Question about 2004 Kia Sorento

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Starter turns over but no ignition - no power to instrument panel

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  • rhansen22 Sep 04, 2008

    car will turn over but there is no ignition spark from coil, replaced coil with no change in problem

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Probably a burned fuse. Look in the interior fuse box at the driver feet. There is a 10 amp. fuse mark "METER". When it is burned, the IMMO system won't reaconized the key chip an the vehicle won't run
Is it possible that the burned fuse was cause by a trailer harness wirring ?? Cause my kwoledge of this problem always occur when, or just after, trailering.

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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This sounds like it could be a faulty crankshaft position sensor.

One thing you can do is go to a part place and either rent (autozone calls it rent-a-tool) or buy any code reader. It might tell you of any stored code readings indicating a possible problem. If it is a faulty crankshaft position sensor, that is very involved fix. See my other post on locating and replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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Could be a faulty ignition switch, how many miles on this vehicle?

Posted on Mar 13, 2013

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Lots of power, dash lights up but no ignition power to starter, relay changed, neutral start switch changed, fuses good.


Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.

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30 amp Starter/Ignition fuse keeps blowing when i turn the ignition key. The instrumentpanel lights are dim and then the fuse blows.


I am assuming you are talking about the circuit that powers the key switch. I'm showing a fuseable link to the starter relay instead of a fuse.
If it is the circuit that powers the switch, I would disconnect the switch and see if the fuse blows as each circuit is powered one at a time using a jumper wire. You can get 30amp circuit breakers that plug into the fuse slot to use while you are testing circuits.
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dont know what kind car you have there is a wire that goes to your starter from your ignition its the small thin wire have somebody turn ignition tu run possition and you can go to your starter and get a circuit tester check for power if no power thats your problem easy way to fix is to run new wire to your starter also if ok them your problem is on a fuseble link let me know mayby i can still help by e mailing you a wiring harness diagram ok

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1 Answer

Fuses panel described in English


Hope this helps your out. I know the diagram and locator is a bit blurry but hopefully it gets what you need.
Drivers kick panel:
Front wiper 20A - Front wiper system Cigar 15A- Cigarette lighter Audio 10A- Audio, remote control mirror Air Bag 10A -Air bag diagnostics Stop lights- 15A -Rear brake light, high mounted stop light ECU B+ 10A - Shift lock actuator, transaxle controle module, radio, engine control module Room 10A - Interior light, clock, ignition key reminder, rear cargo area light switch ABS 10A- Anti lock brake system control unit ECU IG1 10A - Transaxle control module, shift lock actuator, ABS control unit, DRL unit Meter 10A - Instrument panel, back-up switch, electronics time control module, inhibit switch Turn signal 10A- Hazard switch ,front and rear turn lights, turn indicator IGN1 20A - Ignition switch ABS 30A- ABS pump motor TNS 30A- Tail light, license plate light COOL/FAN 30A- Cooling fan Cond/Fan 20A- A/C condenser fan Starter 15A- Start signal , Fuel pump Blower 25A- Blower Motor SR/ACC 10A - Ignition switch Hazard 15A - Hazard and turn signal light D/Lock 25A- Door locks ABS 30A - Anti lock brake system control P/W RH 20A- Power window motor right hand P/W LH 20A- Power window motor left hand IGN2 25A- Ignition Switch
Engine compartment :
Head 25A- headlights IG 2 30A- Ignition switch IG coil 15A -Ignition coil, condenser,generator IC regulator, diagnostic connector. O2 down 10A- Rear O2 sensor O2 up 10A- Front O2 sensor Fuel pump 10A -Fuel pump unit Injector 10A -Fuel injector ,camshaft positioning sensor, purge solenoid valve, EVAP, IAC actuator, Mass Airflow sensor, EGR stepper motor. fuel pump relay coil, vehicle speed sensor. A/Con 10A - A/C compressor controls, cooling fan BTN 30A- Brake light , high mounted stop light. Tail light LH 10A- License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Tail light RH 10A-License plate light, tail light , rear combo light, instrument panel illumination Head low 15A- Headlight Head Hi 15A-Headlight Horn 15A- Horn jlmacman.png jlmacman_0.png

Inside kick panel jlmacman_1.png

Mar 07, 2011 | 1995 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

I have a 1994 olds 88 royale with gear shift on steering column. My car has power to instrument panel, fuel pump, injectors but will not turn over. I thought it may be inition switch which is under dash...


I would check to see if you are getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid when you turn the key to the starting position. If so, you may have a bad starter or solenoid.

Jun 14, 2010 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

Ignition troubles


unplug connector at ignition switch, bridge terminal 30 [battery power] on connector and terminal 50 power to starter solenoid. engine should turn over. plastic ignition switch can wear and not make contact. at times the lug on ignition barrel that turns the switch breaks off.

May 23, 2010 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

3 Answers

1998 Expedition


I dont think I have ever come across your exact problem.
I checked for TSB's regarding your problem, and there were
none.
I would recommend removing the instrument panel (I.P), and
checking the connections.
I would also check the connections at the ignition switch.
It is possible that one of the ignition wires is not being fed when this problem occurs. This could be caused by
a poor/broken connection, Worn ignition switch, or a remote car starter poorly installed or malfunctioning.

The next time this happens, grab a test light and remove panels for access to the wiring harness to the ignition switch. STAY AWAY FROM THE HARNESS FOR THE CLOCKSPRING AND AIRBAG. With the ignition on (in run) check for power at the dark blue wire, black&white wire, and the black&orange wire.
If one does not have power, then test it at the switch. If still no power, then replace the switch. If the wire has no power, but has power at the switch then repair the wire.

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