Hello I have replaced the clutch plates,the release cylinder seals and rebuilt the clutch master cylinder. There is no leaks and the system has been bled and it feels fine. When I pull the clutch lever in the back wheel moves and if I put back brake on with the lever out the bike stalls. I have been told to take bike off paddock stand put it in second gear and rock bike back and forth to bed new clutch plates in. Is this correct

Internal leaks in a hydraulic clutch system can be caused by several factors, including:

Worn or damaged seals: If the seals in the clutch system are worn or damaged, fluid can leak past them and cause the clutch to malfunction.

Damaged clutch master cylinder: If the master cylinder is damaged, it may allow fluid to escape, causing the clutch to lose pressure and function poorly.

Air in the system: If air has entered the hydraulic clutch system, it can cause leaks and reduce the effectiveness of the clutch.

Improper installation: If the clutch components were not installed properly, this can lead to internal leaks and reduce the clutch's performance.

Clutch hose damage: If the clutch hose is damaged, this can also cause fluid to leak and reduce the clutch's performance.

If you have recently replaced the clutch components and are still experiencing leaks, I recommend checking all components for damage or proper installation. If necessary, consider taking the vehicle to a mechanic for further inspection and repair.

Umm...

A mechanical 'breaking noise' doesn't sound good. It's hard to diagnose a problem online without being there to see/hear the vehicle. But .. it may be that your clutch pressure plate has broken/ release/throwout bearing has broken?

It's difficult to see why the master cylinder should leak - unless it was incorrectly fitted in the first place?

Just to check ... The master cylinder is in the engine bay/compartment and is where you top up with clutch fluid. When a master cylinder fails it usually results in no pressure at the clutch pedal, not a leak.

The clutch slave cylinder is the one that does all the work. When you press the pedal hydraulic pressure is sent from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder - which then pushes the release/throwout bearing against the clutch pressure plate and 'disconnects' the driven plate .. allowing you to change gear.

The slave cylinder is the one that does all the hard work - it is located somewhere where engine and gearbox mate together, usually at the bottom right/left. It's usually the one that fails/leaks. It's quite easy to replace..

I don't think it is anything to do with reverse gear. It's more to do with the clutch pedal being depressed - and, I would suspect - something has failed.

The link below is generic images of a clutch:
clutch diagram Google Search

Basically, a clutch is 3 parts. There's the 'pressure plate' which bolts onto your flywheel. The pressure plate is a 'spring'. You depress the clutch pedal and the release/throwout bearing presses onto the centre of the pressure plate causing the 'fingers' - the springs - to bend back and take pressure off the driven plate - which is the link - the drive - between engine and gearbox.

If you have a leak your clutch will not work. This causes a 'grinding/crashing' noise when you try to change gear. The first thing you should do is check where the leak is coming from and do something about it.

The 'noise' that you mention may be due to the fact that the gears are 'grinding' as they try to mesh together without the use of the clutch.

The first thing you should do is check why there's a leak. It's difficult to see why a new master cylinder is leaking unless it was incorrectly fitted and damaged (pipes incorrectly connected..).

If it's the slave cylinder that is leaking - replace it. Easy job.

If Master cylinder and slave cylinder are ok - you have to look at your clutch unit. A clutch is always replaced with 3 parts ... throwout bearing/pressure plate and driven disk.

Nice pic!
either

• the clutch master cylinder has failed and needs to be replaced or rebuilt (renew the seals inside) or
• the pipe between the master and slave cylinder has developed a leak and needs to be replaced.

Good luck

I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......

If you mean you step on the clutch, put transmission in gear and release clutch with no engagement (pedal returns to top position) there is a good chance your clutch disc or pressure plate, or both are worn out and need replacing.
If your clutch pedal is going to the floor and not returning there could be a leak in the system, a bad clutch master cylinder or a bad slave cylinder on the transmission. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. If it is low or empty you have a leak or component failure. Visually inspect clutch master, line, slave cylinder for fluid leaks. replace as needed. If hydraulics are o.k., suspect clutch disc/pressure plate.

The clutch master cylinder must have gone out, the seals in it have failed. The clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder) gives you hydraulic pressure so the clutch pedal can operate the clutch.
You can buy a new clutch master, a rebuilt unit, or yours can be rebuilt with new seals. Save time and money and buy a rebuilt or remanufactured unit. Once installed, you bleed the system down at the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transaxle.

usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, its an indication of air in the system and when this happens it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor. at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.
A bad clutch master cylinder will have similar symptoms, make sure that you look closely at each one of these items to determine which one is the problem (the one malfunctioning will be the one leaking fluid)
One check you can do on the master cylinder is to depress the clutch pedal while someone watches the brake fluid reservoir level. if the level rises while the clutch pedal is being depressed than the clutch master cylinder is bad and should be rebuilt or replaced.

can you see leaking hydraulic fluid anywhere? The principle is very simple The master cylinder behaves like a syringe. You press the clutch pedal and fluid is forced by the master cylinder plunger to the slave cylinder mounted on the side of the gear box. The slave cylinder is like a syringe in reverse so that the fluid pushed into it from the master cylinder causes the plunger to extend into the clutch/flywheel bell housing and engage with the end of the clutch bearing release lever. The slave cylinder has a bleed screw on the top of it to release any air that has got into the system. Ensure that reservoir is full and ensure that a sheet of polythene has not been left under the screwed on cap: sometimes done to prevent excessive fluid loss whilst working on hydraulic systems. Make sure that the hydraulic unions at the master and slave cylinders are nice and tight. make sure all bled points are similarly tight. The only possible remaining places for air ingress (and by default fluid egress) are the cylinder fluid seals on the pistons... get under and look for leaks when you can get a colleague to pump the clutch repeatedly

sounds like you may have lost the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder. Check the fluid level on the clutch fluid reservoir. If it's low or empty, you may have lost a seal in the cylinder(s).
Fill with fluid first and pump it up to see if you get any pressure and clutch release. If not, try bleeding the system to get any air out of the lines, and retry. Check for fluid leaks.