When the car stops driving,
at that time check the starter, if its got very hot, then this can be starter
over heating issue. There are many other things to be checked. Try this troubleshooting:
----If your engine cranks normally but
will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because
it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following: 1)
A bad pickup inside the distributor, a stripped distributor drive gear (common
problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires
from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM. 2) A bad crankshaft position (CKP)
sensor or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM. 3) A bad ignition module or A bad ignition coil . 4)
A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the
spark to short to ground). 5) Faulty ignition
switch. ------------ You
can also do a test to confirm the problem .The procedure to do the test is as
follows: -- If
your engine has spark plug wires, disconnect one of the plug wires from a spark
plug and place the end of the wire near a metal surface on the engine. Then
insert a small Phillips screwdriver into the end of the wire (the plug boot),
or a small bolt or nail to provide a conductive path. Then crank the engine and
look for a spark to jump from the screwdriver, bolt or nail in the end of the
plug wire to the engine. If you do not see a spark, there is an ignition
problem. OR---If your engine
has a coil-on-plug ignition system with no plug wires, In that case remove
one of the coils from the spark plug and insert an old spark plug, a spark plug
tester or a screwdriver into the end of the coil. Ground the spark plug or plug
tester to the engine, then crank the engine and look for a spark. No spark
indicates an ignition problem. Possibilities to be checked in this problem are
as follows:-- If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil
positive terminal when the ignition key is on. If NO voltage, then problem is
on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or
primary wiring circuit).But If there is NO voltage at the coil itself, then in
that case the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition
wiring circuit). But if the coil has
voltage, then problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to
the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon
tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor. ------A car that cranks over
but doesn't start, in many cases will be due to a bad fuel pump, a broken
timing belt, an inoperative cam sensor or crank sensor. Also these problems are
related to faulty spark plug. Check the spark at spark plugs when you start the
car. Do you notice any spark. Actually you should see. If in case there is no
spark then it's a spark plug problem. Also the coil pack gives power to spark
plug. So check the voltage at coil pack. It will show 12 volt. If there is no
voltage noticed at coil pack then its faulty coil pack that has to be replaced.
If all the possible options checked out ok then check the car starter. The
starter gets power from battery to start the car. If the starter is faulty then
it will not let the car to start. Also check and confirm that there is fuel in
the car. If its very low fuel then in some cases this causes the problem. Also
check and confirm that fuel pump is functioning properly and the fuel filter is
not clogged. One of the easiest ways to check for a fuel pump related problem
is to spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while trying to start
the car. If the car starts momentarily, then there's a good chance the fuel
pump is not working or the car is out of gas. You can also listen for the fuel
pump's humming sound when the key is first turned on. Also if a inoperative
fuel pump is suspected, a good technician will always check to verify there is
power and ground being supplied to the pump, to eliminate the possibility of a
bad relay or electrical issue. Fuel pressure can be checked with a pressure
gauge and if there is pressure, pulse can be checked at the fuel injectors in
several ways including the most common, with the use of noid lights. If the
injectors don't have pulse the engine won't start.---------- This
troubleshooting tips will help you to solve the problem. Thanks. Helpmech.
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My text was messed up in the question,; what I was trying to say is that I had to bend the EGR tube up slightly so it would meet the fitting on the exhaust header, which was positioned a bit differently from the original manifold
Well, I do smell fuel, which makes me believe it's not a fuel issue.
And one thing I completely forgot to mention is that when the engine died on the freeway, the tach fell to zero. This is while the engine was turning at about 3000 RPM. (Manual Transmission).
How can this happen, except in a case where the ignition impulse is gone? Just a conjecture, and this is why I believe the fault MUST lie in the distributor. How do I troubleshoot this?
The distributor comes with a heat shield attached to it, which is supposed to protect it from the intense heat at the manifold. What bothers me is that this will be distributor #4 in this car.
Does this California exhaust header, which is made from welded steel tubing, dissipate heat as well as the original manifold, which is cast iron? If not, might this be what is happening, that the module is fried from its proximity to the exhaust manifold? ( The distributor on this engine is snuggled up really close to the exhaust manifold). Just a thought.
Today, I drove down to my Town Center to the store, then on the way back the car died and now won't start at all.
You know, I just have to believe it's in the distributor somewhere, which means I have to replace that--again.
If anyone believes that I'm wrong about this, please let me know.
Thank You!
The trouble with testing to find where the fault lies is that the fault condition has to exist at the time you're trying to diagnose it. If the car dies, then starts back up 1/2 hour later, you cannot diagnose it-- that is, unless the ECU pops up a code, which mine did not, as I said before.
Anyway, this nis why I'm just guessing, because guessing is all I can do...
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