug the timing bypass connector and fix your timing it is probably off!

Hope this helps 1995 97 Chevrolet Pickup Cruise Control Wiring

Engine Hot A/C Turned Off Silverado

Yes, it could. Also, If I had the problem, here is how I would proceeded. 1) Replace fuse. 2) Have someone go to the rear of the vehicle and observe the back-up lights whilst you start the vehicle and put it in reverse. Question. Did the back up lights come on? Were they bright and the same brightness each? Did either one help you know the problem? 3) Remove the back up light bulbs and go through the same drill with the "start the car & shift to reverse". 4) If the fuse does not blow, suspect a short in the light bulb socket. 5) If the back up fuse blows again, suspect a short in the wiring going to the socket. ( Perhaps a pinched wire from a fender-bender?) God bless your efforts.

just the entire intake system and fuel injection set-up

you can get guide from many sites.. i know few error codes/ fault codes, wiring diagrams, schematic diagrams, torque specs, engine info, switches functioning, assemble, disassembly, complete refurbish, repair, installation every single thing is covered within seconds u can get the access and it's totally illustrative complete

you have changed parts without knowing what the problem is have the fault codes read first to get the area and sensors causing the problem I t may be low fuel pressure from a bad pump,blocked filters or injectors that is the real cause of the problem

This is a typical GM starter, the powermaster label is on the solenoid There is full battery voltage to the large bolt on the back of the solenoid at all times, running or not, when positive voltage is applied to the small bolt on the back of the solenoid the starter engages the bendix gear and then the starter motor runs, spinning and turning your engine over

1: Low battery voltage 2: mis-aligned starter requiring shims 3: mis-aligned starter that has to many shims 4: bad engine ground 5: incorrect ring gear, (may have been changed with flywheel during clutch job 6: damaged pilot bushing in crankshaft, or incorect bearing installed during clutchjob 7: the wrong clutch altogether, I've seen that happen before, it may be to large or wrong shape and touches the bell housing, make sure you can turn the engine by hand while someone else completely engages the clutch, if the vehicle tries to move while clutch engaged and you turn the engine, there is a problem that can only be remedied by removing the trans and finding it.

If you plan to permanently ruin your trans use the liquid glass if it is a new transmission and leaking right from the start, there's most likely nothing you can do other than replace the torque converter support bearing behind it and the seal , if its been rebuild, I have seen the pump bolts loosen due to improper torque and the symptoms are the same and no sealer will work, if its been a good trans and just needs some help, give it a fluid change with a new filter and add lucas trans seal and anti slip to the system and you should be fine in no time, maybe even another 10K miles.

Change the filter and fluid.

Remove cooling fan, all belts, radiator shroud, pulleys, water pump and harmonic balancer. Probably will need to remove the alternator and power steering pump also. Drain the coolant. loosen the oil pan removing the front 2 bolts on both sides. Take all bolts from the timing chain cover. Carefully remove it from the engine. You should be looking at the old timing chain. Rotate the crank until the two dots, one on the cam gear and the other on the crank gear, are positioned together. Cam gear dot on the bottom, crank gear dot on the top. Take out the 3 cam gear bolts. Slide both gears towards the radiator keeping them lined up. Install in reverse order.

check for spark, if no spark then check cap and rotor,if the cap is bad be careful because you can blow the muffler right off your truck if raw fuel is in exhaust system.i've seen more bad caps than coils but coils do go out.good luck,mike

Pre-Removal

• Front exhaust pipe

REMOVE

1. Starter terminal and connector.
2. Starter motor.

INSTALL

1. Starter motor.
2. Starter terminal and connector.

Post-Installation

• Front exhaust pipe

Fig. Fig. 7: Exploded view of the starter motor mounting-2.5L engine To install:

1. Clean both surfaces of the starter motor flange and the rear plate. This is important since the starter grounds through its case and the transaxle flange to which it attached. Some remanufactured starters may have paint on these areas which should be cleaned off before installation. Install the starter motor onto the transaxle and secure with the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 20-25 ft. lbs. (26-33 Nm).
2. Connect the electrical harness connectors to the starter.
3. Connect the negative battery cable and check the starter for proper operation.

2.5L Engine See Figures 8 through 14

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the left strut tower. The ground cable is equipped with an insulator grommet which should be placed on the stud to prevent the negative battery cable from accidentally grounding.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Loosen, but do not remove, the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts.
4. Place a drain pan under the oil filter to prevent oil spillage, then remove the oil filter.

Fig. Fig. 8: Loosen the exhaust pipe-to-manifold retaining nuts to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 9: Location of the positive battery cable nut (1) and the push-on solenoid connector (2) Fig. Fig. 10: After removing the oil filter for access, unfasten the retaining nut and disconnect the positive battery cable Fig. Fig. 11: Disengage the push-on starter solenoid connector

1. Remove the positive battery cable retaining nut and battery cable from the starter.
2. Disconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the starter unit to the transaxle.
4. Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide clearance for the starter motor. The exhaust pipe does not have to be separated from the pipe-to-manifold threaded studs.
5. Remove the starter unit from the vehicle.

Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the 3 starter motor-to-transaxle housing attaching bolts Fig. Fig. 13: Pull the exhaust pipe down just enough to provide removal clearance for the starter Fig. Fig. 14: Carefully remove the starter motor from the vehicle To install:

1. Install the starter unit onto the transaxle and install the 3 mounting bolts.
2. Tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).

Before reconnecting any wiring to the starter solenoid, clean the wire terminals of any dirt or corrosion.

1. Reconnect the positive battery terminal and retaining nut to the starter solenoid post. Tighten the retaining nut to 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
2. Reconnect the push-on solenoid connector.
3. Reinstall the oil filter.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

if it is a new transmission and leaking right from the start, there's most likely nothing you can do other than replace the torque converter support bearing behind it and the seal , if its been rebuild, I have seen the pump bolts loosen due to improper torque and the symptoms are the same and no sealer will work, if its been a good trans and just needs some help, give it a fluid change with a new filter and add lucas trans seal and anti slip to the system and you should be fine in no time, maybe even another 10K miles.

Any Chevy or GMC Dealer should be able to help you.

You have many problems. 1. For the fuel pump i. Check fuel pump fuse in fuse panel. ii. Turn on the ignition key to start position without engine cranking. iii. Listen at the same time for 2 seconds if you can hear the sound of the fuel pump near the fill fuel neck (remove the fuel cap). iiii. At the fuel pump relay place, a test light back probes the green wire or trigger wire with a test light. It is activated by the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) for 2 seconds (priming the fuel system). /When you start the engine, that same wire will receive a + signal but steady. Then you should find your fuel pump problem. (could be the fuel pump itself not working). If you need to change the fuel pump. You have to remove the fuel tank. When the fuel tank is halfway down (before removing the fuel pump) test the + signal at the tank (could be a wires problems) 2. The neutral light problem belongs to the neutral switch system (PRNDL) attach to transmission. 3. Starter Problem i. Could be rusted positive and negative connections at the battery (Voltage drop in the + battery terminal should not be more than 500mv. if more remove terminal and clean it. Same thing at the starter motor's end (Same thing with the ground at the Battery to the engine. if OK then the starter motor itself is the defect. Hope it helps.

Check the shifter for something come loose or a damaged cable or leaver..