I have a 92 ford f150 i need to take the pilot bearing out of the flywheel, but it is siezed and i cant get the flywheel bolts out what do i do?

Intake torque specs ' FordForumsOnline.com

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May 7, 2010 - 2 posts - ‎2 authors
ISO torque specs for the intake & plenum for a 98 Windstar...3.8 with the ... Our community is here to help you with any questions you have related to your Ford. ... Lower Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt 8-12 - (71-106).

Torque Specifications - AutoZone

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AutoZoneAutoZone Repair Guide for your 2004 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD 2.3L MFI DOHC 4cyl Engine Mechanical Specifications Torque Specifications. ... Ford Windstar 1999-2003 ... Bolts, Main Bearing Bolts, Rod Brearing Bolts, Crankshaft Damper Bolts, Flywheel Bolts, Manifold. Intake, Exhaust ... Vehicle: 2008 Ford F150, 98 Civic.

Pull drive shaft 4 bolts next pull transmission cross member 4 bolts pull transmission lines 2 pull all wiring 2 pull transmission inspection cover 4 bolts pull transmission 6 bolts pull flywheel 6 bolts install new and reverse process

You'll have to obtain a clutch disc alignment tool (pilot shaft).
Loosen the flywheel bolts just enough to move the clutch disc around slightly then, insert the alignment tool until the small end slides into the pilot bearing in the flywheel. It should be a firm fit, enough to hold the disc in place so you can re-tighten the flywheel bolts. Once tightened, pull the alignment tool out and carefully install the transmission. Good luck!!

The pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel and you need a pilot bearing/bushing puller. Some A/P stores will rent it to you for free (deposit). the throwout bearing is held onto the clutch fork normally by clips. Sometimes you have to take the "fork" out to get the bearing off.

Make sure to note how "deep' the pilot bearing/bushing is so that when you install the new one it is set at the right depth.

The first thing to do is to have the flywheel re-surfaced because a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to chatter or shudder when you let up the clutch pedal, and also be certain that the pilot bearing is replaced, it can be difficult to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft and you will most likely need to obtain a good pilot bearing puller to remove it.

Clean the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block while the flywheel is being re-surfaced, and be sure that all of the old clutch material and dust has been cleaned from the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block, and contamination from an old clutch disk will lead to early clutch failure.

After the flywheel has been installed and torqued down, then you will need to mount the clutch disk and the pressure-plate assembly together onto the flywheel, and be sure that the clutch disk is facing the right way (usually the spring hub will go towards the pressure-plate assembly), and then start to install the pressure-plate assembly bolts but only hand tighten them for now. After the bolts have been started then use the clutch disk alignment tool that should have come with the clutch kit to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, and when you have it aligned so that the alignment tool easily slips through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then tighten down the bolts to the pressure-plate assembly one turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the pressure-plate assembly is flush with the flywheel and then you can torque down the pressure-plate assembly bolts. This is a critical step and the better aligned that you get the disk and pilot bearing, and the easier it is to remove and replace the alignment tool, the easier it will be to install the transmission, and the transmission input shaft should slip smoothly through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing and not have any difficulties mounting up to the engine, and if the transmission hangs up when you are installing it and and the transmission input shaft does not go straight in through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, it can damage the clutch hub and the clutch will chatter or shudder when you let the clutch pedal up, and it will shorten the life of the clutch.

After the clutch has been aligned then install the throw-out/release bearing onto the transmission input shaft collar and the throw-out/release bearing fork, and use a lithium based grease on the pivot points of the throw-out/release bearing fork and where the fork contacts the throw-out/release bearing, and if it did not come greased, then lightly grease the inside of the throw-out/release bearing with a lithium based grease and do not over do it on the grease, you want just enough grease to keep the throw-out bearing and the input shaft collar lubricated but still have a smooth operation to it, and you do not want to damage the clutch from oil or grease contamination as this will cause the new clutch disk to slip.

The transmission can now be installed into the vehicle and be careful not to hang the transmission input shaft on the clutch disk or the clutch disk will be damaged. I hope that this information will help you to replace that clutch with a proper quality repair that you will get the most out of.

You will take old parts in so no need to know ahead of time what size.
Basically clutch sandwiched between engine and transmission.
Transmission usually easiest to remove.
Drive shaft first.
If starter on tranny, then remove batter cable.
Sometimes ground strap.
Speedo cable, backup lights cable, etc.
Small bolts on bottom plate.
Support transmission and engine separately.
Some trucks have removable tunnel cover, which makes it much easier.
6 large bolts between engine and bellhouseing.
Lower transmission and back of engine only enough so you can slde transmission back.
Then slide it back out of engine and clutch.
Usually about 6 inches or less.
Then get it out of the way.
About 10 bolts on pressure plate.
Do diagonally and in steps.
Friction disk sandwiched between pressure plate and flywheel, will just fall out.
Throw out bearing is on fork back in bellhousing of tranny.

