How does the primary drive come off a harley 1450B twin cam engine

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Harley Davidson Engine Oil Selector

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Make Model Engine oil Oil Capacity HARLEY?DAVIDSON BREAKOUT HARLEY?DAVIDSON BREAKOUT (EURO 4) HARLEY?DAVIDSON BREAKOUT PRO STREET 20W50 3.1 - 3.3 L FS View 192 more rows People also ask

2006 Harley-Davidson FLSTN Softail Deluxe 1584 (96 ci)

amsoil.ca https://www.amsoil.ca > lookup > motorcycle > flstn-s...
Primary ; 20W-50 Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil (MCVQTC-EA) ; Synthetic V-Twin Primary Fluid (MVPQTC-EA) ...

If it is just leaking a little, remove the primary cover. Push the stator plug into the primary housing. Clean the plug and hole it goes into with brake cleaner. Apply black silicone to the outside of the stator plug and push back into the hole. Replace the primary cover, and after the silicone is dry, refill the primary. If oil is leaking alot, and the bike is a Twin Cam, check to make sure vent hose on the trans top cover isn't plugged. Twin Cam primaries vent through the trans and if the vent hose is plugged, oil will be under pressure in the primary and force itself out around the stator plug.

I don't work on the Twin Cam engines but I'll take a guess on this one. Your Softail is equipped with the Twin Cam 88-B engine. The engine is a counterbalanced engine that is different from the standard TC88 engine. The counterbalancer is located in the lower front of the engine cases. Go to this site to see what it looks like and where it's located. http://www.bikebandit.com/2002-harley-davidson-softail-heritage-classic-flstci/o/m11509#sch608106 This may be where your problem is located. Keep in mind that I'm not a Twin Cam mechanic. I work on the Evolution and earlier engines and I'm not very familiar with the TC88-B engine but if the mechanics are stumped, I can't do any worse.

Good Luck
Steve

It should hold between 36 and 44 ounces. Stand the bike as straight up as you can and still be safe. Remove the derby cover and drain the old oil. Refill the primary with oil until the oil level is right at the bottom of the outer clutch drum. If you fill it too high, your clutch will drag and you' will not be able to find neutral with the engine running.

Good Luck
Steve

Well, it depends on the year and model of the Harley. On the earlier Harley, both the Big Twins and the Sportsters, the generator was located externally on the lower front of the engine. In 1970, the Big Twins went to an alternator. It was and still is located in the forward end of the primary cover on the engines sprocket shaft. The Sportster didn't got to the alternator until late 1984. From that year to 1990, the alternator was behind the outer clutch basket at the rear of the primary. In 1991 to present, the alternator is located in the same place as it is on the Big Twin models, in the forward end of the primary case. I hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve

You have two "timings" to set on your Twin cam. The cams must be correctly timed to each other and then the combination must be timed to the pinion gear that drives the cams.

Now, Twin Cam engines are NOT my expertise but in all other Harley engines, the timing mark that you time the cam with has nothing to do with top dead center position of the crankshaft. There is a specific mark on the pinion gear that the cam has to be timed to or the timing will be incorrect. Knowing the way Harley does things, the same is true with the TC engine.

Good Luck
Steve

The "Primary Case" of a Harley-Davidson is the section on the left side of the bike that connects the transmission with the engine on the Big Twin bikes and houses the primary drive components on both the Big Twin and the Sportster. The primary drive components consist of the compensator sprocket (engine sprocket), the primary drive chain, and the clutch assembly.

Good luck
Steve

On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.

Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.

Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.

From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.

Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.

Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.

As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.

Good luck
Steve

Drain the primary and remove the primary chaincase cover. There are 2 bolts with lockplates and washers thats hold the shoe. Remove them, install the new shoe, reinstall the 2 bolts. The lockplate is installed outside of the washers. Thats it