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Loosen the handle bar adjustment a lot, .then take a little slack out of the cable at the engine connection, then re-adjust the handlebar lever with a bout 1/8" play
You may want to make sure the clutch cable is properly adjusted. At the clutch lever on the handlebars, pull back the rubber cover over the end of the cable where it goes into the lever. You'll find a round lock wheel that you tighten to prevent the clutch cable adjustment from moving. Loosen that wheel then you can turn the clutch cable adjustment in or out to adjust the clutch engagement and take up. For those bikes, you want to adjust it so that there is a small amount of slack in the clutch lever. Look at the "crack" where the lever pivots when you pull on it. Adjust the clutch cable by turning that adjustment in or out until you have just barely enough opening to slip a nickel edge into the very outside of that "crack" when you apply very, very light pressure to the clutch lever (just enough pressure to take the slack out of the lever). Tighten the lock wheel back into place and try it now. Also, make sure you are using a good, FIRM foot pressure to engage each gear. If you don't engage firmly enough or the adjustment is out, then it will pop out of gear. You notice it more on the lower gears because the lower gears allow the engine to send more torque thru the clutch, thereby providing more force to make it pop out of gear.
If this doesn't help, then take it to a shop to see if it's simple worn clutch disks (easy to replace on this bike) or if the gears have worn teeth in the transmission.
Likely you have one of a couple of issues: One is the clutch no longer is fully releasing, and the other is that the clutch disks have rusted together.
IF the clutch "feels" like it is catching late, and not enough travel, you may not be fully releasing. adjust cable or check hydralics, depending on your release system.
so IF you feel that the clutch "feels" the same, meaning that it has the same travel, then a common issue is the disks are fuzzy with rust or thickened lubricant. This happens on after the bike has sat fo ra while...Two ways to resolve this: one take it apart and clean it, the 2nd is to make several "burns" of the clutch. This involves heavier throttle, and intentionally slipping your clutch, with the purpose to have the clutch disks self clean. I usually run along in about 2nd gear range and remain at that SPEED, and shift to 3rd, or 4th, rev engine and slip clutch heavily. Allow time to cool between events, but do it three or 4 times and see if that does not clean up your issue.....
Disconnect the clutch cable at the case then see if the there is any resistance in the clutch lever in-out movement. When the tank was remounted the cable may have gotten pinched or moved out of proper routing. If I understand correctly, prior to the frame painting the clutch was okay, but after the paint it was not, and the left and right side cases and clutch were not touched. Obviously you used the wrong brand of paint. The clutch would have been fine if you had used Krylon brand paint. Post a comment and let me know what you find.
Here are the possibilities > > Bent clutch push rod, missing push rod ball bearing or push rod, worn out actuator shaft cam, Missing friction disk (5), or pressure plate (4), totally worn out friction disks, clutch plates not installed in the correct sequence, extremely weak clutch springs, stripped teeth on the clutch hub, wrong clutch cable length (inner cable vs outer cable), broken shaft, bent then broken shift fork stems, broken slider gear dogs and a missing shift fork pin.
You didn't say if anyone had worked on the clutch or gearbox so I am throwing in nearly EVERYTHING possible that could create the problem. A little more background and most of the above can be ruled out. Get back to us.
Could be burnt, or scorched clutch discs. DId you check the oil lately? I believe the Madasses have a wet clutch, right? Hope you didn't burn up the whole clutch basket. But you may have. Check the oil now!!!
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