Hi,
Initially I would least likely suspect any fuel related problem. It would appear your problem is electrical and based on your description, intermittent and possibly heat related.
Rough idle, stalling could be ignition related such as the ignition coil, distributor/cap, rotor. Possibly a cracked in any of the insulated casing/housing of these electrical components allowing spark to arc/escape causing misfire in the plugs. Try running the engine in a dark place, hood open and check for spark jumps.
It is significant that the engine will not crank. This is indicative of no power to the starter motor. Please see this response for starter related concerns on another make/model.
Spark plugs - too much fuel (wet) could be because it is getting correct fuel but it is not firing thus subsequent fuel injection would simply wet it (no detonation);
A remote possibility is leak in the intake manifold, any of the vacuum lines and/or the air cleaner assembly. You could try spraying "ether starting fluid" on the suspected leak areas during the rough idle and see it the idle smoothen out, if yes - leak confirmed.
Alternately, though still remotely, is undercharging. The battery might be getting just enough to run shortly but not to re-start later on. Low B+12 would also cause erratic ignition performance and poor fuel pump motor pressure.
Of course, the best diagnosis and technically correct is to have the car's computer scanned for log errors and interpreted for "probable" faults.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards.
Thank you for using FixYa.
Our battery cable or the ground on the engine are they good do you boots the car after its stalls let me know
How about the temperature did you check the meter. if rising then get the vehicle checked for heating
Did you check the battery because this can also be cause by a lower power battery..
Hope that helps.........
Check to see if the problem is temperature related. As if the car runs fine when cold, but after 10 minutes it runs bad and wont start/run until it cools off. If this is the case, I would replace the coolant sensor on top of the thermostat housing. If this isn't the problem.. see below.
I would start by checking for vacuum leaks. You already fixed one but there could be more. Take some starting fluid and spray lightly in several places where there might be vacuum leak. Around all boots, at the base of the fuel injectors, around any vacuum lines, etc... If you hear the engine rev slightly, it is sucking in this starting fluid and burning it. That means you have a leak. Try to narrow down WHERE the leak is and replace the problem.
You should probably check/clean the ICV (Idle Control Valve). Its the little cylinder that attaches to the intake boot you replaced. Its usually right beside the intake manifold, where the intake boot bends around it. Take this off, and spray it out with some contact cleaner or carb/choke cleaner. They get gummed up some times, and cause weird idling.
If that still hasn't solved the problem, you should look at the Air Flow Meter (AFM). The AFM is the little silver box-thing on the end of the intake boot you replaced. It sits right above the air-filter box. These have a metal contact that rides on an electrically conductive strip, and this strip gets worn out over time, and doesn't send a good signal to the ECU (computer).
Hope that helps.....
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