my car cut out . and wont start agai . i have no spark . i have changed the coil and stll have no spark . the car turns over but will not fire .my car cut out . and wont start agai . i have no spark . i have changed the coil and stll have no spark . the car turns over but will not fire .
I have power on both sides of the coil and no spark to the distributor from the coilI have power on both sides of the coil and no spark to the distributor from the coil
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Make sure you have 12V to the +side of the coil and that the points are breaking the -side. If you have 12V and the points are breaking ground, you have a bad coil.
If your coil checks out OK, as you say, then the problem isn't the coil. How did you check the coil. Did you take the high tension wire on the coil off the distributor and ground it to the engine- and you got a bluish spark?. If you did, then the coil is working. Did you measure the voltage at the coil primary 12v. terminals and got +12v.
If all this checks out OK, the problem is likely in the distribor cap and rotor.
There should be a small white ceramic block on the firewall - this component cuts the battery voltage from 12 to 9 volts for the coil and ignition system. It has 4 wires and is called a ballast resistor. You may need a book with the wiring diagram to be able to test it. You should have battery voltage going in and something like 9 volts coming out. You can also run a wire with a fuse from the battery to the positive side of the coil to check the system. Disconnect the factory wire from the coil first.
In the bottom of the distributor under the plate there is a coil with hair-fine wire, a broken wire there will cause the no-spark issue for sure, check it with an Ohmmeter for continuity, good luck!
your asking me something now ,havent seen one in years but the cables can be connected over with time and patience and a bit of solder is good as it doesnt corrode ,now the ballast resistor fitted with the siemans was a different type of circuit and as it was a bosch then wire it as the bosch was wired ,because the ballast resistor was used in conjuction with a 9v coil and when you cranked the engine it allowed full 12v voltage to the coil to give an increased spark under crank load ,never did work that well to be honest and the resistors often packed up so use it as the bosch system .On the siemans you had a wire from starter connection on ignition switch to coil and the ignition feed went through the resistor to the coil ,Simple enough but them resistors were a right pain in all honesty
assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributordistribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.
my car cut out . and wont start agai . i have no spark . i have changed the coil and stll have no spark . the car turns over but will not fire .
I have power on both sides of the coil and no spark to the distributor from the coil
×