Oil cap is leaking

first thing to do is remove the hood,next disconnect one of the battery cables,( I assume you have a chain hoist or a portable hoist)
if you don't have you can rent one for so much a day. make sure you put pulling chains on the motor, you will probably have to take off the valve cover when you get that done remove two head bolts, one at hook the chains through the head bolts, now make the chains are taught front of the motor and one at the back. now on each side of the motor (lower part of motor) you will fine the motor mounts, make sure you don't have the chains to tight just snug, when you have the motor mounts bolt loose, not taken clear out. You will to disconnect the drive shaft from the truck, I think it will a 7/16 or a 1/2 inch bolts you have to remove, another thing , have a pan ready because the transmission oil will leak out the tail of it. ok here we go,find the tranny mounts and remove the bolts(be darn careful under there. something I did not mention before, make sure you remove the radiator and of course all the wires and fuel lines oil lines,etc.I hoped I helped have a happy thanksgiving.

Water Pump Worn out or hose leaks

Never use any leak seal products on any
part of the car ,your asking for trouble & there
in there for life

Always make the proper repair

Hello, This is a problem that was concealed and you should get money back for this defect. You would have to get a lawyer to settle this if the old owner will not do anything.

The problem is that the casting for the oil filter is usually a part of the block. The filter was probably patched with a sealer that did not hold. What I would say to try is J-B Weld, a chemical that mixes like bondo. You would clean the area with Brake-Clean and scuff the surrounding surface with rough steelwool. Then apply JB to the surface leaving a higher bead over the gouge. After the product has cured, get a flat tool and wrap wet sanding paper around it. Then level the bead to match the surface of the casting.

Now you have a reasonable plug for the defect. You do not want to remove the oil filter again. To be able to change oil filters, spend some money to buy an oil filter relocation kit. When you install the kit, you will use the cap included in the kit to seal the old oil filter opening. You can use a permanent gasket sealer around the bad spot and torque the cap down.

You then attach the oil lines to the cap and the opposite ends to the adapter included in the kit. Allow for slack and mount the adapter in a convenient place.

Another method would depend on if you have an aluminum block. Today, aluminum can be welded. A filler could be welded and then ground flush to restore the ridge for the oil filter. Although some areas have little room, a Dremmel tool with a grinder head can work in many small places.
We are also talking about precision grinding or this will not work.

I would like to hear from you when this repair is finished. I hope my solution is very helpful to you.

Most likely place for oil into coolant is oil cooler, the aluminum box that mounts between the oil filter and a flange that comes off the block.

Nissan Car 350Z & Maxima 1999-06 Radiator - Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Coolant reservoir tank and bracket Upper mounting bracket Upper radiator hose Oil cooler lines, if equipped Lower radiator hose Cooling fan and condenser fan Fan motors and shields Radiator

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Radiator Fan motors and shields Cooling and condenser fans and torque the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) Lower radiator hose Oil cooler lines, if equipped Upper radiator hose Upper mounting bracket Coolant reservoir tank and bracket and torque the bolt to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) Negative battery cable
2. Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
3. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

WARNING Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot. Serious burns could occur from high-pressure engine coolant escaping from radiator. Wrap a thick cloth around the cap. Slowly turn it a quarter of a turn to release built-up pressure. Carefully remove radiator cap by turning it all the way.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Coolant reservoir tank and bracket Upper mounting bracket Upper radiator hose Oil cooler lines, if equipped Lower radiator hose Cooling fan and condenser fan Fan motors and shields Radiator
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Radiator Fan motors and shields Cooling and condenser fans and torque the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) Lower radiator hose Oil cooler lines, if equipped Upper radiator hose Upper mounting bracket Coolant reservoir tank and bracket and torque the bolt to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm) Negative battery cable


2. Fill the cooling system to the proper level.
3. Start the vehicle, check for leaks and repair if necessary.

WARNING Do not remove radiator cap when engine is hot. Serious burns could occur from high-pressure engine coolant escaping from radiator. Wrap a thick cloth around the cap. Slowly turn it a quarter of a turn to release built-up pressure. Carefully remove radiator cap by turning it all the way.


