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Anonymous Posted on May 11, 2012

Fuel leaking from r1 carb intakes

I am running r1 carbs on a kitcar,fuel is getting to the carbs but is leaking from the intake ports any ideas what might be wrong

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2336 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2008

SOURCE: yamaha DT 125 R intake leaks

Pull the heads and have the intake manifold mating surface planed.

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Anonymous

  • 52 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 13, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 88 honda accord with carb that i cant get to idle down

Should be an idle adjusting screw on the side of the carburator that you can adjust to move your idle down.

-Captain Jake

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2009

SOURCE: 1995 vulcan 800 gas comin out carb intake

This sounds like a carb float being stuck open. Turn off the gas and drain the offending carb. Next, turn the gas back on and sharply tap the float bowl with the plastic handle of a screwdriver as the fuel bowl refills. The goal here is to vibrate the float to free it up. If doing this process a couple of times does not free the float I would remove the carb and clean it with a spray carb cleaner. Pay special attention to the float needle. Clean the air filter then re-mount carb. Next Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ). Now would be a good time to install an in-line fuel filter if you don't already have one.

Install new stock spark plugs AFTER you make sure that the bad cylinder is getting spark. Be sure to balance and sync the carbs when finished.

Please rate this solution as " FixYa " if all goes well. Thanks

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jun 18, 2009

SOURCE: Fuel System in Ducati DARK 600 Monster,

Strip and clean carbs, I had the same problem and that's how I fixed it. Take the carb to bits then soak all the bits in clean petrol (or prpsi believe it or not) for 1/2 an hour.

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 30, 2009

SOURCE: Won't idle without choke

The pilot jet controls the air/gas fuel mix at idle . If the jet gets plugged up not enough gas gets to the emgine at idle. You will need to remove the carbs and float bowls and clean them, paying special attention to the pilot valve. Count the number of turns to remove the pilot screw and replace the same number of turns then turn counter clockwise 1/2 turn.

A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

Why won't it run?

If the carburetor is ok, check the fuel pump. If it had bad gas in it, the tiny diaphragm gaskets within the fuel pump might be gummed up a little. You can check the pump volume if you remove the fuel line from your carb, aim it into a bucket or other receptical, and watch it pump. The gas should pulse smoothly with a little force. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it should be more than just a trickle, in other works. If your pump seems to be doing ok, and all of your fuel lines are clean and clear, the problem may be an intake manifold gasket leak, a carburetor mount gasket leak, or the intake manifold itself may be leaking. The intake manifold is two-piece, pressed aluminum with a sealant in between the two pieces. A leak at any of the three locations I mentioned would cause the problems you're experiencing. The fuel would of course reach the carb, but due to the any leaks, the vacuum needed would be decreased to the point that it wouldn't be enough to draw the fuel through the carb.

Hope this helps.
TW
0helpful
1answer

I have a redmax cht230 hedge trimmer. It keeps flooding out and it is hunting on idle. Is the carburator fixable or ia it going have to be replaced.

I am not familiar with your brand of machine, BUT... the "hunting" you describe is suggestive of extra air getting into the system between the carb and the engine block.

That would mean a gasket leak either between the carb and intake manifold [IF its got one], or between the intake manifold and the engine block intake port, or if no manifold, then between the carb and the engine block intake port.

OOPS!!!! Also, SOME engines may have a plastic intake manifold between the carb and the engine block, and sometimes these plastic "tubes" will develop stress fractures [cracks] allowing extra air to enter.
Aug 01, 2014 • Garden
0helpful
1answer

I recently rebuilt the top end on my 1993 sportster (pistons, rings, gaskets). I have the engine back together and it will start but dies immediatly. It will continue to do this until the battery goes...

Unless you went into the timing cavity and moved the timing plate, the timing is set like it was before the top end overhaul and it should be fine. The VOES would not cause this problem either. You are probably correct in your assumption that the noise in the pushrod area is because the tappets have some air in them. I'd still guess that you have a fuel problem. Specifically, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. On your Sportster, you have a Keihin CV type carb that "plugs into" a seal on the intake manifold. If the intake manifold is not properly aligned, you'll get a vacuum leak at the intake seal. If you had to push down or lift up on the air filter backing plate to get the bolts in the backing plate to align with either the bolts in the front of the carb or the two large bolts in the heads, your intake is not properly aligned and you may have a vacuum leak around the carburetor to intake seal. To begin with, you needed to put a new seal on the intake. When you install the intake, leave the four bolts that bolt the flanges to the heads loose. Then plug the carb into the intake and bolt the air filter backing plate to the carb and the heads. Once you have this done, then tighten the bolts on the intake flanges. This ensures that the intake is properly aligned. Also check the vacuum port on the backside of the carb where the vacuum hose for the VOES attaches. You must have the VOES connected or the port blocked. I'd run the VOES. It makes the engine get much better fuel mileage.

