20 Most Recent 1978 Moto Guzzi 850 T 3 Questions & Answers

whats the problem , not enough adjustment ? did you take the rod out ? normally there is a ball bearing in there b4 the rod is it missing ? have you looked at the clutch , does it have a nut and screw in the centre and is adjustment ok ?

I recommend that you contact a salvage yard for the OEM unit on that old a vehicle. There are several on-line, Just do a simple search. Other than that, there are many many remanurfactured, and/or rebuilt alternators out there. They are original cases that have been rewired and reset with new contacts etc. Generally speaking the brands that offer a lifetime warrenty are a good bet. If it fails, just replace it. I would personally rather trust a new wire than an old one, no matter where it is. Good luck. If you need to get installation instructions, please go to fixya.com, Thanks.

Lets start with the battery. There should be a relay of some kind with two large wires hooked to it, and maybe 5 other smaller wires. Now the one large wire should go to the relay direct from the battery, then the other large wire will go to the starter. When the connection is made between these two large wires the starter should turn. Now there will be one or two smaller wires that control the relay, ( these are hooked to a post or posts on that same start relay), so it will pull in and make the connection between the two large wires to turn the starter. You can check this with an old school 12v test light, hook a hot wire to one side of the start button from a hot wire here in the relay, (one that is hot when the clutch is pulled in or the bike is in neutral -- clear as mud?) or it can be hot all the time, but the starter will turn every time it's touched. Some old school bikes are wired like that anyway. Go and push the starter button and check wires until you find one that gets hot only when you push the start button. Then back to the relay, pull that hot wire from the start button to the relay and touch it to the small post and see if it will now energize the relay when the start button is pushed. Now once all this wiring is fixed it should turn over the engine, when the start button is pushed and it's in neutral or the clutch is pulled in or it will take off on it's on. Next the Alternator, one of the medium sized wires should come straight from the battery to the regulator nothing in between, thats is the regulator exciter wire, next is the, alternator wires, there should be 2 or maybe 4 wires coming out, and if there are 4 they are in pairs these are the A/C output of the alt. These wires will hook to the rectifier, You should have one wire going to ground from the rectifier, then, these 2 wires from the alt. then a wire that hooks to the regulator as 12v hot out of the rectifier. See this is how the Alternator works is produces A/C voltage (say 28, 30 volts A/c) then the rectifier converts it to 12 volts + - D/c the - negative is the ground wire. The regulator will Check the volts at the battery and adjust the output of the 12vdc from the rectifier and let it pass on to the battery to charge it. I hope some of this helps you, I hope it makes sense. I would love a bike like this. . . .

if only in neuteral then pos bent selector , strip box

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

Pretty much a clutch problem to me. Please do check the clutch for if it's worn it tends to stick.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

have problems hooking up the starter, regulator altenator, rectifer on my 1978 850T3 problem started when I took off the fairing then found som bad wired and connections wer bad front part of bikes wiring is ok is the back part having problems.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vwnijg8bTxE

what is the original problem that makes you think it is cam shaft problem If the manufacturer used cheap cams (not likely as it affects the brand name) the engine is under warranty and the cams would be replaced by the company Find a different service center or contact the manufacturer direct to see if there is a recall out on the engine consider this --if it is a moto guzzi mechanic that was telling you this , then why was it not booked in for replacement parts under warranty I suspect that he was trying to get extra money out of you and was not qualified in the product

Bad connection or faulty starter. Check voltage/current to the starter when you press start - should be around 8/9 volts for a 12 volt system - if considerably higher suspect starter, if lower and little current flowing suspect poor connection somewhere. If the voltage is low and current high suspect starter.

Probably have to remove the seat first. Most fuel tanks are retained by u shaped flanges that grip a round rubber puck on both sides of the frame near the steering head. After you drain the fuel, lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it to the rear, it should then be free to lift off the frame.

Could be running way to lean and the fuel may have too much alcohol or water or the injectors may be clogged/restricted.

I don't know what vehicle/equipment you're referencing here. With that in mind, can you drill a hole or holes through the chassis just below the gas cap to allow water to escape?

oil leaks during use indicate a loose bearing adjustment allowing the oil to move past the seal lip when rotating I would be checking wheel bearing condition and adjustment, oil level in that section and wear groove for where the oil seal lip runs reasoning is , when the wheel is stationary the oil is not being splashed around and will settle in the lowest places when moving , if the seal housing is allowed to move separate to the axle position ( wobble , up down sideways etc) then small gaps appear between the seal lip and what it runs on and so oil is allowed to escape if it is a drive shaft to the rear wheel check the output shaft to the wheel for movement ( bad bearings , adjustment/ preload ) or anything that will not keep the shaft in the center of the seal

Could it be immobilized? Try disconnecting the battery.

the blank one and you can check this out after the bike is running or at least when you get the coil to fire by placing the lead part of a pencil in the gap between the spark plug or a good ground and the gap between the pencil and the spark plug wire so you can see the spark jump to the plug or ground from the plug wire and if the spark flash is on the wire side of the pencil the coil the coil is wired with wrong polarity if the system is a positive ground system. The coil will work no matter what the polarity ie no matter which of the terminals you connect to power and which you connect to ground, the only difference will be a somewhat weaker spark if electron flow is reversed from what it should be i.e. if it is from negative or ground to positive on a negative ground system or as on some older British ignition systems from positive to negative on a positive ground system. The flash will appear on the side of the pencil lead away from the current flow i.e. the flash will occur as the current leaves the pencil lead. Hope this helps.

Try at guzzitech.com or wildguzzi.com. Also the folks at harper moto guzzi have an online site. Try them too.