What steps do you use when installing frtiction

After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

You should never have steel against steel. It should be fiber plate then steel each time.

Replacing the clutch is fairly easy on most motorcycles. A factory repair manual is helpful and suggested, but in a nutshell, here's the proceedure.
There is a round cover on the right side of the engine, this is the clutch cover. After draining the oil, remove the cover and this will expose the clutch pressure plate that will be retained with a number of washered bolts and springs. Remove the pressure plate, and the clutch plates can be removed. There will be alternating friction and steel plates-remove them all and keep them in a stack in the order they were removed. Soak the new friction plates in oil before installation. Install the new plates starting and ending with friction, alternating a steel plate in between.Be aware that some motorcycles have a different first and last friction plate, your parts dealer should know that when you buy the parts.
After it's stacked reinstall pressure plate with new springs, bottom out the washered bolts and no additional torque is required. Reinstall cover with new gasket, fill with oil and adjust clutch lever so it has enough slack to slide a quarter in between the lever and perch. Good luck!

A clutch has metal pressure plates and fiber friction plates. Unless warped, the metal plates should be fine. The cork on the fiber friction plates can get worn and need replacing. The cork on the 1st and last friction plates is about .010 thicker than the center plates. Install a friction plate then metal, friction, metal, etc.. Be sure to install all parts in the proper sequence.

I don't know which part of the tensioner you will be replacing, just don't drop anything into the gearbox. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Go to the folowing website and you can see a diagram of the clutch. Follow the diagram for installation sequence. You didn't say exactly what year, model and cc your bike is, but clutches have the 1st and last plate as a fiber friction disk. So the secquence is fiber friction plate, metal pressure plate, fiber, metal, fiber, etc.. Sometimes the 1st and last friction plates are 5 to 10 thousandths thicker at the cork surface than the rest of the friction disks. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Remove the left side cover to expose the clutch. Remove the outer pressure plate by removing the 6 bolts and springs. You can now remove the first friction plate. Then a metal pressure plate, then friction, metal, friction, etc.. The first and last friction plates are a few thousandths of an inch thicker than the rest of the friction plates. When installing the new plates, be sure the two thicker friction plates are at each end of the clutch. A complete diagram of your clutch can be found at the following website. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

Your bike has a faring on the left side so you may need to remove it to gain access to the left outer casing for removal. You will not be replacing any gears. The only thing needed are new friction plates ( fiber plates w/ cork surface ). The outer pressure plate comes off with 6 bolts. Then the friction and metal pressure plates slide out from the center clutch hub. Install a friction plate then a pressure plate, friction, pressure, friction etc.. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

it could be plenty of things .The clutch cable could be stretched ,sticking,or worn. your clutch adjustment could be wrong and after riding the steels and friction plates expand and have a constant pressure on the pressure plate and basicly the same thing could happen if the friction plates and steels are not pre lubricated meaning coating them in trans oil before installing them. or if they are not installed properly with a friction plate first then steel then friction plate etc... there should always be a friction plate on the outsides with the steels in between them if you still cant find the problem you should have your local mechanic diagnose the problem. PS 10w-40 motorcycle oil is the recomended trans oil you make be using a oil not meeting the recomenddations

the last plate is a cork type then a steel plate. if you set them down on a cloth untill all plates have been used then install them so the cork friction plate is last 1 installed you should have installed them correctly..hope this helps. if they are new plates soak them in oil over night as this will stop them burning out and help them bed in quicker