Good Luck
Steve
0helpful
3answers

Hi It is almost impossible to get my 86 1.6L Nova to start after being shut off for several hours (overnight) I put a new fuel pump & filter on which didn't help then put an electric pump on. Still...

Under hood fuel lines, touching coolant or heater hoses.
Fuel lines under vehicle close to or not shielded from exhaust pipe, converter, muffler. Fuel lines pinched or crushed.
Fuel filter changed recently.
Fuel pump pressure. Fuel pressure regulator & Fuel pressure sensor.


The age of your vehicle also guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets, and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers (pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive. Several small leaks add up and your engine, heat/AC, and transmission will be all to glad to tell you about it.

Aside from that, if you are still having problems, Have a look at the MAP & Oxygen sensors. Finally, you may end up replacing the TBI throttle body assembly.
0helpful
1answer

2003 dyna always need to run with choke on sputs and spits at 1500 rpm

Either your carburetor needs cleaning inside or you have a severe vacuum leak. If the bike has been allowed to sit up for a while, the fuel in the float bowl evaporates and leaves behind a gummy residue that plugs up the jets and will not allow fuel through them. The "choke" is actually an "enricher" circuit and it draws fuel directly from the float bowl. By adjusting the "choke", you can get the bike to run. Or, you may have a vacuum leak. There is a hose that runs from the backside of the carb to the VOES switch and the petcock. It may be leaking but it's doubful as if it were you wouldn't have enough vacuum to open the fuel petcock on the fuel tank. I'd suspect either the manifold to carburetor seal where the carb plugs into the intake or the intake to head mounting gaskets. When you take the carb off to clean it, that would be the time to go ahead and pull the intake and replace those gaskets and the intake seal. Make sure you get the intake properly aligned when you put it all back on or you'll wind up with yet another vacuum leak.

Good Luck
Steve
0helpful
1answer

I have Poulan 42cc. 18 in.,no chain break it is older model.Where does the carb.get it signal to run pump diaphram. Under the intake port, or from lower crank case. The carb.is not drilled for intake port...

There is only two ways the impulse from the piston riseing and falling can get to the carb, either through a drilling in the intake side of the carb, or a pipe directly to the top of the pump cover on the carb, the pulse from the engine can come from many places, the crankcase, the transfer port, the cylinder intake port.
Mar 18, 2011 • Garden
0helpful
1answer

My rancher was running then quit. Spark is good but plug is dry. I ripped off the carb and cleaned it but it will only run when i dump fuel in it.

Hello, I will try to give you a few ideas and hope one works. Fuel is not getting into the combustion chamber at all from what you are explaining. Is the fuel filter ok? Did you put a new kit in it specially the diaphrams? From what you describe, obviously gas is not getting to the carb. and therefore into the engine. If the bolts are all tightened properly, the gaskets or anything else is not leaking air. There is a small screen type filter in the carb that if plugged could cause that problem. The hole it is in is about 1/4 inch across maybe a little more. remove it with a needle and clean it or replace it with a new one. Actually if you installed the old carb kit back in, I suggest installing a new one. I would check the inlet needle to make sure it is not sticking, also the lever and make sure the small spring under the lever is not missing. The metering diaphram should not be stiff or have any pinholes in it. All the gaskets on the carb should not be leaking, and make sure the pulse port on the carb and the one on the intake manifold should not be blocked also the gasket between the carb and intake manifold should be plugged. That is about all the suggestions I can provide. I hope one of them might be helpful. All the best and good luck.
1helpful
1answer

Can't get 1980 Harley Sportster to idle. New

My guess woud be that you either have not got the timing set correctly or something to do with the intake/ carb.

Since you say you replaced the advance weights, this tells me that you removed the breaker plate. I hope that you replaced the entire mechanical advance unit unstead of just the weights. The problem is that the pivot pin wears and replacing the weights does not replace these pins. I always use the needle bearing equipped units.

Now, to check the timing, connect a timing light to the front cylinder and start the engine. Remove the timing plug from the left side of the engine and shine the light in the hole. Bring the engine up to about 2500 RPM. You should see a "dot" in the middle of the hole. If not, you'll have to move the breaker plate to change the timing.

Intake and carb. I've seen brand new intake clamps with new "rubber bands" leak. I always pressure test them. To do this, you must make a plate that replaces the carb and bolts on to the intake. In the middle of this plate, there should be a hose nipple. Rotate the engine until both intake valves are closed and apply about 5 PSI pressure to the intake. Spray soapy water on the intake and clamps to find the leaks. Once the leaks have been stopped, work on the carb.

If you're using the original Keihen carb, you'll probably find that the slow speed jet or the idle port is plugged up. I'd disassemble the carb and soak it in carb cleaner. Make sure all the air and fuel passageways are clear. If the idle mixture adjusting screw is frozen up, trash the carb and get another one.

Good Luck
Steve
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