I have a 2003 montero sport and the breaks are not bleeding right. I have blead them until the fluid is clear and the breaks are still spongy going to the floor board. Any thoughts?

Have someone pump the pedal 5-6 times then hold the pedal to the floor while you loosen the line nut a crack until air or fluid comes out, repeat this process until clear brake fluid comes out. If the pedal feels good at this time put it in neutral then start the vehicle and try shifting, if OK your done, if it feels spongy repeat the process with the clutch slave cylinder line until it feels good, if it's still spongy there's a bleeder on the slave cylinder so repeat the process until the pedal feels good. I hope this helps. Take care.

On these old manual brake systems without automatic adjusters you have to set the shoe clearance by turning the adjuster on each shoe out so the shoe is very close to the drum. If there is too much clearance between the shoe and drum the shoe will move as far as it can and never touch the drum, this will make a low or no pedal pressure.

Hi there,

The pads are easy to change. You do not need any special tools. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4.

One last tip. When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

This is how to get it done:

• Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important). Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw.
• Install new pad and caliper
• Bleed again. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.

Glad to be of help!!!

Check your parking brake. if it goes down to the floor or does not hold, then your back brakes needs adjusted. bad master cylinders bleed off slowly to the floor while pushing on the brake pedal. If you need assistance on adjusting let me know.
Randy

PRe bleed the master cylinder, using a kit that hooks up to the brake lines connection and the other end goes into the fluid reservoir. Bleed until no bubbles. then reinstall brake lines, one at a time, and then continue bleeding the system. DO NOT let the fluid run low in M/C or start all over again. Kit can be purchased at after market parts stores.

bleed one more time. occasionally when bleeding an air bubble will move in the line and you need to crack each bleeder three times while helper holds foot down on pedal.

do you mean that you pump the brakes to build up pressure in order to stop?

bleeding brakes requires you to bleed them from each wheel starting at the right rear. procede as follows: have someone sit in the drivers seat. have them pump the brakes slowly and forceably to build up pressure. maintain force on the pedal. starting at the right rear, open the bleed screw slowly. the pedal will go to the floor and the fluid will drain. hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the bleed screw. repeat this procedure several times until you are sure there is no air in the line. follow these steps at each wheel- left rear, right front, left front. keep reservoir filled with fluid. fill after each wheel. (note) get a length of rubber hose that fits snuggly over the end of the bleed screw
and drain fluid into a container.

i think you were draining the anti-lock brake system. in which, case follow the steps above for that also.

The reason for spongy breaks is because there is an air pcket tuck somewhere in the system. you will need to blead all the lines. start from the passengers rear thank go to the drivers rear than the passangers front than the drivers front. You need to kep fluid in the resivour while doing this. and you will need to look for a steady stream of brake fluid before closing the bleader valve or yo will not get the air pcket out of the line.

what kind of vehicle?? wheel cylinder maybe, ... look in side rim for fluid... does new master loose fluid?? did you bleed brakes after new master install???

You will need to bleed all four corners, starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Your bleed procedure always goes from the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, to the closest. By bleeding only the rear brakes, you've gotten air out back there, but not necessarily any air that might have moved farther forward. Bleed your rears again, and then move forward to bleed the fronts, and see if that helps.