Need sheave for a roper model # D5321BR, part # 2607J

Take the seat out and fix it

Probably corrision between the bolt and idler bushing. Put the nut back on leaving it loose and tap with a soft face hammer *(brass hammer) and it should loosen it.

Since you mentioned "48-inch riding mower" let's assume your question is about the mower deck and not the overall mower or its main drive belt (if manual shift-on-the-fly model). If the belt burns that means it is running but slipping against something; or that the drive sheave us turning against an impeded belt. In the first case the belt will be burned along its length; in the second the burning will be occuring in one location(s) along the belt. In any case of belt slippage, check first that all tensioners (springs) are properly in place and not broken or fatigued and in need of replacement. The only other thing would be resistance to belt running, such as:
blade blockage; blade rotor resistance from lack of grease or ruined bearing in need of replacment; grass clogging on deck underside or under blade drive pulley on deck top side; a pully sheave out of round; an obstacle between belt and sheave that is preventing free turn of sheave and belt run; misrouted belt; an overstretched belt that cannot be sufficiently tensioned. Inspect and correct or replace as needed.

These atv's are belt driven. If you remove the right side crankcase cover you will see the drive belt as well as the primary and secondary sheaves. When you accelerate, there are weights in the sheave that move making the sheave grip the belt and give it traction. When this happens your drivetrain is powered. Sounds like you either have a worn belt, worn sheaves, or need to service sheave (usually just a good cleaning and re-grease the weights). The easiest thing to do is remove the cover and power the ATV and you can witness the belt engaging with the sheaves and probably will be able to diagnosis from there.

The simple things to check: fuse and drive (fan) belt. With the engine running and the A/C set to on, open the hood and locate the the A/C compressor. The drive belt should be present and spinning the sheave on the compressor. With the A/C set to on, a built in solenoid couples the spinning sheave to the compressor's shaft. If only the outer sheave is spinning, the solenoid is not energized.

A missing drive belt would need to be replaced to work the A/C compressor. If missing altogether, could indicate a bigger problem (seized compressor, etc.). Installing a replacement belt is usually not that expensive.

An open, blown or missing A/C fuse in the car's fuse block can cause this, as could a defective solenoid (not a common occurrence) in the sheave or a low refrigerant charge level (pretty common problem). Only the fuse is something you can check easily. An automotive A/C mechanic will need to service the solenoid or recharge the refrigerant however. Be aware that a refrigerant system is designed to be sealed. If refrigerant has been lost, there's a leak. Small, slow leaks are acceptable, but you don't want to be spending $100 or more every season (or less) to recharge the system. Locating and repairing the leak will cost a little more money up front, but should save you from constantly recharging the system.

Good luck!

Katie,
Refer to the picture below. Loosen the locknuts (the one on the right side of the drill is shown, there is another on the left side). Use the lever to move the motor toward you, thereby loosening the drive belt(s). Open the top cover to expose the belt(s) and sheaves (most people incorrectly call them pulleys). You might have one belt and two sheaves, or you have two belts and three sheaves. The drill will go fastest when the belt is on the biggest motor sheave and the smallest sheave on the drill spindle. Of course the opposite sizes apply for the slowest speeds. Make sure the belt uses a pair of sheaves that are at the same height as each other (the belt has to stay in one plane). Now tighten the belt(s) by pushing the lever pretty hard away from you, and while holding it with your right hand tighten the left side locknut with your left hand. Now tighten the right locknut. Close the cover. ----- OK, so now you know how to CHANGE speeds, what about drilling glass? This can be tricky. You must use a pretty slow speed (maybe the slowest, depending on the size of hole you are drilling. And you must keep the spot you are drilling flooded with water to keep the glass cool. And you must apply pretty gentle pressure. And the use of a drill bit intended for drilling glass helps a lot. And don't try the first hole in something expensive! Practice on something disposable first. Take your time. AND WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
Good luck!

First of all, check to see if you are getting water to the pump. Sometimes there is a screen to prevent minerals and what not from getting into pump. If you are getting water to pump , insure that it is rotating, Is it a direct drive or a belt drive pump? If it is a belt drive, Insure the belt is in place on the drive sheaves. If the belt is in place on the sheaves, check to insure that the sheaves are not rotating freely on the shaft. You need to check for Keystocks. They will be in a groove, machined into the shaft and used to hold the sheaves in place. If there are no grooves machined into the shaft, then you will have a flat side on your shaft. Check the setscrews on your drive sheaves for looseness. Tighten as needed. If all of these items check out, remove the compression tip on the wand and try to get water out of the pump that way. If you get flow you may have a clogged tip. Unclog with compressed air through the opposite end or a paper clip should push out the clog. If that does not clear up your problem Insure there are no leaks around the pump, no leaks? Well then its time to borrow your neighbors, rent one, get your money back on that one or hire someone else to do the job while you sit in your lazyboy and watch the game.

What model and size is the compressor, one thing to check that is easily overlooked when changing the motor is check the rpm of the old motor and the new one, they should be the same! I have seen people replace a 1800 rpm motor with a 3600 rpm motor and not catch it when they made the change, in that application the motor would overload as it is trying to do twice the work with the same size sheave.

check johndeere.com for a dealer near you,he can give you the number.

I placed the washer and bolt back into the top of the shaft and struck the bolt head with a downward force after the penatrating oil had been working on it for two days of repeated applications. The Bushing and seal were shot, made a new bushing and will not replace the seal. There is no way for lubrication to get that far up the shaft of the gearbox to keep the seal/bushing operable under normal operations so I will lube from the top periodically.