20 Most Recent HEWLETT-PACKARD HP Pavilion dv6-3129nr 15.6" Laptop (XX474UAABA) PC Notebook Questions & Answers

Michael,HP Support > Pavilion DV6-3129nr Notebook PC > Manuals > Service Manual,http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?cc=us&dlc=en&lang=en&lc=en&product=5035702&(I suggest click on the X at the upper right corner, of the HP -Your input is valuable, small window)Scroll down, click on the 3rd file down -HP Pavilion dv6 Entertainment PC - Maintenance and Service GuideDisregard the following if you are aware;1) This is a PDF file. The computer you are using has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.2) After you click on the Service Manual file it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.3) At the top of the PDF file (Header) is the page number box.It is to the right of the Down Arrow.You can use the Down Arrow to arrive page by page, to the page you want,OR,If you know the page number you can do this;A) Left-click once in the page number box.(What is in the page number box will now be highlighted in Blue)B) Type the page numberC) Press the Enter key.You can also use the Bookmarks menu to the left.4) In the header at the top of the PDF file, is also the Zoom In tool ( + ),and the Zoom Out tool. ( - )Zoom In increases the view size.Zoom Out decreases the view size.In the Bookmarks menu to the left click on the + sign, next to -Removal and replacement proceduresNow click on the + sign next to -Component replacement procedures.Or go to Page 77 - Brightview display assembly1) Work on a table. Suggest lay a soft static free cloth on the table, to work on. Helps protect the table, and the laptop from scratching.2) Remove ALL power. Remove the AC adapter (Charger) and Battery.3) Remove the following in order;A) Hard Drive Cover - Page 54B) Hard Drive - Page 55C) WLAN ModuleD) Optical Drive (DVD Drive)E) KeyboardF) Top Cover (Palm Rest Cover)NOTE*Removing the WLAN Module. (Wireless Local Area Network Module)First step is removing the two small cables attached to the module.These cables go through the body of the laptop, and up into the Display Assembly. In the proceeding steps you'll see the WLAN Module cables thread through the bottom of the laptop; through a space next to the motherboard, go along the Top of the motherboard, and then go up under the Right Hinge, and into the Display Assembly.The WLAN Module cables go with the Display Assembly, when it is removed.You have to remove the WLAN Module, in order to start threading these cables through. (After disconnecting them from the module)Make a note, and if you wish a crude drawing, as to where those two cables attach on the module, BEFORE removing them. There are TWO terminals on the WLAN Module. There is a White wire, and a Black wire. (Cables)The Keyboard is removed so the Top Cover can be removed.The Top Cover is removed, 1) To finish threading the WLAN Module cables out, 2) To access the Display Panel Cable. (Video Cable),3) To access the 3 Philips head screws that hold the Hinges, (And Display Assembly) to the body of the laptop.(One on the Left Hinge, Two on the Right Hinge)NOTE*Keyboard:The Keyboard Cable stays attached to the Keyboard. It removed from a connector on the motherboard. The Keyboard Cable, and it's respective motherboard connector, are special.The Keyboard Cable is a FFC. Flat Flex Cable,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat_Flex_Cable(Click on the second photo down. 35 conductor flat flex cable)The flat flexible cable has NO connector on the end. It just has metal contact strips.This flat cable slides into the motherboard connector, and is locked into position.The motherboard connector is a type of ZIF connector.Zero Insertion Force.It is a small rectangular plastic connector, composed of TWO parts.The bottom piece is larger. It is the BODY.The Body has the contact pins.The top piece is smaller. Rectangular shaped also, but much narrower in Thickness.This is the Locking Bar.The Locking Bar is wedge shaped. Designed so that when closed against the Body, it wedges, or locks, the Keyboard Cable in place.The Locking Bar ONLY moves just a little bit. About 2mm, or slightly larger than 1/16th of an Inch.IF the Locking Bar is moved TOO far, it will break.This means motherboard replacement.The procedure is to use your two index fingernails, and ease the connector open. (Ease the Locking Bar away from the Body)Some 'techs' use a flat tip Jewelers screwdriver. I Do Not recommend it for your first time. One slip may = broken Locking Bar, or damage to the motherboard.It's your call.For this type of ZIF connector, the Locking Bar is GENTLY lifted UP, on the Back side. ( Display Assembly side )After the WLAN Module cables have been threaded through, and are hanging loose, and after the Display Panel Cable has been disconnected, (Only plugs in one way. No worries), the Hinge screws are removed.Remove one of the two Philips head screws from the Right Hinge.Hold the Display Assembly.Remove the other screw from the right Hinge.Now remove the screw from the left Hinge.Gently lift up on the Display Assembly, and ensure that nothing is still attached, before removing it.Display Assembly removed:At the bottom two corners are screws. They are covered by a Screw Cover. A rubbery cover that has a type of rubber cement on it.Gently pick the covers off. I use a computer pick. You may wish to use a device that is similar.If you are careful, you can reuse these covers. Lay them upside down on a flat surface. (Yes. They like to stick to the tool, and your fingers)Two Screw Covers removed, remove the screws.