20 Most Recent Roper REX3614KW Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Some possible reasons are: 1) Door switch is bad, 2) overheat thermostat or fuse inside machine has been tripped, or 3) controller/timer has failed. or 4) circuit breaker has been tripped at your control panel. God bless your efforts.

Thermal fuse

First of all, unplug the unit before working on it. Be careful inside a fuse box, dangerous voltages. It's usually safe to change fuses or flip a breaker so long as your not in a wet location. Most dryers run the heating element on 220 volts, meaning you can either have one larger breaker or you could have 2 smaller breakers or fuses. If that is the case, possibly one of these breaker "legs" has tripped. Check that first. I would sooner think one of the heating elements are open or "not heating". I would look up the Roper Model number and search for the heating elements section. Some do have a thermal fuse but I think that would cause both elements to quit. Take a look here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=roper+dryer+heating+element+replacement

Doesn't matter.

Not familiar with the Roper unit but most dryers have TWO thermal sensors. One to keep check of the Drum temperature and one in the coil chambers to regulate the coil temperature

Have you looked for a belt on the drum of the dryer? Mine has a motor but it is attached to a wheel that turns large belt that extends around the drum.

If heater is heating and not drying clothes, you have a blockage in ventilation system somewhere either internally in dryer or going out from dryer to outside. Take vent off back of dryer and turn on. Is air flow strong and hot?

If heating element and all thermostats / fuses have been replaced, that leaves power source, timer, and motor as possibilities. I would check breaker that it's notvtripped half way. If not that and 220 v is going to unit, then it's most likely timer.

repair should be performed by an authorized service technician. the 482493 is a timer kit that comes with a detailed installation sheet.

DID U CHECK THE HI LIMIT AND THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT? AS WELL AS THE MOISTER SENSOR? Dryer venting issues slow drying, fire flare ups, to hot, noise and clothes ripping etc A lint filter that is full of lint will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times. A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the drive motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat may trip and turn off the heat circuit. In gas dryers, defective gas valve coils can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent. Check for proper flame ignition for the complete dry cycle to determine if this may be the cause. The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear bulkheads. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn or is worn then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them. DOOR SEAL When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum. The vent tube or line itself. If it is kinked, smashed, to long, or filled, clogged with lint build up it can not only cause slow dry times but create a fire safety hazard. Try to stay away from using plastic or flimsy cellophane venting, aluminum is best! To provide better air flow and heat dissipation try the following Note the length of your dryer vent is a determining factor in how efficient your dryer will perform. If the total length of your pipe exceeds 25 feet then your dryer simply won't be able to perform as should, especially if your pipe runs vertically and through the roof. This is where a booster fan is sometimes needed. Booster Fans provide the extra push of air to exhaust the moisture and lint to the outside. These fans operate only when the dryer is activated, this is done by sensing the air flow through the pipe by a pressure switch mechanism or an electrical sensing relay which in turn activates the booster fan blower. I personally try to avoid adding booster fans simply because they are usually placed in a crawl space or attic and are therefore "Out of sight and out of mind." What I mean is... the unit could malfunction and you would never be aware of it. The result would be a restriction in the pipe which would cause a build up of lint at the fan. In addition, it's recommended that lint traps be placed before the fan itself which has to be cleaned out frequently. These can also easily be overlooked. 1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used. 2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer. Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while

If replacing the belt doesn't fix it, the motor is bad, and on this unit I wouldn't recommend spending the money/ time to replace it. Another thing is, on most dryers, there are springs attached to the drum that stretch over time, overloading can aggregate the problem. Just a thought....most likely the belt or motor.