Fig. Exploded view of radiator and components

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   CAUTION Do not damage or scratch the A/C condenser and radiator core while removing.
   CAUTION Because A/C condenser is onto the front-lower portion of radiator, moving to rear direction should be at minimum.
   Negative battery cable Engine cover Air duct and air cleaner case assembly Bracket mounting bolt for anchoring A/C piping Reservoir tank and bracket Upper and lower radiator hoses Radiator cooling fan assembly On A/T models, A/T fluid cooler hoses. Plug hoses to avoid leakage Cover, then two A/C condensing mounting bolts located in the upper part of the radiator Rotate two radiator upper mount brackets 90 degrees in the direction shown in the illustration and remove
   
   Fig. Removing A/C condensing mounting bolts
   
   
   
   Fig. Rotating radiator upper mount brackets 90 degrees
   
   
   
   Fig. Removing radiator
   
4. Remove the radiator by performing the following:
   CAUTION Lifting A/C condenser should be minimum to prevent a load to A/C piping.
   With lifting and pulling radiator in a rear direction, disassemble lower mount from radiator core support center. Lift A/C condenser up and remove radiator after disengaging the fitting as front-bottom surface After removing radiator, put A/C condenser on radiator core support center to prevent a load to A/C piping, and temporarily fix it with rope or similar means

To install:

1. To install, reverse removal procedure.
2. Check radiator cap for any leaks.
3. Start and warm up engine. Check for engine coolant leaks and A/T fluid leaks.

Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).

Basically, remove anything that obstructs the cover and will prevent the easy removal and reinstallation.

In dealing with the main part, preparing and sealing the valve cover:

NOTE: some engines use jusr RTV as the gasket itself, others use a gasket and a coating of RTV. The amount of RTV is the difference and without a gasket, it is necessary to allow the thicker bead of RTV to set up longer before applying the two pieces together and installing the bolts.

On to the standard valve cover with a gasket.

If the cover is not a cast material, then make sure you turn the cover upside down and carefully flatten any overtightened spots where it is bolted to the head. You want the gasket area smooth and clean of any wax, oil, grease, or debris. You also want the mounting surface to be clean of oils and grease, etc., and smooth before installing the new gasket.

New gaskets leak due to improper surface prep more than any other reason!

Once the mating surfaces are clean, place the valve cover against the area it mounts to, without the gasket to make sure it isn't warped or bent causing other problems, if it's straight, apply RTV to the Valve Cover first, then installing the gasket into that part after letting the RTV sit for a minute or two you can apply the RTV to the bottom side where it will mate to the engine surface, just a thin coat should be fine, allow it to set a minute or two after making a smooth sealing surface and install. (I prefer Copper Plus for valve covers, it's orange Hi-Temp and seals well)

Do not overtighten the valve cover mounting bolts/nuts. They only get tightened to "snug", not to a torque setting as it will bend the valve cover, causing leaks. Tighten from the middle bottom, then top, then work from left to right outwards keeping the pressure even and only making things snug.

Once done, allow engine to sit a few hours for the RTV to set up after reassembling the items you had to remove to gain clearance.

If the surfaces were clean and smooth, the gasket had a light coat of
RTV on both sides-there is no reason for any leakage due to the gasket. After letting the RTV set, re-tighten, or snug the mounting bolts again, start the engine and warm up, shouldn't have any leaks. Once cool, re-check the same mounting bolts to make sure they are evenly snug.

(Things change after heat is applied and then they cool, this is just preventative maintanance)

A Vacuum gauge will identify any exhaust problems/restrictions that would cause gaskets to leak, should you encounter leakage soon after repairs.

Good luck.

The oil leaks, just keep the levels full. The engine mounts, unless they are torn apart, let them ride. The front axles, let them ride, its going to cost the same now or later, they need to be replaced. I would FIX the coolant leak. ASAP. once you overheat or do damage to the engine, the whole truck is scrap.

if oil and transmission is not leaking, then no reason to fill them. The oil dipstick is marked with an "ADD" and "FULL" mark. Pull the oil dipstick and check the fluid level. It is is at ADD or below, add 1 quart and repeat the process of checking the level.

To check the trasnsmission fluid, you have to start the car, let it warm up for a few minutes, and then check the dipstick while the car is running.

You might try loosing the oil cap on the chain oiler filler cap to release any preasure that might have built up during use and is forcing oil out as it sits. It sounds like a simple fix but it might just work.

Yes the condesation is normal with that particular motor. there is an easier alternative. change the Positive Crankcase Valve (PCV). and buy a 5-minute motor flush quart from a parts store. then change the oil again. or take these parts to a different auto shop and start a fresh new relationship. a new auto shop will take your business and be reasonable about their prices too.