1989 Chevy K2500 350 will not restart after warmed up? I have replaced Heads, reset timing 0 TDC new plugs, coil, cap, button, module and pick up coil. Engine starts cold runs great but will not restart after warmed up!

You need to run a fault code test on the computer control module. To learn how go here. The code lists are there as well.

The distributor does have to be removed and dis-assembled in order to replace the ignition pick-up coil/stator, and if the pick-up coil/stator is faulty then the distributor should be replaced because the distributor will come with a new pick-up coil/stator and the old distributor will have to be removed anyway and in the long run it will actually save money from not having to pay a mechanic to remove and dis-assemble the distributor to replace the pick-up coil/stator, however most of the time it is the ignition module inside of the distributor that is faulty.




When the engine is at TDC (Top Dead Center) is the ignition rotor pointing to the #1 position on the distributor housing as described below?



The engine should be set on TDC (Top Dead Center) with the distributor cap removed, and there is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on top dead center. (Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing)

This static timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at top dead center.



If the engine is at TDC and the ignition rotor does not point to the #1 mark on the distributor housing, then loosen the hold down bolt to the distributor and turn the distributor until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor and then tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

Hi, I believe there is a computer problem. If possible check codes for no start condition. if you know the no.#1 cylinder at TDC (Top Dead Center) on engine then you will know no#1 distributor is. Good luck.

Sounds like ignition control module (small plastic piece in bottom of distributor). When it gets warm it's shorting out. Easy fix, disconnect battery, pull cap & rotor - gin module is 2 screws in bottom of distributor and 4 wires - replace wires in exact order and coat bottom of middle with dielectric grease, replace rotor, cap & connect battery NEGATIVE CABLE LAST!

without looking at it i can only guess. Sounds like you need a new distributor cap and rotor arm. Hope this helps...

sounds like timing is a little late. try a SLIGHT advancement (1-2 degrees) of the timing. keep trying until idle smooths out, listen for pinging on a steep hill in top gear. if engine pings at all other than at full throttle, timing is too far advanced. hope this helps. good luck.

Check your fuses (ECM) and also recheck your wire leads to the coil. Your ICM (ignition control Module) may also be bad, it's located in your distributor under the rotor. You can have that tested also to make sure it's working 100%, there common to go bad from corrosion caused by condensation under the distributor cap.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.

The most common problem that causes this that i can think of is a detective pick-up coil in the distributor.Remove the cap and rotor button and then the plate that is under where the rotor button was,there you will find the pick-up coil and the reluctor wheel that makes it work.These will go open when warm periodically and can easily be overlooked,the ignition coil could also be the problem as well as the ignition module but the pick-up is the most common.

Have u changed out ur Ignition module ? Needle nose pliers to take off retainer clip.Detach negative battery terminal,remove Dist cap nd rotor. Detach pick up coil leads from module.

Yes those are the next step, especially the coil.