The stator is not charging the batteries - Craftsman Garden

Its better u take it to a motorcycle service, they can check the voltage that the scooter produces to charge the battery, maybe its the regulator or the magnetic field.

When you charge it and it runs, it is running FROM THE BATTERY (until the battery dies). I agree with the diagnosis of the stator or regulator.

stator is only for charging. if you charge battery up and try, it should be fine. stator will just cause excessive battery drain. same as alternator in a car. if you run it and unhook battery... it dies, the stator is bad. keeps running, stator is good.
the clicking is low battery sound, but need more info on whine

If your battery is not good even though you might get a surface charge that is okay it will likely not charge sufficiently to operate the starter and other electrical systems of the bike.

The connection where the alternator stator wires plug into the regulator could be corroded/dirty and need to be cleaned and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protected with dielectric grease because corroded wires going to the battery or alternator from the stator or the regulator will affect the ability of the charging system to properly charge a battery.

Initially check the voltage with a voltmeter across the battery posts at about 2000 rpm. If it is between about 14.3 and 15 VDC it is charging okay If it is above 15 VDC you have an overcharging problem which is not being properly controlled by the regulator. If it is charging at less than that you could check the regulator ground first by running a wire from the regulator frame or body directly to the battery negative post and if that does not increase the charging voltage then the ground is okay so next you could check the stator integrity.

To check the STATOR. Turn ignition key switch OFF, then disconnect the voltage regulator connector from alternator stator wiring. THEN connect an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale with one lead into either of the stator sockets and the other lead to a good ground. And test for continuity - a good stator will show no continuity (0 ohms) across either stator socket - any other reading indicates a grounded stator which must be replaced. THEN remove the ground lead and insert lead it into the other stator socket - the resistance (with ohmmeter still set on the RX1 scale)should be 0.1-0.2 ohms - if the resistance is lower a stator short is indicated. Which means that the stator is damaged and must be replaced. - if the resistance is higher (OL on meter), an open is indicated and again, the stator is damaged and must be replaced. You should check socket 1 to 2 then 1 to 3 then 2 to 3.
Before testing short out the ohmmeter leads against each other and if they do not produce a reading of0 ohms subtract the reading you do get from any readings you get doing the stator checks in order to get accurate stator circuit readings, otherwise you may have out of range reading due to the internal and/or lead resistance of the ohmmeter.

It may be worth checking the battery itself, charge it off the bike, leave for 24hrs. Reconnect to the charger and check that the reading was the same as when you charged it. If it takes another top-up charge, the battery maybe at fault.

Definitely a charging issue. Always check the battery first, I prefer a gel cell battery over acid. Battery must be good and strong to charge properly. This charging system is so small , it only operates enough to maintain battery voltage. Normally it wont charge a weak battery, so start there first. you can check the voltage coming from the stator, at 3k RPM you should be getting around 60-80 volts per leg. If each stator leg checks within these results, it will be a good stator. The reg/rect is not something I can tell you how to check on the bike. We have a stand alone system here where we bench test them off the bike to eliminate the rest of the system to test Just the reg/rect.
I have these stators here new also have the reg/rect, both have a one year warranty. If you need more help let me know. Thanks

Hi and welcome to FixYA,

Two possibilities:

• rectifier / regulator combo (most likely);
• corroded, burned, loose connection from the stator to the regulator (likely);
• faulty stator (least likely).

The stator would be producing relatively high AC voltage while revving the bike. The stator output AC voltage are fed to the rectifier / regulator through 3 white wires. Check calls for testiing for the presence of the AC voltage on any pairing of the white wires before and after the connector before the voltage regulator. Check on the regulator calls for checking the battery voltage when revving the bike (14.5 VDC).

Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa.

Check the rectifier, its responsible for charging the battery when running, the fuse too, however the rectifier if it can not be repaired, better to buy a new one......................sodeep