(Use a multi-compartment container, for the various screws you will remove.Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.Advise do NOT mix them up )The Hinge Covers are U-shaped. Pop them up, and off.The Display Bezel is the thin plastic frame in front of the LCD screen.Resembles a picture frame.It is pretty flexible, and pretty tough. (Space-age plastic)Removal method is to use your fingertips, and flex the inside edges, of the Right side, and Left side.Flex the inside edge up a little on both sides. The Display Bezel snaps into the Display Enclosure. (Laptop closed looking at top. That plastic cover is the Display Enclosure)There are tabs on the Outside edges of the Display Bezel, and matching tabs on the Inside edges of the Display Enclosure.When the Display Bezel is removed, there is a snapping sound for the release of the tabs.If gently flexing up on the inside edges, Left and Right side, of the Display Bezel is not working;Flex the middle of the inside edge, UP, of the Left side of the bezel.Carefully work a finger towards the Top. The tabs should start releasing.Now do the same for the Right side of the bezel.Go towards the bottom now. After the Display Bezel is released, you may have to slide it a little bit, one way or the other, to remove it. (Latch)Display Bezel fully removed, there are 6 Philips head screws to remove from the corners of the Screen Frame, of the Display Assembly.These screws hold the Display Assembly TO the Display Enclosure.ONE screw at the Top two corners, TWO screws at the Bottom, for each corner.EASE the Display Assembly up. DO NOT go too far. You have to disconnect the Display LED Cable, from the Display Panel Cable.Now remove the Display Assembly.Remove the Display Hinges from the Screen Frame. (The metal frame that surrounds the LCD assembly, is the Screen Frame.Note* The LCD screen is an assembly. It is composed of layers, and these layers are aligned by the factory. Then the Screen Frame is put around the layers )Note*There are 6 screws to remove in order to remove the Display Hinges.3 on each side, (3 for each Hinge)There are also screws which can be removed, and this will take the Screen Frame apart.Suggest ONLY remove the Hinge, to Screen Frame screws.Carefully remove the sticky tape, (REAL sticky), from the Display Panel Cable, where it attaches to the LCD screen (Assembly)Now you can carefully disconnect the Display Panel Cable.Reverse these steps to replace the LCD screen.(The LED Backlight is a series of LED lights. They are an integral part of the LCD screen assembly)Please dispose of the LCD screen properly.Observe the routing of the various cables through their respective channels, and latches. They MUST be reinstalled in the SAME routing.(WLAN Module cables, Display Panel Cable, Webcam cable, Microphone Cable, etc)If you do not own an ESD wrist strap, I would advise buying one, and wearing it. (Also make sure it's alligator clip is connected to a good ground source)The average cost is around $3 to $6.Just one example,http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103245Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit) the delicate hardware components, of a computer.Wear an ESD wrist strap, with it connected to a good ground source, and your laptop is SAFE.It isn't the Display Assembly side that concerns me so much, as the motherboard side after the Top Cover is removed.Two disassembly pictorial guides that may help. It's for an HP pavilion DV6 series of Notebook PC, but differs slightly from your particular model,[ Top Cover for yours is all one piece. No separate Switch Cover.No screw covers, and screws next to the base of the Hinges. (At the Body of the laptop)There are 3 screws that hold each Hinge to the Screen Frame, not 2 as in the article. { LCD removal)Shows good detail for unlocking the Locking Bar. Guitar pick is a method I use sometimes. May be best for you ]1) Removing the Display Assembly;http://www.insidemylaptop.com/disassemble-hp-pavilion-dv6-laptop/2) Replacing the LCD screen;http://www.insidemylaptop.com/replace-broken-screen-hp-pavilion-dv6-laptop/For additional questions, comments, or to have me clarify anything I have stated, please post in a Comment.Regards,joecoolvette

HP Dv6s are notorious for overheating and it is most likely a defect on the manufacturing side of things. Either request a different model of laptop or have a professional dissemble the laptop to reapply cooling gel to the processor properly. Be warned, the latter option will void your warranty, which I assume is still in effect if you are able to return the laptop for repairs.

