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I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Eliminate the battery as the issue first up.
Check if you can jump start the car from another vehicle with its engine running or at least have the starter motor kick over the engine. If it starts then you know your battery is the issue. Having lights does not mean the battery has enough cold cranking amps to turn over the starter motor.
2. If the starter cranks the engine over as normal with a jump start from another car but your engine does not start you have also eliminated the starter motor as the issue.
3. If it does not start and the starter motor will not crank the engine over either when you jump start from another vehicle, then there may well be a problem with the starter solenoid, the starter motor itself or with the wiring to the starter solenoid or to the starter motor. No power getting to the starter motor solenoid or to the starter motor and obviously the starter motor will not turn over.
4. So I need not write much more here, there is a very good guide to solving starting issues here which I suggest you might like to read.
low battery, battery cables not making secure connection, battery terminals oxidized or needing cleaning/brushing .... failed starter .... tap the starter with a wrench, it can revive it :)
What is wrong????????? That would be a guess on anyones part here ! Testing the electrical circuits involved would be the proper way to diagnose this no start problem ! Using a volt meter an wiring diagram to check voltage at different point's in the starter circuit . voltage drop testing ! Plus knowing how the starter system works !
Starter Circuit Operation
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse , voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the park/neutral position switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G102 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse through CKT 42 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (RED) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
You have to check if the starter solenoid is bad. To do that you have to locate it, then put a screwdriver across the positive and negative terminals. There will be sparks, so don't panic.
If the starter spins, you have to replace the solenoid, if not then try jump starting the scooter with a bigger battery; yours might be bad.
If that still doesn't work, you may have a bad starter motor, loose wires, bad starter relay, blown fuse or even a bad brake switch.
- but first try to start again and again - sometimes it starts after several attempts....
The starter motor will probably need to be replaced. Check if when you ignite there is voltage at the starter motor contacts. If there is voltage at the motor and motor does not start, the motor may need replacement. Sometimes it is possible to fix the motor replacing brushes and commutator (see Starter Kit, includes x 4 carbon brushes, + x 1 each commutator).
If there is no power to the starter motor, check ignition (start button wiring and grounding), starter relay and ECU connector.
You can kick start it but your electric starter won't kick it in ?
Have you check your main fuse to the starter, starter relay and all realted wirings?
You have fried the starter motor my friend when you keep trying to turn it over until the motor stops.
Well, from what you've described, you started motor have gone to brink, better get a new starter.
Cheers
If the battery is fine, why jump it? Faulty thinking to state or think: all electrical in the car work fine. If it did the starter motor would be turning the engine over. The starter motor work on electrical...not all is fine.
check: 1) 60a starter fuse/relay. 2) voltage to starter when turning key to activate starter motor, this will rule out ignition switch or relay. 3) apply direct voltage to starter motor to detect bad starter motor.
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