Question about 1996 Suzuki GSX 400 Impulse

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Carburetor uneven idle and engine seems to gasp when throttle is opened

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It sounds like you have a dirt particles in the carb jets or jets, the jest and air bleed orifices are so small it only takes a very tiny piece of dirt or metal shaving to plug them. Remove the carbs and clean them with compressed air and car spray, do not use any other type of cleaner other than carb spray and compressed air to blow out the jest after spraying the. If you are careful removing the float bowl you won't even need any parts.

Posted on Feb 11, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Echo only runs wide open


Your question isn't detail enough such as.

Q: It starts up wide open with the trigger depress fully but when I release the trigger it dies.

A: The carburetor idle jet (Picture A item #27) is dirty/plugged. the carburetor needs to be taken apart and cleaned or it just needs to be turned out a bit to flow fuel or the idle screw that sets the idle speed (Picture B) on the carburetor need to be screwed in to open the flap a bit more. Your carburetor may not be like either of these two carburetors but close enough. If you need to figure out which carburetor you have to locate the idle jet look search for picture of your carburetor and that tells all such as in picture A.

Another couple things. In picture B you see the spring on the throttle shaft that closes the flap to idle. If that area is really dirty the flap could be stuck wide open. Make sure the it is free to open and close. If the chainsaw has had a lot of use the engine could be wore to the point at idle the piston isn't making enough compression for the engine to stay running even if you turn the idle speed screw (Picture B) in as far as you can.
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The idle air control motor is dirty. It's mounted on the throttle body. Clean the plunger and spring with brake clean, you clean use a soft wire brush or tooth brush. Also clean the hole it came out of. Wouldn't hurt to use the brush and clean as far as you can in the throttle body. It will take a second or two to start after you do this, Then run normal afterwards.

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Wide open as in wide open throttle?? You mean the engine is racing? Something is wrong with the throttle controls, or the throttle valve in the carburetor may be sticking open. Look down the carb throat. At its base will be the throttle valves-"butterfly" valves just like the choke valve on top of carb. The throttle valve should be closed at rest, or at idle, or when gas pedal is not moved. Rotate the throttle lever on the carburetor by hand (when gas pedal is pressed down, the throttle is rotated). The throttle valve at the bottom of the carb should open and close with the throttle lever.
If the valve is sticking, spray some carburetor cleaner down it, and spray the outside clean, too. Work the throttle back and forth to make sure it is free to move.
For a high idle, have the carburetor adjusted. Timing should be checked, too-that can cause a high idle, but wouldn't cause it to go wide open.
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I have NEVER heard of a float sticking and causing that issue. Sounds to me like the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) on the right handlebar isn't or wasn't adjusted. There is a thumb nut on the throttle cable coming out of the ETC switch. Loosen the screw and turn the cable in or out to get 1/16 to 1/8 inch freeplay on the thumb throttle. Too loose and it won't idle, too tight and it will pull the throttle cable tight and rev engine. It could also be a carburetor issue if it runs with choke. Either the idle screw isn't adjusted or the pilot jet is plugged. There is a large thumb screw coming off the carburetor, turning clockwise will turn the idle up. Let me know if you need anything else, Daniel.

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Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problem. Turn H and L jet screws CW to stops (lightly), then back each out 1-1/2 turns CCW. This is a basic setting and should allow the engine to start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, then pull the throttle full on, and adjust the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Proper final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW for better idle, but which still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. If adjusted too far (lean), the engine will 'gasp' when throttled. Set the idle speed screw so that the engine continues to run, but the chain doesn't try to turn. Hope this helps!

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Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. T is the idle speed screw and not critical--just back off about two turns CCW at first. Turn H and L jet screws CCW from stops 1-1/2 turns each--this should allow the engine to start and run. Start the engine and allow to warm up--if the idle speed is too high or low, adjust the speed screw so that the engine continues to run, but the chain is not trying to turn. When warmed up, pull the throttle full on and adjust H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Proper final adjustment is when the engine 4-strokes unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L jet screw CW until the engine idles fairly well, but still allows the engine to 'follow the throttle'. If adjusted too far, the engine will 'gasp' when throttled. Set the idle speed screw to obtain the above conditions. Hope this helps!

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Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage. 1-1/2 turns CCW each will establish a basic setting which should allow the engine to start and run. When the engine is warmed up, pull the throttle full on and adjust the H needle CW until the engine starts to speed up. Final setting is when the engine 4-strokes lightly unloaded, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L needle CW until the engine idles fairly well, but should 'follow the throttle'. If turned too far, the engine will 'gasp' when throttled up. If you need reference turns, then close each needle while counting the exact turns required after the above procedure. Normally, the H needle is the only one required to be adjusted somewhat for different temperatures and altitudes, but always retain the above 4-stroke, 2-stroke relationship. Hope this helps!

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