Need change out swing arm on 07 softail custom

SOURCE: 1998 harley davidson softail custom primary cover bolt pattern

Are u asking for the torque sequence for the outer primary cover ?

SOURCE: Vt250F Swing arm bearings need replacing

You need to tap the old races out with a large hammer and a drift. A steel chisel works, a punch with a flat end works better. Position the punch or chisel on the visible edge from the opposite side and hit it firmly. Move your device to the opposite edge and hit it again. You don't want to drive only one side out, twisting the race. It needs to be driven fairly evenly, close to straight out. Rarely, you have to cut the race out, if you must do that I would use a rotary tool with a cutting disc.

Gino Cussen

• 217 Answers
• Posted on Jun 20, 2009

SOURCE: yamaha diversion swing arm and bearings

You can check the manual but its in french..
http://safemanuals.com/user-guide-instructions-owner-manual/YAMAHA/XJ900S-2000-_F
Did you put new seals and bearings in? Have you any parts left over?
Get back to me if you need more help with this.

SOURCE: 97 Softail custom fluid change

here goes oil bag takes 2.8 with new filter Harley says 3 but that will overfill. Primary takes Harley Primary and trannie Oil primary takes 32 oz or one bottle...trannie takes between 20 and 24 oz. I always put in 20 oz and thqt will work fine...make sure your bike is up to operating temp when draining your oil so it all flows.

SOURCE: do i need to remove my tire to replace my rear

No, you do not have to remove the rear wheel. There are be two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Remove these two bolts and lift the caliper off. This will leave your old pads and associated hardware in the bracket. Pay close attention to how these parts are positioned in the bracket and then replace them with the new pads and hardware. Make sure you put the pads in with the friction surface towards the rotor. I can't tell you how many times I've seen brake pads put in with the metal side to the rotor. Especially on the backside of the rotor.

Now, you've got to get the piston pressed back into the caliper due to the new pads being thicker. Do this with either a "C-clamp" or a large pair of slip joint pliers. Put something around the caliper to protect the paint and don't damage the piston. Remove the top from the rear master cylinder. Watch the level of the brake fluid and don't allow it to overflow.

When you get the piston pressed all the way back into the caliper, carefully replace the caliper onto the bracket. Do not knock the brake pads out of their positions. Install the two bolts and torque to proper specs, about 20 foot pounds or so. Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and let off until you get a good firm pedal. You may have to do this several times. Top off brake fluid in the master cylinder with the proper type of brake fluid. Do not mix DOT4 and DOT5 brake fluid. They are incompatible and will cause you troubles later.

When working on brakes, the job must be done properly. Failure to do so can result in serious injury or death. Check the brakes for proper operation prior to riding the bike and again at a speed of less than 10 MPH.