I just changed the clutch cable to add apehanger bars,got everything back together,but noticed the clutch handle was very loose.I preceded to adjust until it was tighter,but there is still 1" or so play.I started the bike and put it gear and no responce.The nutual light went out but it didn't go into gear.Did I adjust it wrong or is something wrong inside the clutch.It's a 09 heritage.thank you

Hey Anon,
First, make sure the clutch is adjusted correctly..This video is a basic tutorial.. use it for a guide BUT DO the steps as I TELL YOU..
1. Loose the cable adjuster at the handle bar.. run the adjuster in - (give it as much slack as you can)
2. The clutch actuator lever on the engine case should be able to move about 8mm (.325") before it starts to disengage (gets hard to move)..
3. Adjust the cable at the bottom adjustment to take up any slack at this point.. ..you MIGHT/should be able to feel some (NOT FULL TENSION) clutch disengagement in the handle bar (clutch) lever at this point.. IF YOU CAN'T - tighten the cable at the bottom adjustment ONE round at a time until you can feel (a small amount) tension and have at least/about 12mm (.48") max. of play in the lever (BETWEEN THE LEVER AND THE MOUNT when YOU START TO FEEL TENSION... - NOW - in the clutch lever (handle bar).. when you can feel tension in the lever... >> you should start adjusting the lever to have (at least) approximately 1/8" - (3mm) of play (gap) between the lever and mount.. when you have this set correctly, the clutch adjustment question is eliminated. If the adjustment has not helped and you had to do A LOT of adjusting. you need to replace the clutch cable.. and do this adjustment process again. NOW adjustment is NOT part of your problem. If this fixes your problem GREAT!!
.. If not.. now.. we have to move internally..The next issue will be grooves worn into the arms of the clutch basket be the fiber clutch plate ears..(see picture) (the ones that keep the plates stationary when you shift to help disengage the clutch). Also check the actuator arm (see picture below) for wear..


. How to Adjust Clutch



Ok.. if you have gotten this far and everything seems good, reinstall AFTER YOU HAVE METICULOUSLY CLEANED THE BASKET!! The clutch should be working now.
Congrats!! If you need professional port work contact me..
Suzuki RM80 250 89 95

You need to adjust both throttle and return cables. They need to be the correct length and if you installed mini apes you likely also needed longer cables. Cables need to be adjusted so there is not binding and not rpm change when rotating handlebars fully each way with engine idling. If you do not know or cannot figure out how to adjust the cables etc make another post and ask.

I don't think there are any belts on the FG201 it is a cable driven clutch.
What has happened is either the clutch is worn or more likely the cable adjustment from the handle bar to the engine has got loose and the lever that look like a brake handle you pull to engage the engine needs adjusting. I would suggest you rotate the inline cable adjustment until it takes out the slack in the cable. it is very similar to a pushbike brake adjustment
You can see the cable adjuster near the top of the right wellington boot

There's no exact spec cause you set the clutch to the way you like it. With the clutch cable adjusted loose. ( the cable adjuster at the clutch handle backed up so thiers alot of free play at the handle). Lossen the lock nut at the clutch pushrod and screw in the adjuster screw till it tightens up. If the handle losses all of the freeplay them back up the cable adjustment even more You may find another adjuster wher the cable enters the engine case. Reconizing the only reason you need to do this is because your putting on a new cable or have installed a new clutch, If you did'nt do any of these repairs the problem that your trying to correct may be a sticking and binding cable. This is a common problem and you pull in the clutch and it's hard to do and you let the clutch out and it slips and engages badly,, With the cable removed ( or loosened up good) It should move very easily in the housing. if it doesn't remove it and move it back an forth all the way and see if it'll loosen up putting it in solvent or rust buster working it back and forth with a good cable lube in it till it works real smooth with little or no resistance. If you can't getr it to work smoothly you need a new cable. with the cable installed loosly turn the screw in till it tightens up and then pull the clutch handle. if the cable is still loose tighten it up till theiers just a little free play ( almost none) This adjusts the cable. Then back out the clutch rod screw trying the handle as you turn the screw till you get a noticeable amount of freeplay at the handle. ( 1/4-1/2 inch) . once completed put the bike in gear and with the bike off and in gear pull the cluch in and rolol the bike slowly letting the cluch out to see where it engages. if it seems good start it up and if it feels good and does'nt grind the gears and starts moving at a reasonable space off the grip, lock all the adjustments and take it for a ride. If the cable acts up any get a new one.

Good news, you just need adjust the clutch cable..

Always order the part for your model and year when getting parts and make sure it matches in length with the old one. Note how much cable is sticking out of the housing.
Is it 3 1/2 inches or 4 inches or 2 inches. make sure the new one matches.

Put the new cable on with lots of slack.Slack at the adjuster, and slack at the handlebar adjuster
Now pull the lever in, it will be easy because of the slack.let it stay there.
It will stay against the grip.
As you tighten the cable adjustment down by the cover, you'll notice the clutch lever move out.
Once it reaches the top, stop adjusting and pull it in again.
Continue adjusting and pulling the lever until the lever springs back to the top.
You can feel resistence which is the clutches disengaging.
Make sure there is 1/8" free play when the lever springs back.
Now turn the clutch cable adjust on the handlebar outward, which will remove the rest of the slack.
Only leave 2mm slack on the lever.

Now start your bike up and it should work like new.
You want your clutch to disengage within the first 1/2" of pulling the lever in.
This ensures the clutches are definately disengaged by the time you get the lever pulled back to the grip when shifting.

If your clutches are slipping or dragging no matter how you adjust the cable then your clutches may need replaced.
But sounds to me like its just an adjustment.
Hope to be helpful
Big Al

replace the throttle case by the new one

try to adjust your clutch lever by adjusting the cable

View the first 1:15 of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdqkIuVNUQc
Install the new chain like this:

Chain Adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou
Yours is electric there are probably a few differences but the process is very similar.

Chain adjustment

1. Make sure the chain brake is off (gloves will protest your fingers).
2. If necessary, loosen the bar nuts that are clamping the clutch cover in place (or whatever holds the clutch cover and bar on). They don't need these really loose - finger tight will do.
3. Ease the tension adjustment until the chain is obviously loose.
4. Using one hand, hold the nose of the bar up.
5. While holding the nose up, adjust the tensioner so that the center of the chain just touches the underside of the bar, add a touch more.
6. Continue holding the nose of the bar up & tighten up the bar nuts / bolts / quick-release system. HTH

Lou

Changing the sprockets & chain shouldn't have changed the clutch. Pull things back apart far enough to make sure you didn't get something in the way of the clutch plate free play.