20 Most Recent 2002 Suzuki DR-Z 250 Questions & Answers

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My carbuerater is sypdoning gas out of a breathing

hi this is the carb overflowing, normaly due to float valve sticking, turn of fuel, if you can remove the float chamber by losening the carb mounting clips enough to alow you to twist the carb and undo the retaining screws, remove the bowl, and carefully remove the securing pin from the float, becarefull not to loose the small needle valve from under the float, this turnes of the fuel when it gets to the corect height, check the small valve for wear or dirt which may have become stuck under it , clean and replace in reverse order maybe cleaning it will solve the problem, poss check condition of fuel filter
12/11/2010 8:33:49 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Dec 11, 2010
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I have 2002 dr z 250 can the cylinder be bored

Yes the cylinder can be bored, BUT, it would be sent to a company in California for the work. The cylinder has a nickel plated surface that will be destroyed by the bore job. After the boring is done they re-plate the cylinder and send back a new oversize piston and rings along with the re-plated cylinder. The cost is around $400. It will take about 3 weeks to get the cylinder back.

A brand new cylinder will cost around $420, piston $48 and rings $35 for a total of just over $500. The time needed will be depending on whether or not your dealer has the parts on hand. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
8/24/2010 3:50:48 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Aug 24, 2010
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I have a 2002 drz 250 , and have no ignition

Jumpstart is no better than kickstart, unless you have a long hill....

Try rocking back and forth in gear with the sparkplug out, starter clutch may have caught midway.

Blowing fuses when just power on indicates a short circuit.

Check for sloppy wires or piching around headstem and tank/frame.

The site link below has your bike in exploded view sections with part names for your assistance.

Cheers.

http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-dr-z250-2001-2005-usa_model15929/partslist/
7/29/2010 1:18:29 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Jul 29, 2010
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I took engin apart now need to no how to set the

Since you have taken apart the engine I am going to assume you have some basic mechanical knowledge.
If I recall correctly, the camshaft sprockets have #'s 1,2,and 3 on them with lines or arrows.
With the piston set on TDC, the marks on the flywheel and cover should line up.
Install the exhaust cam with the #1 pointing forward lining up with the cylinder head surface. The #2 on the same cam should be pointing upward.
The #2 arrow or line should be pointing at a pin in the cam chain. This is pin #1. The intake cam should be installed so that the #3 arrow is pointing to pin #15.
I do not have the manual with me, but to the best of my recollection, this was the procedure.
Good luck.
6/28/2010 6:52:43 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Jun 28, 2010
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HI I have this problem that

I just posted the solution for a similar problem, however his problem did not get fixed and reoccour. Unfortuantely, you will probably have to repeat what you did to fix the first time. But this time, you must remove and clean out your gas tank, because that is the likely source of the trash in your fuel system and carburator. Also, carefully inspect the container that you pour fuel into your bike from. It may be contaminated and the cause of the trash that is clogging your fuel system.
10/16/2009 1:57:26 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Oct 16, 2009
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Hi I have new problem now

Hi,

A) check to see of your bike is subject to the circuit breaker recall
B) Even if it was, and done, make sure the crimps on the terminals to the CB are crimped good. Poor crimps mean high heat and a tripped breaker.
C) After it quits, if you can listen down near the seat and see if you hear an audible click or the breaker resetting. If yes, then it should start after the click.

If you are able to eliminate the breaker as a cause, then other components like the crank sensor may be at fault. Throwing parts at a bike is never the right answer. Test, verify, and diagnose.

On many bikes, i have seen Crank Position Sensor as the main Fault.

Let me know, if need further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
10/9/2009 10:14:40 AM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Oct 09, 2009
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I just want to know

Hi,

There are so many Online Vendors. Few of them are ;-

http://motorcycleproducts.co.uk/
http://www.suzuki-spares.co.uk/
http://www.bikesparefinder.co.uk/Bike/SUZUKI/
http://www.cmsnl.com/


Other than this, you can refer to ebay and so.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!
10/7/2009 8:11:55 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Oct 07, 2009
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I was riding my DR 250 4 stroke suzuki yesterday

hi buddy did you put the crrect amout of oil in also try changing the plug and clean air filter get back to me once done
10/7/2009 2:44:39 PM • 2002 Suzuki DR-Z... • Answered on Oct 07, 2009
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How to chang oil & filter&sevice

buy a workshop manual , or get it done professionally
3/14/2014 5:13:57 AM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Mar 14, 2014
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My 2003 suzuki 250 ozark sputters at full throttle