Check pilot busing in center of flywheel.
Supports tranny shaft, so must be good, well greased, no rust, no binding.

Install is reverse of procedure, except you need to hold the friction disk in center, while tightening pressure plate. They sell a cheap plastice stub shaft substitute that you can buy or improvise. But important, because you will be trying to get that heavy transmission with long imput shaft back through the fiction disk hub and into pilot busing. Alignment is critical. Sometimes turing engine helps.
Extra long bolts temporarity, also helps. A little rocking and shoving. Constantly compare gap on bottom and top of bellhousing to engine.
When it slides in, youwll know, and an bolt it back up. But don't try to just force it.
Also don't over tighern pressure plate bolts, because they are small. Use torque wrench.

1991-96 Models
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the transaxle assembly.
4. If the clutch assembly is to be reused, matchmark the pressure plate and the flywheel so they can be assembled in the same position.
5. Install flywheel holding tool T84P-6375-A or equivalent, in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine and engage the tooth of the holding tool into the flywheel ring gear.

Fig. Fig. 1: Install a flywheel holding tool in a transaxle mounting hole on the engine, and engage the tooth of the tool into the flywheel ring gear

1. Loosen the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time, in a crisscross pattern, until the spring tension is relieved, to prevent pressure plate cover distortion.
2. Support the pressure plate and unfasten the retaining bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.

If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.

1. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing, pilot bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as needed.

To install:

1. If removed, install a new pilot bearing using a suitable installation tool.
2. If removed, install the flywheel. Make sure the flywheel and crankshaft flange mating surfaces are clean. Tighten the flywheel retaining bolts to 71-76 ft. lbs. (96-103 Nm) on the 1.8L engine or 54-67 ft. lbs. (73-91 Nm) on the 1.9L engine.
3. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool. If the clutch assembly is being reused, align the matchmarks that were made during the removal procedure.
4. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts in the correct sequence to 13-20 ft. lbs. (18-26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.

Fig. Fig. 2: Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position and support them with a clutch aligning tool


Fig. Fig. 3: Tighten the pressure plate-to-flywheel retaining bolts to specification in the sequence illustrated

1. If the release bearing was removed, lubricate the release fork where it contacts the bearing and install the bearing in the fork.
2. Install the transaxle assembly.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Bleed the hydraulic clutch system, if needed.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.
6. Road test the vehicle and check the clutch for proper operation.

Hope this helps. Best of luck to you!
Greg

Removal & Installation

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
3. Remove the transaxle.
   
4. Gradually loosen the clutch pressure plate bolts, in a crisscross pattern. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
   
5. Inspect the pilot bearing. If it is worn or damaged and does not turn easily by hand, remove it using a puller/slide hammer.
   
6. Check the flywheel surface for scoring, cracks or burning and machine or replace, as necessary.
   
7. Install a flywheel holder to keep the flywheel from turning. Loosen the flywheel bolts evenly and gradually in a crisscross pattern. Remove the flywheel.
   
8. Inspect the clutch release bearing for wear. Replace it if it sticks or does not turn easily.
   
9. Inspect the release fork for wear or damage and replace as necessary.
   

To install: Structural view of the hydraulic clutch system
Exploded view of the clutch assembly
Click to Enlarge Flywheel tightening sequence
Pressure plate tightening sequence

1. Lubricate the release fork fingers and pivot with molybdenum grease and install in the release fork boot.
   
2. Install the clutch release bearing on the release fork.
   
3. Install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel, if removed.
   
4. Be sure the flywheel mounting surface and the crankshaft or eccentric shaft mounting surfaces are clean. Remove any old sealant from the flywheel bolt hole threads and the flywheel bolts.
   
5. Install the flywheel.
   
6. Apply sealant to the flywheel bolt threads and install them hand-tight. Install the flywheel holding tool. Tighten the bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to 71–76 ft. lbs. (96–103 Nm).
   
7. Apply a small amount of molybdenum grease to the clutch disc splines and install the clutch disc on the flywheel, spring side toward the transaxle. Install a suitable alignment tool in the pilot bearing to position the clutch disc.
   
8. Install the clutch pressure plate, aligning the dowel holes with the flywheel dowels.
   
9. Install the pressure plate bolts and gradually tighten, in a crisscross pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
   
10. Install the transaxle.
    

Transmission

One thing you may want to try especially if you don't have a heated garage is a bottle of Bar's leak rear main sealer. I had a leak big enough to cause my clutch to slip and it worked for me. I figure in the spring I'll replace the seal, maybe.