Cracked oil drain just hairline but small amount of oil leaks out when oil plug is installed.

It isn't too hard a job it's just a messy one. The oil filter type might depend on the version of the engine yours is fitted with. This method is for the basic 'screw on' type.
I have attached a series of videos that will be a rough guide to doing this job.
Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. The drain plug will be a larger size bolt on the lowest part of the sump, (oil pan), on the engine.
I usually use a large sheet of cardboard on the floor with an oil catch pan on top of it.
Carefully loosen the drain plug one turn. It should start to leak oil. Gently remove the plug 'by hand' so you don't drop it in the oil pan with the used oil. Let it drain until it's a steady Slow drip. Clean the drain plug and the hole it came out of then refit the plug.
**NOTE** fit the plug by hand until it stops THEN just turn it a small amount tighter with a spanner or socket. It does NOT need to be in super tight, about 20 to 25Nm as a torque setting.
Dispose of the old oil safely. Some mechanic shops will accept it for safe disposal.
Facing the rear of the vehicle and looking down on the engine, the filter should be on the left side about half way down. Remove it from underneath as access will be better. It should only be in 'Hand Tight' but you might need a 'strap' or 'filter' tool to loosen it at first.
** The filter will have oil in it and oil will leak out of the filter mount hole so use your drip pan to catch the spillages**.
Make sure you have the old filter oil seal ring as they sometimes stay stuck to the engine block.
Clean all the exposed faces as best you can. Pour a small amount of oil into the filter and rub a small amount of oil over the new oil seal ring to stop it wrinkling up when you re-fit it. Re-fit the new filter by hand until it is nice and tight.
**NOTE** This is tight enough. You don't need a tool to tighten it!
Check the sump plug is refitted and the oil filter is in place. Wipe clean any spills made during refitting.
Check your owner's manual for the type and amount of oil needed and refill the engine. Once filled walk away for about ten minutes before you check your oil levels. When it is correct start the engine, let it settle into a smooth idle then check under the vehicle for leaks from the sump plug and the filter housing. No leaks means a good job done. Lower the vehicle back onto the ground.
Give it two or three days of use and re-check for leaks and your oil level. No leaks and a steady oil level is a job well done. https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2002_Kia_Sportage_2.0L_4_Cyl._Sport_Utility_(4_Door)/oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

• This requires careful application of an ez out or thread repair kit very likely these are tapered threads and in aluminum. can be tricky and should be attempted by someone with previous thread repair experience, the pipe must be removed and if the threads are not damaged you can just clean up the area and re install a new sensor ( thread sealing tape is often used) you must not get any of the tape in the oil galleries or it can plug up the flow causing engine failure. pay the money now to have it fixed correctly, or ensure who works on it is knowledgable or the cost will be considerably more, torq the fitting to the proper spec not till you think it is tight, good luck

Sorry mate but it sounds like you might have a small hairline crack in your head or you coudd try torquing your head down again, make sure you are using the correct method usually torque from the middle of head out toward edg

Check Neutral Switch plate. 90% leak will be from there. Star 650 Neutral Switch Oil Leak Fix

have a compression test done as the bubbles suggest a blown head gasket or cracks. That will account for the overheating. The oil leak may be from the head gasket or cracks.

I always use white silicone - putty always cracks and leaks. Silicone makes a sort of custom rubber gaskit and never leaks. Clean off with paper towels immediately before it skins over

check to ensure that the drain hose is not touching the side if the water storage bin. if still no luck then watch unit when running to assess the leak point............maybe a hairline crack in water container

You can clean the area really good with degreaser and apply JB Weld but that is only a temporary fix it will leak again

Hi there I had the SAME problem in my 318i. I cracked mine driving over a parking barrier in the road (long story!) Anyway. Take your car to a garage and they will drain all your oil out of the engine and sump area. They can then inject a resin into the hairline crack and once it's all set, they'll put the oil back into your car and you won't have any leak from that area again! try that first before getting a new sump. As the area needs to be bone dry from oil, they draining of oil out of your car and the waiting for the resin to set make it pretty much an all day job. Good luck with it all if you've not repaired it yet.