I have the same model with the same problem, a friend of mine who is a technician removed the cooler and cleaned it, then with a hot air gun heated the video chip and the computer worked again

Sounds like a harware issue for sure, You know that you have one issue with the bad display. Since it stayed on while running disk check - which doesn't require much ni the way of graphics - it makes me think that the shutdown issue relates to the failing video interface. Some laptops will allow you to upgrade the video, but I don't honestly know if this is one of them. If so, this is where I would start looking.

If your bank statement is not in the Quicken format, you cannot do that. Best see if it will download into MS Excel. If not, get in touch with the Bank

Try now~ Then you can reset your keyboard if you like

I think you have a broken USB keyboard or USB port. Simply plugging in the keyboard should be enough to make it work. First try the keyboard in a different USB port. Test the caps lock to see if the LED goes on and off. Also try a different keyboard and also test it in a different computer.

please use English, ok?

https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/hp-10-g2/8223709/model/9078231/manuals

this is the manual pdf just download it

1) Reset your computer. 2) Unplug the cable from the computer to the monitor and check to see if its damaged, if OK plug it back in. 3) On windows computer, click windows key / windows system / control panel / device manager / display adapters (click on icon) / Update driver

what computers.?? 1000's of models over 30 years. made F10 is BIOS screens, so if that works, BIOS. and any screen then the PC is not booting. try booting to CD? *(a free linux live cd?) as a test. if that works run HDD tests. next ill stop here, if you can get this far, we go to next step F11 HDD reload the OS, if PC is 2006 or newer from HP.

Try again with the model number

what is a device? did you mean PC, a collections of devices and chips:? a PC Is not a DEVICE it is a system.(or machine) why in the world not buy a new battery first? if charging fails. mine sometimes go bad even 1 year old, when I abuse it. and I fully expect that, if you read the battery makers pages, youd learn how that happens' (cycling the snarf out of it) if i remove the word DEVICE and add LAPTOP OR PC THE ANSWER IS THIS. IF the Pc does not run with the battery (main big) out ! the power pack is bad. the PC will run forever on AC power, a fact, !!! I do so all the time, or even the wrong AC pack used, (mixed up with other pc:) get a new pack, get one matching your systems, needs (watts) the laptops can come with 5 processor options and 4 graphic chip options, the worse mix is 100watts, HP will tell you that match. but only if YOU tell your full service tag data.... that magic, nnnnnnnABA# number tells the HP pro what is inside this laptop and what power park is right or just buy the 19v, 100watt pack. here is real HP, fixya is NOT. they can match you up as can the hp PARTS SURFER, https://h30434.www3.hp.com/

