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Assuming it is an in-tank fuel pump, the fact there are three wires would suggest it is a combined pump and fuel gauge sender. 8.6 volts between the fuel gauge wire and ground is a realistic figure but is insufficient to operate the fuel pump.
The fuel pump needs a good ground and a feed of 12 volts but for safety reasons power is only supplied to the pump during cranking and when the engine is running. The pump of some cars does run for about 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on.
Unless the fuel pump relay is removed and the terminals are bridged so a constant supply of power is provided at the pump it is very difficult to check the voltage.
It is relatively easy to test the pump by connecting it directly to a known good battery, taking all appropriate safety precautions.
If the pump tests ok the fault is possibly the relay, wiring or connections or perhaps the fuse.
It would be a good plan to check the fuse first.
Have you tried resetting the Inertia switch? This switch will cut off power to the fuel pump. It is usually behind one of the kick-panels. It is a safety switch and has a reset button on it. It can trip by mistake when you shut a door or make any impact motion. It is suppose to prevent gas fires in an accident.
You say the fuses and relays are good. I'm showing three wires for the relay. One lite blue and orange is battery voltage from the fuse. The other lite blue and orange is ground from the computer. When the computer grounds the relay voltage should be sent to the inertia switch on the dark green yellow wire. You should be able to jumper the power and dark green yellow to make the pump run.
Have you checked both fuses? If I recall correctly there is one in the passenger compartment, as well as the engine compartment. Try replacing the fuel pump relay, while you're in there.
Hello, There is a fuel pump Relay in the Powerbox under the hood. The system works this way. When you turn on the Ignition switch, it trips the Fuel pump Relay. The power is routed to the fuse from the Relay and then to the Inertia (safety) cutoff switch. Finally the power reaches the Fuel pump.
You need to test the fuse holder for power before it flows through the fuse. You should have the Ignition on, in order for the Fuel pump Relay to provide power to the fuse. Although the fuse may be good, it can not work without power.
On most Models, the horn Relay is the same part as the Relay on the Fuel pump. Just check your part numbers and swap out the two parts and see if it helps.
Hello abzalkhan193
Heres a few things to check that could cut power to the fuel pump. The fuel pump inertia shutoff sw
in the trunk on the left side, there is a reset button on the switch if you push the button down and
you hear/feel a click then the switch was tripped and you just reset it. The switch's job is to cut off
the fuel in case of an accident. Next, the fuel pump fuse located in the battery fuse block under the
hood on the right fender well, fuse #1 20amp fuse. Next, the fuel pump relay, the relay is located in
relay center on the left fender well. Hope this is helpful.
Check connection at oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch is also a safety device that shuts off power to fuel pump incase if accident or rollover, Shut's fuel pump down when little to no oil pressure. If connection looks good, just replace oil pressure switch - they're inexpensive.
My fuel pump on my 1998 Lincoln Continental has no power. I checked the fuse it is good. I checked the fuel shutoff switch it was fine. I have traced the wire from the fuel shutoff switch to the fuel module driver in the trunk. The wire has power. I have also traced the positve wire from the fuel pump to the fuel driver on a different terminal, this wire has no power from the pump. I also changed the fuel driver, the low fuel pressure switch, the alternator, and battery.does anyone have any suggestion's?
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