Is engine condition good???? comperssion should be in the range of 150 psi. have you checked tha air box, filter, inlet track for proper condition and no blockage(dirt dobber nest???). Check for air leaks at the intake manifold by spraying arouind the area with carb cleaner while idling, any change in rpm indicates a leak. Re check your work in the carb. A "cleaned carb " and a properil overhauled and adjusted carb can be 2 different things.
1/18/2013 3:32:38 AM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Jan 18, 2013
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Suzuki dr 250 revving high

Did you checked the collar where the carburetor plugs on to on the cylinder head? They usually crack and **** extra air through. Also remove that rubber collar and check the o-ring it has installed at the point that contact's the cylinder head.
2/7/2012 2:05:21 PM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Feb 07, 2012
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Is cam chain on 82

genuine chains are normally sold continious, there are many accessory companies selling genuine quality chain in cut lenghts with joining links, the joining pins are punched with a pin punch after assembly so the side plates dont come off.
I used to buy 50meter lenghts and a box of links and have fitted hundreds of them
3/16/2011 12:05:32 PM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Mar 16, 2011
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Procedure for timing of valves

Valve (Cam) timing can be quite complex or quite simple. The exact time the intake valves and exhaust valves open and close will effect the amount of power produced by the engine and at what RPM it is produced. All this opening and closing is set at the factory and is all quite complex. We don't really need to concern ourselves with the initial set up unless we have modified the engine and changed the cam to a high performance one. Then we would want to degree in the cam(s) with a degree wheel bolted to the crankshaft. We are not concerned with that here. What we want is to reproduce the original factory setting. This is quite simple IF we play by the rules. Assembly actually starts with disassembly. What do I mean ? Well, LOOK at the camshaft marks BEFORE you take it apart. Set the engine at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) Of the compression stroke (TDC on the #1 cylinder if it a multi cylinder engine). Do the marks on the cam or cam sprocket match up with what the manual says ? If they DON'T, I write down the marks that are used and how they are used so that on reassembly I can reproduce the correct cam (valve) timing. On twin cam engines I count the number of cam chain rollers from the exhaust cam mark to the intake cam mark and write that down too. I do this on every four stroke engine I disassemble.
Well, I'm SUPPOSED to do this. On the last engine I rebuilt I forgot to do it, trusting in the factory shop manual I had. Then I discovered it had some weird, aftermarket, simi adjustable, cam sprockets. GREAT. I go to reassemble the engine and the marks DO NOT MATCH the marks given in the factory shop manual. Now what ? Who knows who made these cam sprockets and what marks they used. I try what seem to be the factory marks but the cam lobes just don't look positioned right. I try some other marks and that looks better. I put it together... Runs great. check the timing marks. You can even make your own set of marks.
To make your own marks (BEFORE you take it apart) just set (turn) the crankshaft so the #1 cylinder is at TDC (Top-Dead-Center) on the compression stroke (Both intake and exhaust valves closed) and then make some marks on the camshaft sprocket(s) and a corresponding mark on the cylinder head. Use white paint. I suppose you could use a small punch mark, but I like paint better. If it's a twin cam engine count the number of rollers between marks you put on the camshaft intake and exhaust sprockets. Write it all down or take a digital picture of it. You probably will never have to do this, but you can if it's necessary.
You can do this for other settings too. On that big rebuild I just mentioned. This engine had a counter balancer in it. I had two different manuals. The factory manual AND an after market manual from a well known publisher. I looked and looked in both manuals and they simply did not cover setting up the timing on that balancer. MAN, this is important. Get the balancer timing off and this engine will Wiggle like a Belly dancer ! I finally found some sort of instructions in a completely different part of the manual. One sentence. Not a word on how to time it right in the balancer section of the manual. I did make careful notes on this balancer when I disassembled it and I found the balancer marks too. No thanks to $90.00 worth of manuals. Sooo... if in doubt make your own marks. Why I didn't do it on the camshaft timing marks, which is the whole object of this page.... eludes me. I guess we all fall short !
Every time we assemble a four stroke engine we have to set the valve timing. It's quite simple but very important ! Set the engine at Top-Dead-Center (TDC) of the compression stroke, set the timing marks on the cam and you are done. Sounds so easy does it not ? It really is, but here are some things to remember.
Be sure to leave the camchain tensioner off till everything is lined up and the cam bearing caps torqued down. If you didn't replace the cam chain the marks may not line up exactly. This is due to the cam chain lengthening as it wears. Use your own discretion as to which cam sprocket tooth brings the marks closest to alignment. Now put on the cam chain tensioner and recheck the marks. You may have to do it several times to get everything right. Keep checking TDC on the flywheel, in case the crankshaft moved a bit.
valve_time_capa.jpgvalve_time_covera.jpgOn Multi Cylinder, Single Cam, engines set the number one cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and match the timing marks on the cam sprocket to the top of the head. Engines with two or more cylinders are especially fun to time. One or more of the valves are always partially open so things can change as you tighten down the cam bearing cap(s). Tighten the cam bearing caps or cover in a pattern. Tighten each bolt a little at a time so you pull everything down evenly. If there are rocker arms, make sure the ends of the rocker arms don't get caught on the edge of the valve stem as you tighen the cap down. The Rocker Arm Ends should be pressing on the center of the Valve Stem. Turn the engine back and forth gently till you know for sure that the cam is moving correctly.It should go together very smoothly. If you get ham handed here you can break very expensive parts. A four cylinder head is about $1400.00 (in 2006). Break a cam bearing cap and you get to buy a new one because the caps are not available separately. If all seems OK, go ahead and turn the engine over, slowly, in the direction of rotation. Go slow and make sure the valves don't hit anything. If you feel any resistance at all stop and find out why. Is a valve hitting a piston or a cam lobe binding on a rocker arm ? If you go slow you will catch the problem, fix it, and not hurt anything. Go fast and you can take everything back apart to replace expensive parts.