sure, get the Correct HP driver for this exact pc but, but but...The windows sounds are dead. (do that yet>, CP + sound test)CP = control paneltry to know , most HP made, dv6345us, can have 3 sound chips as an option day 1 new!what you have is clearly stated in the service tag that you did NOTpost, the number ending in ABA# is THAT number.the chip and PC and the unstated OS all must matchwindows what? you never said so i cant match that either.VISTA????????? vista 32 bit or 64????????but the other way is what, sure, guess.read the drivers at HP and try all there.for sound chips (aka audio)This HP computer is 11 years old. now. (2007)HP dropped most support on it this old, (SOP) one sound chip is Conexant AC -Link Audiolets say you said (service tag) RV214UA#ABAand you said VISTA> what works there.the secret is deep, lacking full spec, from HP.finding Conexant drivers is not easy, lots of hits all virus sites now.lets first look .does device manager show it as bad.CP+DM see sound there. is it red, yellow or Unknown marked.go to CP again control panelclick sound is the Conexant still there.the window for sound has a speaker is it selected?select speaker then properties lower right.then pick enhancementshit checkmark, disable all sound effectsclick tab levels, turn up volume.can you do all that, i bet not, its got bad drivers for this chipVISTA btw is dead so asking MS to update driver is dream of dreams, hopeless, now and for sure forward.you dont have the HP install disks so that source too is missing.,leaving you , VISTA and MS and HP and conexant in the lurch.if microsoft was not dead and your internet was alive (is it)the remove the driver, and reload, it under device manager.it then magically PnP reloads from MS but not if the MS driver servers are off line as they sure are. (1/2 or all) (ms secret this is)Hard this is,::::, 1ST OFF, is HP ended support,ON YOUR PC NOW.2nd VISTA support has ended at MS. (double dead)3rd factor (bad) IS Conexant maker of chip and their Driver. IS DEAD. TRIPLE DEAD.SHORT WHY>?synaptics Bought out Conexant in 2017, and shows no support NOW. FOR THAT. the Snaptics web site lists nothing on the words driver or conexant. zero support, but do call them,,,? SO that ends that foray. leaving all those malwares sites offering this driver, only. ? many we can find it this magical way. the FAMOUS DRIVER PACKS site. (all safe ask) the one place on earth with no malware is here.this is the vista set 32bit only 64 is on other pagethere are 15 drivers for Conexant. there. get them try them.end storyhttp://driverpacks.net/driverpacks/windows/7/x86/audio/11.11

There should be a button on your keyboard labeled "PrtScn". It stand for "Print Screen". This will copy an image of your screen. Simply open Microsoft Paint or a similar software and select paste. Your screen shot should appear in your chosen software.

NO PC stated (model name and full number) NO OS stated, is this XP? must we beg you to get hard key facts like this>? what are you attempting, ? the Finger print reader has many features, which one are you attempting? yes, it can work but only works on matching PC and matching OS. the HP pages there warn you,.it only works on the OS sold with PC. (eg vista or w7) HP web site on your PC is clear, ever look there? my HP 8540w , works perfectly with W7 but not w10 ! i can not use the reader nor the security package, ever. But w10 is happy there , FP reader stuff removed. HP will not revise these drivers and apps for W10 ever. see my point? In my example case. there are 2 parts, the FP reader, driver. and the security package ( vastly huge and complex !) i say why use it at all? do you have secrets on your PC? (you 007 agent?) 008? or your soon to be published book ? (huge value) or engineering work/ cad/cam, etc. or valuable art, (or music composer) or you are CEO or FCO with sensitive data? (accountant?) if no, then avoid that. The reader is safe but not the security HP applications: look in the registry at all that complexity, and risk for that. you can use the reader to block BIOS boots. dead. block the windows, login page. or block specific apps, or all 3. is say don't do it, at all. But all that works on mine 100% on w7 only. it does work but is still risky. other apps do not like it , etc.

so you are asking for a 3rd party, really? no OS stated, wow, must we guess that?windows what?BIOS test, or inside windows, if inside what way did you do that? tell how? running the extended memory diagnostics test.the mem test fails.there are many ways for that to fail.but if the BIOS memory test fails, gee say so. say BIOS. if in windows, and it's corrputed why in the world run mem test in any corrupted OS? as XP surely is.BIOS RAM TEST: (tossed the big coin there, lands BIOS)then the ram is failingcaused by.1; Bad ram. take them all out and test them 1 by 1.2: wrong ram, used, very common on old PCs3: the power supples to the ram are weak.4: there are modules on the mobo that can be shorted causes effect #3 above, strip the PC down to just nill and test. cd out, hdd out, all extry ram out. modem card out, wifi card out, all moduels out but CPU and 1 stick of ram.pass mem test now?, if not, the mobo is dead.one needs one known good ram stick to prove this.see why? many are not for sure used or from old systems.may makers of ram do not make ram for old computers now.making repairs hard.the RAM needs to match 1 of 6 CPUthe fast one isIntel Core i7-620M Processor it must be 620m compatible and for speed.Upgradeable to 8192MB with 4096MB SODIMMs in slots 1 and 2to use full size windows 64bit must be used.buy 1gb stick and test with that, first.cheap stick fast test.ddr3204pin PC3-10600(i have no idea at all what processor is there)so.... i go worst case for you.a cheap test memory (if your pc lacks 2 sticks)is here or at amazon for $5https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=PC3-10600++ddr3%2C++204pin+1gb&_sop=15