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Posted on Jul 25, 2011

Chevy 1978 400 CID thermostat won't open. Found sensor spring is not attached by design in old and new thermostat. If water pump pressure is behind the valve this will hold it shut. It works ok if heater core is bypassed. The thermostat was tested outside the vehicle.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 02, 2009

SOURCE: No Heat and Overheating in 1999 Chevy Silverado

hi on thoes trucks the theermostat must be put in with the little hole in the thermostat pointing at 12 oclock or pointing away from radiator to let all air out.and check for a colapsing hose stpoing the coolant from circulating. tyr that first

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 02, 2009

SOURCE: no heat, replaced thermostat,water pump,heater core, all hose ok

When you put your hand on the inlet & outlet heater hoses are they both hot to the touch ? I mean 'ouch' hot, not just warm.
You might have an 'air lock' in the system if they are only warm, or temp feels quite different between them.
If possible, leave the return heater hose loose, start engine, let it warm up then bleed the system using return hose for a minute or so.
KEEP rad full while bleeding.
tighten hose, then watch the radiator fill hole for signs of air bubbles or frothing coming up thru antifreeze.
If either are present, you may have compression leak !
Another check for compression leak, is put rad cap on, drive around the block twice, let vehicle cool down then slowly remove rad cap & smell at filler hole as cap comes off.
compression leak will smell strong & burn eyes.. & we both know there is only one cure for that situation !!

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2009

SOURCE: 2001 Chevy Malibu, 89,000 miles, 3.1 engine, won't start

CLICK HERE for the injector schematic.
CLICK HERE for the Ignition schematic.

Since the PCM uses info gatheres from the crank and cam sensors to calculate ignition - and there are no OBD codes - in all likelihood, the PCM itself is bad.

The Ignition Module, also transmits to the PCM.

It appears after all your testing - that the PCM is at fault.

It does not error report on itself (unfortunately).

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary (distributorless ignition) or possible.

Please see the following....

The ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). No adjustment is necessary or possible.
The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the piston will be at the beginning of the power stroke just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Because it takes a fraction of a second for the spark plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC. Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC (BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10 BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, however, when the engine is at idle speed. The combustion process must be complete by 23° ATDC to maintain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even sooner if it is to be completely ignited when the piston reaches TDC. Spark timing changes are accomplished electronically by the engine and ignition control computers.
If the ignition is set too far advanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel in the cylinder will occur too soon and tend to force the piston down while it is still traveling up. This causes pre ignition or -knocking and pinging-. If the ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC (ATDC), the piston will have already started on its way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks on the pulley correspond to the position of the piston in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) timing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire (2.2L engine only, on the 2.4L engines, special adapters are needed) . Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while the engine is running, the exact position of the piston within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the mark and scale are in specified alignment.


WARNING When checking timing with the engine running, take care not to get the timing light wires tangled in the fan blades and/or drive belts.

The engines covered by this manual are equipped with distributorless ignitions, ignition timing is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), as applicable. No adjustments are possible. If ignition timing is not within specification, there is a fault in the engine control system. Diagnose and repair the problem as necessary.




Thanks for using FixYa!!

seanpwright

Sean Wright

  • 2045 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2010

SOURCE: i changed the water pump thermostat and heater

1)Air trapped in system
2)plugged radiator
3)collapsed heater hoses while engine is running
4) heater control valve
5) blend door motor for hot/cold (VERY COMMON)

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 02, 2010

SOURCE: 94 Chevy Suburban runs 1 minute and shuts off like

This is an electronic engine control problem do u have any system fault codes? u need to check them, here is how to do that, go to the link.

http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/03/gm-1983-95-vehicles-obd1-codes-self.html

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98 Chevy Malibu won't start after replacing thermostat?

replace thermostat did bleed coolant system check coolant level.because if not engine could have overheated and blowed headgaskets warp or cracked the heads check engine compression.sound like engine got too hot.
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Hello. My 1997 Chevy Tahoe refuses to start. The problems began with a bad fuel pump. I changed. It worked. The fuel pump died again. I changed it again and it has been working. I parked it for two weeks....

Now you have a good battery & a starter that turns over the motor

Have you cycled the key on & off with a fuel pressure gauge on the
fuel rail?

Do you have a fuel filter that isn't over 3 or 4 years old?

Have you checked for spark while cranking ? Use an old plug on the wires,
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If you removed the ducting & MAF Sensor it won't start

Tell us what you checked & exactly how that was done.
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How do I replace a water pump on a 1999 malibou with a quad 4?

Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. 2.4L Engine
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
  2. Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor electrical connector.
  3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for a more complete coolant drain.
  4. Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
  5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
  6. Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
  7. Break the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts loose using a 13mm box wrench.
  8. Raise and safely support the vehicle. NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
  9. Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
  10. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
    1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
    2. Remove the other bolt.
    3. Remove the first bolt. NOTE: DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4°or damage may occur.
  11. Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
  12. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
  13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  14. Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
  15. Remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
  16. Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces. Fig. 1: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.4L engine 87953070.gif
    To install:
  17. Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
  18. Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
  19. Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slide the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
  20. With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
    1. Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts:19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    2. Pump cover-to-pump assembly: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    3. Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first: 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    4. Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover: 125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
  21. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
  22. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  23. Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
  24. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
  25. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan.
  26. Install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
  27. Install the lower heat shield.
  28. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  29. Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
  30. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
  31. Install the upper heat shield.
  32. Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
  33. Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
  34. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine OFF.
  35. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level, then install the radiator cap.
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Overheating 2001 chevy impala

Believe it or not, new thermostats can be bad. Did you maybe get some adhesive on the thermostat preventing it to open fully? Is the thermostat installed with the crown up? The only other thing that I can think of, if it's a closed cooling system and the wrong radiator cap is installed, it won't hold the pressure, therefor overheating. The other thing may be the water pump. Many times the impellers will wear down internally causing to low of water flow.
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Car overheating

Most cars have a thermostat on the return to the engine block. It is designed to open and close at a certain temperature range. This is what helps to regulate the water temperature circulating through your engine. These thermostat valves get old, corrosion can build on them, or the coil that's responsible for opening it at the designed temperature quits opening all the way or all together.

Things to check for in your particular vehicle type:

1) Coolant Temperature Sensor
2) Radiator (Make sure have the right mixture of water to coolant ratio)
3) Engine fan (cools water in the radiator)
4) Thermostat (opens and closes allowing water to circulate through engine)
5) Of course, the water pump which you said tested fine.

I can be of more assistance if necessary.
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Need to replace thermostat 2000 taurus

If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.

The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.

To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).

Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.
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Gdi 1800 cedia wagon-odometer 80,000km exact, starting, no power

Hi it sounds like your high pressure pump needs replacing. the pump can be repaired but you will have to find someone who knows about it, i fix a lot of them before. there is a spring that pushes out the piston in the pump so it can compress the fuel that spring losses its ability to extract the piston back out. i have pictures of one if anyone wants to see
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