On most Kawasaki and Suzuki engines the marks are lines on the cam sparockets and should be even with the top edge of the cylinder head. There is one extra thing on Kawasakis and Suzukis. Count the number of cam chain rollers from the exhaust timing mark to the intake timing mark. The correct number will vary with each engine (Usually 18-31 rollers or so). Check your shop manual. Here too, go slow. Same as a single cam engine. Tighten everything a little at a time. Things should go together smoothly without binding. Remember to put the Cam Chain Tensioner on and then recheck everything.
5/3/2010 5:35:54 AM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on May 03, 2010
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I was riding my DR

The problem you describe could be several different things, however, I will post a solution for the most likely. The fact the the shut down occurs when you attempt to accelerate, indicates it is "starving", running out of fuel when you call for it. When you open the throttle, typically, you allow the engine to injest more fuel/air mix, thus the rpms go up. In your situation, your carb reponds to you opening the throttle by allowing more air, but the same amount of fuel, thus the mixture leans out, (too much air, not enough fuel to fire). The likely cause is an obstruction in the fuel delivery system. Could be a clogged fuel filter, trash in the fuel. A piece of trash in a carb jet. The fix is to check and clean everything in the lines, the filter, and possibly the carb. Hope this helps...GOOD LUCK!
10/16/2009 2:00:44 PM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Oct 16, 2009
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Hi does any one know if the drz250k1 2001 model

Try getting the proper one from here:
www.onlinefreeebooks.net/automotive-machinery.../suzuki/
9/23/2009 5:35:42 PM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Sep 23, 2009
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How much oil & what weight for a 96, 250dm?

Look in the manuel or go on line to find your bike on bikebandit.com
8/12/2009 5:16:39 AM • Suzuki DR-Z 250... • Answered on Aug 12, 2009
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2001 suzuki drz 250 repair manual

Si jodance
4/19/2024 2:28:12 PM • Suzuki... • Answered on Apr 19, 2024
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Where is the rectifier located on my 2004 suzuki katana 600

Behind the radiator on the left side. It is the device with cooling fins, even though the electronic parts are embedded in rubber paste.The location isn't ideal and sudden defects leave people stranded so what people do is relocate the regulator/rectifier to a cooler place. Perhaps to the air inlet, under the air filter. Follow the three, mostly, yellow cables that originate from the stator when you don't find it behind the radiator.
3/24/2024 3:09:20 AM • Suzuki... • Answered on Mar 24, 2024
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Why my Suzuki TF 125 losses power in the midway? What are the causes for such loss of power?

What do you mean by "Midway"? How old is this motorbike? What exactly did you do to clean the carburettor? Is it a new spark plug and a new, clean air filter? Did you empty the fuel tank to remove the fuel tap to clean the filter on the inside of the tap? Is it doing anything else? Things like - is it hard to start, has heavier exhaust smoke or it has a rough and uneven idle.
2/18/2024 5:20:58 PM • Suzuki... • Answered on Feb 18, 2024
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I own a 2009 Suzuki Boulevard. Problem is the motor is jammed. It turns but only half a turn before it hits something solid inside. what are the possibilities it could be that is causing the problem

A broken timing chain is the most likely cause, the piston is hitting an open valve, or you have a dropped valve or a stuck valve. Another possibility is something jamming behind behind the side covers.The key would be how you discovered this? Driving along at 105 and the engine stopped, or ???https://www.google.com/search?q=2009+suzuki+boulevard+timing+chain+or+timing+belt....
2/4/2024 10:21:52 AM • Suzuki... • Answered on Feb 04, 2024
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