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you need to use a scanner to clear the codes, go to pep boys or auto zone, they will do it for you usually free of charge but if after they are cleared by the scanner and still come up you may have a serious engine or tranny problem. good luck
Anyone with a scanner can erase the codes and reset the light. On older cars, you could just remove the negative battery post for a few minutes, but that is not recommended for newer cars. Erase codes with a scanner.
following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any
electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.
engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only
for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the
transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in
most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory
of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as
the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done
is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system
for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for
engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained
technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then
based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the
correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer
replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other
basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with
the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine.
The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear
engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related
NEED HAVE VECHICLE CODE SCANNED FIRST LOOK FOR FAULT CODES MANY THINGS WILL CAUSE NO STARTING,LIKE BAD CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR.FAULTY CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR,BAD SPARK PLUGS FOULED OUT BY FLOODING ENGINE DUE TO LEAKING FUEL INJECTORS,BAD ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR,BAD MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR.FAULTY ECM. CODE SCAN VECHICLE FIRST.IF NO FAULT CODES CAME UP YOU COULD HAVE FAULT IN FUEL SYSTEM, COULD HAVE STOPPED UP FUEL FILTER,BAD FUEL PUMP RELAY OR FUSE THE FUEL PUMP COULD BE FAULTY. TURN IGNITION SWITCH TO ON POSITION LISTEN FOR FUEL PUMP OPERATION IN FUEL TANK, YOU SHOULD HEAR FUEL PUMP RUN FOR FEW SECONDS THEN TURN OFF.IF NO FUEL PUMP BAD MORE LIKELY BUT CHECK FUSE AND RELAY FIRST BEFORE BUYING NEW FUEL PUMP.DONT BUY NEW PARTS HAVE VECHICLE CODE SCANNED FIRST USING DIAGNOSTIC SCANNER YOU COULD HAVE BAD CONTAMINATED FUEL.
HI there....Check to see if the code reader is a CAN OBD 2 code reader. If it is only OBD2 , that may be the problem. In 2003 Some vehicle manufacturers ( ford,Gm,Mazda and Saab) began using a new computer protocol called Controller Area Network (CAN) with the OBD2 and if your vehicle is CAN OBD 2 the simple OBD2 code reader will not work.Contact your local dealer to determine if you vehicle is CAN or not or find a code reader that is CAN OBD2 capable. Hope this helps you out
I just had this same problem yesterday, thouh I have a 98 A6 2.8 . With mine. The engine was sending air flow metering fault codes to the ecm. Then the electronics in the transmission reads the codes then puts the transmission into 'limp mode'. The tiptronic didn't work, All the gear selection lights on the dash display stayed lit. And when the car is shut down and restarted, If you try to drive it, the vehicle stays in third gear. This has happened twice in the life of the car.
You could always take it to a dealer where they'll help you unload some piles of cash the 401k plans didn't take. But I would start by taking a personal hand held scanner and make a log of the stored codes. Then, with the scanner you can reset and delete these codes. Then as with mine. All your problems go away. If they come back, at that point visit you local dealer.