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Anonymous Posted on Apr 16, 2013

Video to change rear brake pads for harley davidson 1986 flhtc

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2336 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2008

SOURCE: replace rear brake pads

Remove right saddlebag, pull the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper. Do not open bleeder or disconnect line. You will need to push a large screwdriver between the old pads before removing them in order to push the pucks back into the caliper or the new pads will not spread enough to reinstall. Then pull the two smaller bolts from the caliper and the pads will fall out. The pads are different for inside and outside, so pay attention, and remember, after reinstalling, before riding, be sure to pump brake pedal, and it may take a few stops before brakes stop as effectively as before.

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Anonymous

  • 149 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: how to change brake pads on a 2005 1200 Harley

there is 2 bolts on the caliper take them off and there are pad pins that need to be taken out.. inside the caliper there is a metal clip where the pad sits in.. put them in the same way they came out once you start its pretty self explainatory.. you should not have to blead them

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2009

SOURCE: Need the torque specs on clutch for a 85 FLHTC

The torque specs are the same as with any Evolution engine. The compensator sprocket 150-165 foot pounds.
Clutch hub nut (left handed threads) 60-80 foot pounds.

Use Loctite 271 on threads. Two lines in nut on Compensator and one line in clutch hub nut.

Anonymous

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on May 23, 2010

SOURCE: rear brake pad installation 2006 flhx harley

Do Not remove wheel.............push the pads back and remove the two pins.
Note there is a inner and outer pad on assembly, have a look at the new pads they are different

Anonymous

  • 4565 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 05, 2010

SOURCE: replacing rear brake pads on 2004 harley davidson

Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper into the caliper bracket. Lift the caliper off the bracket and set aside. Do not crimp the hose as this can damage the hose on the inside.

Notice how the pads and the metal anti-rattle clips are positioned in the caliper bracket. Remove the old pads and clips and replace with the new parts. Make sure the rear pad is positioned with the fiber material towards the rotor. I've seen many put in metal to metal by good mechanics because it's on the backside of the rotor.

Now, you must compress the piston back into it's bore in the caliper. I use either a large C-clamp or a large pair of slip joint pliers to do this. Use a rag or something to prevent scratching the paint on your caliper. With the piston compressed completely back into it's bore, carefully replace the caliper into the caliper bracket. Do not disturb the pads or clips.
Install the two bolts with a bit of blue Loctite #242 medium hold on the threads and torque to 20 foot pounds. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder.

Slowly depress the rear brake pedal and release until you have a full firm pedal. Test the brakes before you ride the bike. Improperly serviced brakes can cause serious injury or death. Make sure they work correctly before riding the bike.

Good Luck
Steve

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Rear brake keeps sticking

It's possible you have a piece of dirt or debris in the brake line or in the relief port of the master cylinder.
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