Clutch cable leeks oil

every 5000 miles or 6 months.

depends on oil
if 0w-20 synthetic oil is required this pushes the service to 10,000 miles and 12 months whichever comes first
unless you are such as: driving off-road, on dirt roads, towing a trailer,
http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7604/~/what-are-the-oil-change-intervals-using-synthetic-oil%3F

The automatic transmission fitted on these models could be the AW-70, AW-70L or AW-72. The three transmissions are very similar. They are conventional in design though they are clutch-type (no brake bands) and very sturdy.
The automatic transmission is a complex unit, but if not abused, is reliable and long-lasting. Troubleshooting these units is fairly complex, so the home mechanic should be concerned with one thing to start: oil level and condition. Begin by having the idle line pressure tested when warm (it tends to drop as the oil warms up). If the level is low, ensure no leaks are present and top it off as needed (do not overfill - fill when the transmission is hot - if overfilled, this can damage the transmission as well as cause hot oil to be ejected from the fill hole) and test drive it again. Ensure to follow procedures when topping up automatic transmission oil, and ensure it is of the correct type. If the oil level is OK and line pressure is not then replacement of the oil and screen along with cleaning of the magnets should be done. The magnets are there to trap metal contaminants before they can damage the transmission.

The oil should be flushed out, filter changed and magnets cleaned at least every 80,000 miles. Have this done first to see if the problem goes away. If it persists, then the clutch pack for that gear or the valve body is suspect. If the oil is new and proper drain and flush procedures have been followed, it's possible that the check ball in the valve body is sticking once warm. What I have done with these is drop out that valve body and clean it thoroughly, provided scrupulous cleanliness is observed. While cleaning it, replace the check balls and associated springs. If this checks out OK after the maintenance, then it's possible the pistons, accumulators or clutch packs have probably worn out.

If by this point, the transmission still doesn't function normally, then replacement is the only fix. No DIY repair is recommended and may be exchanged in part exchange for a new or rebuilt unit.

One thing that causes the clutch to slip is overfilling the gearbox. The level should be at the BOTTOM of the filler hole threads. More than that can cause oil to run down the clutch release rod. Once it is oil soaked, there is little you can do.

It doesn't have its OWN reservoir , overfill the brake fluid reservoir and try again

There are a couple of things that could cause your bike to be hard to get into first gear. One, cold oil. If this is only a problem when the engine is cold, the oil in the transmission is cold and thicker causing the gears in the transmission to have more force against them.

Two, too much oil in the primary case. This makes the clutch drag as it acts very much like the torque converter in an automatic transmission.

Three, the clutch may need to be adjusted. Find the rubber bellows in your clutch cable and slide it up or down to expose the cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the adjuster inwards to get a lot of slack in the cable.

Remove the derby cover on your primary. Loosen the locknut on the adjuster in the center of the clutch assembly. Turn the center screw inwards until you feel the resistance. Do not force the screw. Just turn it until you feel the resistance. Then, back it back out 1/2 turn. Lock the lock nut.

Go back to the cable adjuster and adjust it outwards until you have 1/8" freeplay in the cable. Lock the locknut and replace the rubber bellows.

Check the oil level in the primary. Stand the bike straight up. Look at the clutch inside the primary. The outer clutch hub is made of shiny aluminum with a darker or black "plate" inside of it. The black "Plate" is the spring. The oil should be no higher than the lower point of this plate. If overfilled, remove the drain plug on the bottom of the primary and drain a little of the oil out. Replace the derby cover.

If this does not fix your problem, the shifter pawl may be out of adjustment. I would recommend that you take it to your dealer to get this done. It is a delicate adjustment that requires special tools.

good luck
Steve

Make sure you do not overfill the primary. when putting the oil in the primary, have the bikes standing as straight up as possible. Add oil only until it comes to the bottom of the clutch spring. If you put too much oil in the primary, the oil will get in between the plates when the clutch is released and act like the oil in a automatic transmission torque converter. It will continue to drive just enough so that you cannot find neutral with the engine running.

Otherwise, you must make sure all clutch adjustments are correct. Loosen clutch cable all the way. Adjust clutch release adjuster behind derby cover, all the way in and back off one half to one complete turn, readjust cable for 1/8" freeplay.

It is possible, but really depends on how the bike was treated for those 11K miles. One thing you should check is that the clutch cable is properly adjusted. There should be some free-play at the clutch lever - see the owner's manual, but the first 1/4" or so of clutch lever movement should do nothing except take up slack out of the cable. Insufficient free play at the lever will cause the clutch to not engage fully, and slip.

There was a recall on the Crank Angle Sensor and another recall in which the engine would consume too much oil due to faulty piston rings

how many miles have you driven the car sence it came out of storage? you said it sat for 6 years it could be rust on fly wheel or pressure plate, that would make it shift like you said, because the clutch plate is either sticking to the fly wheel or pressure plate. when it shifts hard that means the clutch is not releacing all the way most likely because of the rust. i would just drive it and see if it comes out of it. it shoud not take long maybe 50 to 100 miles more or less. also i would chg. trans oil, setting that long moisture could have got in there, you know what they say about oil and water. also if it has a cable for clutch chk. see if it's hanging up to. setting that long rust becomes a big factor. hope this helps.